Crank Pulley removal in an Auto?

M

Mancdelica

Member
Hi there,

Ive been trying to change my water pump on my 93' 2.5TD. I cant believe there is one bolt left in the water pump, which is behind the lower timing belt cover, which is behind the crank pulley?!? All I have read is that this all must come off to get at the last bolt in the WP.

Ive taken pulleys off in manuals where you engage the gear, apply break, drop the car and give it a good old swing on a breaker bar.

How do I stop the engine rotating in an automatic? I can't engage the gears unless the engine is running right?

All the solutions ive been seeing is air socket guns (which I don't have access too nor compressed air) or the old start the starter motor trick of a quick start, but shut off before the engine fires up with a breaker bar resting against the N/S engine bay, which will intern unscrew the bolt. (in theory) is that really the only two methods or is there a safer way to stop the engine rotating (and not turn it on), whilst i get a huge breaker on it and hang off it etc.

Any help much appreciated.

First post also so hello everyone in the community.

Matt
 

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If you don't have access to an impact wrench (whether air or elec) you could always pull the starter & make a simple tool to keep the flexplate from turning.
 
Thanks for the reply. what would that entail?
removing the motor and then just wedging something in that will hold.
Im guessing there is no way of holding it in gear mechanically without having the engine on?
 
If you disconnect the wire to the IP shutoff valve the engine cannot start (no fuel) and the bump method works fine. When I did it I jammed the breaker bar against the ground rather than something in the engine bay.

I think you should be able to access/jam the flexplate with a screwdriver through the lower access plate on the front of the bellhousing. I've done that before with other vehicles...
 
sk66 said:
If you disconnect the wire to the IP shutoff valve the engine cannot start (no fuel) and the bump method works fine. When I did it I jammed the breaker bar against the ground rather than something in the engine bay.

I think you should be able to access/jam the flexplate with a screwdriver through the lower access plate on the front of the bellhousing. I've done that before with other vehicles...
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I large Allen key wedges in the flex plate works well but is easier with two people. The bump method is also fairly reliable Just be sure your wrench is wedged very firmly.
 
^What he says, use an allen key in the ring gear teeth, the angles are just right to mesh with the teeth and it'll lock itself in the angle between the bellhousing and... you know what, I have a photo around here somewhere...


20160420_124355.jpg

Also works for re-tightening the bolt (unlike the "crank the starter" method).

You'll likely need a puller for the pulley itself. Don't use a 3-jaw puller as it's a 2-piece pulley, the outer belt groove/weight section is only attached to the centre with rubber, and a 3-jaw puller can tear the rubber. Instead use the threaded holes in the centre of the pulley, a metal plate over the top, and the crank nut itself as a puller: unwind crank nut, pulley comes off.


20160420_131048.jpg
 
Awesome guys. Thank you so much for the replies. Those pictures as well are very helpful!
I'll be giving it a bash this weekend and it hopefully works.

I like the technique for pulling the crank. Im sure after 29 years and maybe never been off it will need something to remove.

Also am i wrong or correct in thinking that this part won't effect the timing. Ive seen the timing marks though on the timing cover near the pulley. I'm thinking timing only is affected when you remove the toothed crank sprocket behind it, and it will have a sprocket key in it so everything stays in its place once the crank pulley is removed? or have i got this wrong?

All of this is just to get to the last water pump bolt out, behind the plastic timing cover. Ive read people removed it without doing all this but i cant see how? any one been there before. ?

Thanks again
 
The timing won't change from just removing the crank pulley.

I've never figured out how to get that last bolt out. Maybe if you bent/damaged the timing cover? But then it would still be tricky to get the torque wrench in there for reassembly.
 
Awesome thank you so much for your help. Really helpful and good to know what im doing is the right way to go about it.

I'll keep you posted when she's up and running and not overheating.......hopefully....
 
So growler I take it you had the van on ramps or jacked up to get the inspection plate off? Ive loved the fact whilst working on this van you can do most job with it on the ground and crawl under. But this looks like a right ball ache to remove.

So I decided to go with the sk66 advice of removing the IP cut off switch. Which wiring harness do I need to remove as there seems to be a few? Im just paranoid I disconnect the wrong thing and it still being able to fire up.

Also whilst I was looking around the fuel pump I came across this wire just hanging about. Any ideas where this guy is meant to be attached too. Its coming from loom just above the pump.

Thanks
 

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To disable the injection pump, unplug the square connector on top of the IP. Screen Shot 2020-11-15 at 13.06.02.png

Pay attention to the wires going into that square connector though, they get brittle with heat and vibration.

Those wires might be the fuel filter water sensor, they connect to the white plastic part on the bottom of the filter.

The inspection plate's pretty easy to get at, at least on my van:
PXL_20201115_001104566.jpg

To remove, undo these two bolts and the two on the other side. Easy access if you approach it from behind the front wheels.
 
Awesome thanks again for the pictures and information. I went with unhooking the IP switch as shown in the end.
Crank pully came off with the slightest of cranks from the starter. Then the pully almost fell into my hand which was a nice relief.

Then I found the WP bypass pipe had been just hanging in was completely corroded at the end.
Now I must wait for that part to arrive from Japan...

This van is the gift that just keeps on giving. I'll drive it one day....

Thanks again for all the help. much appreciated
 
Oh and what a lovely clean underside of your van you have growler.

The main reason I didn't go there with he inspection plate technique was the sheer amount of oil covering it. Pretty substantial leak coming from the back of the block somewhere but that one is a job for the summer...
 
I think the reason most people use the Allen key on the torque converter is because the torque on the crank pulley bolt is super high and that is the only way of holding it.
 
Mancdelica said:
Oh and what a lovely clean underside of your van you have growler.

The main reason I didn't go there with he inspection plate technique was the sheer amount of oil covering it. Pretty substantial leak coming from the back of the block somewhere but that one is a job for the summer...
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LOL! Once you've finished repairing all the issues I'm sure your engine will be nice and clean too :)
 
Jesus that was oily. Went with that Alan key technique and it worked a treat. thanks for the tip growler. Cleaned up the inspection plate from 100% black to silver again ha!

Just thought id jump back on this thread as now im lost with my water pump pulley bolts. I was pretty carful putting everything that came out into tagged pots. But I have 3 standard sized ones and one slightly larger one? Cant see anything online or on Amayna to show what size is correct all the way round. Any one remember or have any pics of them or a screen shot of a manual with dimensions?

The four for the actual fan look exactly the same which is the next bit to go on.
 

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Ok ignore me I’ve just realised the bolts I’m taking about are the fan ones and these badgers are for the crank pulley. Hmmm now I wish I paid more attention and noted where the big one came from. Trial and error I guess ‍ ...
 
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