Checking timing marks: turn the engine BY HAND.

Growlerbearnz

Growlerbearnz

Administrator
Staff member
This one's come up a few times recently, sometimes with expensive consequences:

Every time you work on or around the cam belt (changing the belt, adjusting tension, removing the cam or IP sprocket) be sure to turn the engine over by hand a couple of complete revolutions before you use the starter. Use a ratchet with 19mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and only turn the engine clockwise (as if you're tightening that bolt). You're lining up the timing marks, but also feeling for any sudden tightness that might be a valve hitting a piston.

The manual has this to say:

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To add a little more detail:
First turn the crankshaft until the TDC timing mark lines up with notch on the pulley:

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...then check the sprocket timing marks (If the sprocket marks are 180 degrees out, turn the crankshaft another full revolution)

IP timing sprocket: notch in metal cover lines up with spur on the threaded boss:

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Cam sprocket: dimple on sprocket face (hard to see in this photo) lines up with triangular peg.

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If everything lines up and you can turn the engine without drama, you're good to go.
 
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Second this, I destroyed my head it could have been saved with a few hand cranks of the engine. I also am now a believer in marking your timing belt before you start work around it to make sure things don’t get moved mistakenly.
 
Thanks so much for posting this @Growlerbearnz - I am starting to put my engine back together with the new head, rings, and honed cylinders, and I found I was stuck trying to figure out how to line up the crank pulley with the case to get the timing correct. Your photo set me straight.

I believe my catastrophic engine failure happened because the cam pulley was not torqued correctly prior to my purchase of the van and the bolt simply backed out until the pulley broke the bolt off entirely and the head blew to pieces. Do you have any thoughts on how to hold the pulley to torque the new bolt correctly?

I sure hope this rebuild works out for me... I am far over my head here but trying to be careful. This has taken me all summer to get this far! Your advice has helped my immeasurably. Thanks again!

HC
 
Hardluck Charlie said:
Do you have any thoughts on how to hold the pulley to torque the new bolt correctly?
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Large screwdriver through the sprocket, levering against the alloy backplate. Don't lever against the timing mark peg- they snap off. Also don't use the timing belt tension to hold the sprocket- the timing belt isn't intended to take that sort of load, and can fail internally.
 
This information helped me successfully do my first engine timing. One thing that is not mentioned which took me a while to figure out it that when you loosen the spring loaded tensioner, be SURE to drive it back with a screwdriver to the full (relaxed belt) position, and then to tighten it there while you set the belt. If you let it go without clamping it in that full back position, it will jump forward and the powerful tension spring will jump off its retainer and take you a while to figure out. Simple.... push that tensioner back as far as you can and bolt it tight! get your belt on the correct teeth, loosen bolt and set the tension. It is easy that way.
 
I found it took me a few tries to be 100% sure I was on the exact correct teeth. Worth the time to get that correct! Also, you can leave the radiator in place, but remove the fan shroud - simple - 4 small nuts to remove.
 
Also, after turning over by hand, pull the fuel pump fuse (or jump the IP solenoid, whatever), basically disable fueling to the cylinders. It will spin by the starter but not fire which is much slower and lower force. You will hear any issues (or it will bind), and also build oil pressure along with circulation. With these jobs you literally cannot be too careful, signed guy who mistimed 2 engines before...

Growler says: Good thought! The easiest way to disable injection is to unplug the square connector on top of the IP.
 
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How long does a timing belt and water pump service typically take? I've done several on gas engines, but this will be my first time doing this service on a 4D56 Delica.
 
Stabs said:
How long does a timing belt and water pump service typically take? I've done several on gas engines, but this will be my first time doing this service on a 4D56 Delica.
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I'd say half a day the first time you do it (longer if the crank pulley doesn't want to come off), a couple of hours the second time.

There's nothing particularly difficult about the belt change, just a lot of removing cover panels and crawling over and under the engine. I recommend removing the radiator the first time you do it.
 
I totally agree with Growler above. Everything. Be sure to torque to the correct value with the right wrench. I am convinced that the shop I purchased my Deli from did not do this. The timing sprocket fell off and the top end blew to bits. Cost me lots of money and time to put it all back together.

...and with a salute to Growler above who was tolerant of my ignorance and talked me through the worst of it!
 
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