Air adjustable rear shock absorbers (Monroe MA708)

Growlerbearnz

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The rear springs on my Delica have sagged (as they all do) to the point where they were sitting on the overload leaves, which makes the ride quite harsh.

I've tried adding a leaf which made the ride smooth again when loaded, but it also raised the rear too far when the van was empty. ("Too far" meaning it wouldn't fit through the garage door without letting all the air out of the tyres).

So I've removed the add-a-leafs and gone for an old-school solution- air adjustable shock absorbers.

Monroe MA708.
MA708.JPG


US$70 from Amazon.

Allegedly the same compressed and extended length as my Pro-Comp 919520's but I think they're measuring from different points, because these clearly have a *lot* more droop than the Pro-Comps. They're also slightly longer when compressed, presumably because they have internal bump stops, but by my measurements they shouldn't bottom out (and the internal bump stops should prevent any damage if they do).
MonroeMA708.JPG


They require a touch of modification. Remove the upper pin mount:
MonroePin.jpg


...and install the top bush from your old shocks (if it's removable. OEM shocks might have bonded-in top bushes, so you'll have to source something to suit):
MonroeFixed.JPG

Then you get excited and install them without taking any further photos. Sorry.

----IMPORTANT UPDATE----
I've had a couple of reports of the lower pin shearing off, like so:
Borked.jpg


Borked2.jpg


It seems to be due to overtightening the lower pin and/or using old, hardened, crushed bushes:
tootoght.jpg


The pin needs to be able to tilt in the bracket. You should use the nice new bushes that came with the shocks, and tighten the nut until there are 2-3 threads showing past the nut. The nut isn't a self-locking type, which is a bit cheap, so I used Loctite to ensure the nut won't come off:
ShockLower.jpg

Note that the top bush looks more compressed than the lower one- that's because there's 40psi of pressure in the shock pushing it down. Before I pumped the shocks up the bushes were evenly compressed.

Caution #2: The top mount might need a washer to space the shock body away from the chassis rail. The shock absorber body should not touch the chassis rail. A couple of millimetres clearance is fine.

66E2D980-3361-4592-94EA-EDCFC496C343.jpg

And now, back to your regularly scheduled enthusiasm:

They work brilliantly so far. Just 30psi brings the rear end back up to standard height, lifting the tired springs off the overload leaves, and restores the smooth ride. With the caravan hitched up and a bunch of junk in the van it required 70psi to come back to standard ride height, and it tows without any wallow or pitching.

Monroe recommend 20-90psi continuously (so I'm well within the specs), or up to 150psi for short periods. Air shocks have a reputation for overloading the shock mount points when used on regular cars, but I figure our beefed-up 4WD mounts can handle it. (Or watch this space for a thread titled "Shock absorber mount point repair and strengthening".)

ANOTHER UPDATE: I've verified that these shocks are long enough with the standard bump stops.
Here's my van's measurements with the Monroe air shocks entirely deflated:
Measurements.JPG


I estimated that the axle can move upwards by 30mm by measuring from the chassis rail to the clean, worn line on the bump stops, which is created when they deform from hitting the chassis rail. The actual measurement was closer to 25mm but I added 5mm for luck.
BumpStop.jpg


I measured the length of the shock at rest between the lower edge of the dust shield, and the weld on the lower part. At rest this measurement was 95mm. I undid the lower mounting nut and, using a crowbar for leverage, pushed the shock closed as far as it would go (not pictured). The measurement reduced to 60mm. 95mm - 60mm = 35mm of upwards movement possible.
MEasureShocks.jpg


So, from rest the axle can move upwards 30mm before the bump stop limits the movement. My shock absorber can move 35mm, which suggests that the shocks have 5mm more travel than I need. Not much margin for error, but good enough.

But wait, it gets better because the shocks are at an angle. 30mm of upwards movement at the axle doesn't mean they get 30mm shorter. Pythagoras to the rescue:
Math.JPG
Math.JPG (234.99 KiB) Viewed 2469 times
When the axle moves 30mm upwards, the shocks only need to get 26mm shorter. The shocks have 35mm travel between rest and their bump limit, which means I have not 5 but 9mm more travel than I need. Awesome.

9mm would normally still be a bit close for comfort- the bump stops could probably deform 9mm further than usual under an extreme load. Fortunately the Monroe shocks have an internal bump stop, so even if they reach the limit of their travel they shouldn't be damaged.
 
Last edited:
Some time later:

I keep forgetting to inflate the air shocks when towing and only notice when I'm on the motorway. Also, when you get to the campsite and unhitch the caravan, it's a pain to air down the shocks for driving around, and then pump them up again when it's time to tow the 'van home.
So here's a fun little project: take a bunch of air fittings and a cheap(ish) 12V compressor, and build an onboard air system for the air shocks. Monroe's awful fittings didn't make it easy, but I got there in the end.

A bunch of random parts from the pneumatic fittings box. Compressor for inflating the shocks, a solenoid valve for deflating. But first, build a box to mount it all in.
Parts.JPG


Folding stainless is a pain when you have the world's worst sheet metal folder.
fold.JPG


box.JPG


All the bits installed in the case, along with some sound deadener because that case was super resonant.
assembles.JPG


Installed above the gearbox crossmember where it's dry. ish.
installed.JPG


An outlet for pumping up tyres, if needed. The air shocks act as a somewhat pathetic air tank.
outlet.JPG


Now the tricky part. Monroe shocks have this stupid, cheap, proprietary connector.
stupidFitting2.JPG


Beneath the stupid Monroe fitting is a 7/16" - 20 thread. Almost an AN or JIC fitting, but without the tapered seat to form an airtight seal. Still, I can make an adapter that'll screw on.
StupidFitting.JPG


Adapters made from a chunk of aluminium. 7/16" - 20 threads on one end, a more normal air line thread of 1/8NPT on the other (with 4mm push-in fitting installed)

If I'd done my homework I would have just bought a pre-made adaptor like this one.
adapters.JPG


Adapters installed. Threads sealed with anaerobic thread sealant.
AdapterInstalled.JPG


Dashboard control- a modified tailgate lock/unlock switch and a moderately accurate pressure gauge. Green is 20-90psi, the range the shocks are happy with for long-term use. They'll go to 150psi for short periods.
dash.JPG


Now I can do the lowrider hopping up and down thing- as long as you film it on timelapse. It takes about 30 seconds to go from 20 to 90psi.
 
Bravo!!!!!! Great write up!. Some months later, are you happy with these shocks?

K
 
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