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So my new radiator doesn't quite fit. It fits better without the rubber grommets on bottom, but I assume they're there for a reason. With them on it rad sits too high to line up with the bracket. See pic one. It also sits slightly forward. Without the rubbers, I can force it to line up with the...

In the home stretch of the engine swap. I'm pretty sure this is right but always like to get second opinion.

Funny enough one of the other loose connectors looks like it could fit the that. Unfortunately, I don't have the karaoke machine.

Yeah, I have the temp sensor on the steering column and the one in the headlight recess. Someone had a duo pod on hand and it's connector was a t-connector. When I get everything hooked back up, I guess I'll run a multimeter to it to see if it has any voltage. There's so many mysterious...

That was my first thought, that maybe it was for the two pod, instead of the triple. The triple had a ten slot connector. I had always assumed my 92 exceed came with the triple but maybe it came with a two originally.

Should have mentioned, the stereo connectors are accounted for

Anyone happen to know what this connector might be? Blue and blue/white are the two colors.

I switched them out. Yeah, it was just a spacer. But I switched them back, cuz I'm just gonna use the original idle screw. Using the old would force me to tap the holes on the IP and come from the bottom which, now that the engine is in, is impossible. Any idea what that banjo's torque might...

What's the distance between those two in your first pic?

Besides the position shown in pic 1, the only other position (that isn't radically off) is with the idle screw backed all the way off. I'm going to assume the position shown is correct, since the notch in the spindle directly aligns with the factory notch in the arm. And if memory serves my idle...

Naw. That scratch is just a scratch. Maybe from previous owner. You pulled it straight up. Spline is sitting where it was originally

The two positions I can get it to sit seem radically off. As long as that spline is facing the way it was originally, does it matter if I have to extend the screw to meet the arm?

I'm trying to use the the idle screw from the 4D56, but it mounts from underneath, which without tapping the holes on the new IP can't be done without some nuts, but with the nuts sitting on top the accelerator linkage sits to high. And if I try to mount the screw bracket on top, same issue...

Yeah, essentially the new fuel line needs to be lower (moving it forward or back wouldn't make a difference) the old one sat more flush. it's that middle bit on the new one I need gone. And I'm honestly unsure if that's an "ok thing to do" Like does it screw up things if I remove that spacer (or...

The other problem that arises, even if I were to mod the idle screw bracket, it seems the cable attach loop would still prevent it from seating down far enough to meet the spline bit.

So on the old IP the the bracket attached to the bottom. And with that the arm lines up on the old IP. But on the new one the only option is top mount on top because that line there won't allow bottom mounting (last pic doesn't show it, the bracket isn't level). The holes are the same distance...

So a new problem has come up. Turns out my accelerator arm (?) and idle screw bracket are way different than the ones in @Growlerbearnz how to. The way the D4BF is configured won't allow my old stuff to work. My idle screw bracket has a rise in it, since it was originally attached on the bottom...

When switching over the idle speed screw and bracket, it seems I need to either tap the holes (or get nuts) on the bracket and get longer screws...? The screws from the 4d56 aren't long enough and had threaded holes to go into.

Thanks, SK, I figured it didn't matter much, but was nervous enough about screwing up a brand new engine, I had to ask