Recent content by Fdlplyr32

.3 to .4 mm

In my opinion you are good, if the idle setting on the spindle is the same as factory. Weird that both the idle setting and the A/C idle diaphragm arm are both different from what I have. For the diaphragm arm, at idle when my A/C kicks in it draws back and pulls the throttle bringing up the...

Do you have access to the old IP for a visual comparison? If the old was left at idle when removing the arm you may be able to see something.

I pulled it straight up when removing and put it straight down when inserting in the new IP. I observed that both IP had the same setting, the shaft position was exactly the same. The painted line on the shaft was definitely aligned the same. I inserted the new arm on the shaft and it seated...

I forgot to mention, I didn't have to make any adjustment at all when reassembling, to the Hyundai adjustment. When I inserted the arm on the new shaft/splines it lined up perfectly with the oem adjustment. The odd of that seem small. Actually when I compared the old IP shaft position to the...

I'm assuming that you pulled the arm sleight up and off the shaft? Is that scratch mark your alignment mark you made before removing?

I guess thread counting is easiest...

Maybe I can find a measurement for you on my factory setting?

I think the point here is I chose NOT to use the original Mitsubishi idle screw and bracket and instead just used the Hyundai OEM. Yes, it is harder to reach, but I have not had to make any adjustments since the installation.

I'm trying to understand your issue, here are some photos of my installation. I did not use the two holes, which didn't have threads, to mount. I didn't have clearance issues. I didn't have to hack or modify anything.

Not sure about a manual, on an automatic there is an inspection cover at the bottom of the bell housing which allows for the insertion of an Allen wrench between the teeth of the wheel and housing, swap sides between bolt loosening and tightening.

I was able to remove mine easily and start the nuts without having to compress the springs. They don't compress until you are well onto the studs.

Have you considered converting it to a pop-up camper? Not that I have special insight on it, but wondering if repairs are not easy on the roof maybe it's a candidate?

Apparently some run the turbo with just oil lubrication and it was an option. I purchased a new turbo at one point from Risin Sun, not specifying the original head had the cooling port, they sent me a new turbo with the coolant ports available but not required to be used. I wanted that...

You should move the fitting to the new head or you won't have liquid cooling on the turbo. I had a machine shop do it for me. Yes it is pressed in. They had no issues reusing it.