Fusible Links, Glow Plug Bypass Kits, Immobilizer Kit, and misc

[sk66]

I tried to order fusible links and it was cancelled as the larger ones are discontinued. So I wound up doing a lot of research and found all of the components required... of course the spade ends are metric and off the shelf .25" won't work. And, you can't order only what you need... or rather you can get many more pieces for the same price; so I have a lot of extras now. If you want just the parts to crimp/solder/assemble yourself the price is $10 less for the set.

If the male housings on your links are in good shape; they are easy to swap over and save a few bucks. But typically the clip portion has broken by now and they are held together with tape; in that case it's easy to replace just the housings as well. The female housings are typically OK unless they've overheated... commonly the connections have oxidized by now which causes high resistance/heat/failure.

If you haven't had any issues yet; do yourself a favor and clean the connections and reassemble with dielectric grease... they might continue to last the life of the van. If you don't; they won't.


Individual bare links (crimped and soldered)- $5.00/ea
Set of all six wire links w/o housings- $25.00/set
Individual links with plug ends (MB328732/MB056932)- $7.50/ea
Set of six wire links; 4 female + 2 male with housings (plug & play)- $35.00
Everything (plug & play + Alternator link)- $38.00
above prices include shipping (to lower 48)

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DIY Link/Harness repair
Replacement male housings- $1.50/ea
Replacement female housings- $2.00/ea
Replacement female/male spade ends- $0.35/ea
Alternator link- $3.00
Shipping is an additional $4.50 (continental USA)

PM to order.

6/2022: Updated the 1.0mm GP/Start fusible link with the braided glass sheathing. I don't know that it's really required, but it's on the OEM one.

 

[sk66]

I'm adding the quick glow dual bypass wiring with heavy duty on-off-on momentary toggle switch, spade terminal splitter, and 10ft of 18/3 cable w/ 5A inline fuse. Assembled/soldered/formed as shown, opposite end of cable left as cut to enable fishing the cable. No modifications to the factory wiring required (installs in parallel with the OEM wiring).

$33 shipped to lower 48... if you only need some of the parts (i.e. you want to use a different switch), or you need a different length of cable, that can be accommodated. PM to order





I've changed the switch to a round rocker style that fits a .75"/20mm hole like the other switches do. I do have a few of the HD toggle switches left if you prefer. I've also switched to an integrated spade connector/piggyback... one less electrical connection.

rocker switch/wiring: these connections make the single dash the 1st position/#1 relay (applies 12v).


***NOTE: The 12v feed wire may be on either side of your relay. Test both black w/ red stripe wires to find the one that is always live.
That is a direct 120A battery feed; disconnect battery negative before starting work.



I now have a 12v single relay bypass kit available. This is better if you are abandoning the OEM controller or if you have a single relay 12v system (also suitable for the L400).
$30 shipped to lower 48

 

[sk66]

Immobilizer kit. No modifications to the OEM wiring required (I have a disdain for hacking into the wiring unless absolutely required). As shown with harness plugs installed; ~ 6" free ends (longer than shown). Crimp on spade ends not installed to allow fishing the cable. 10ft of 18/3 cable included. LED illuminated on/off rocker installs easily in a 3/4" diameter hole.

Plugs in-line with the OEM harness. It can disable the injection pump (diesel engines) by plugging the IP shutoff solenoid wires into it; or it can disable the starter solenoid (gas and diesel engines) by plugging the ign sw signal wire into it.
The shutoff solenoid wires are harder to get to, makes for a more discreet installation, and allows the engine to crank (more confusing and more noise). The starter solenoid wire is much easier to access, makes for a more obvious installation, and does not allow the engine to crank (silent).

$29 shipped to lower 48... if you only need some of the parts (i.e. you want to use a different switch), or you need a different length of cable, that can be accommodated. PM to order

 

[sk66]

Here are the connections:
If you have a gas engine and/or you just want to disable the starter relay, use the start solenoid signal wire from the positive terminal labeled in this picture (top middle). Just unplug that connection and plug in the kill switch harness... connect the ground wire to earth somewhere if you want the switch's LED to illuminate when in the on position.
(the picture also shows/labels all of the fusible links; and yes, I replaced all of mine with new before providing them as suitable replacements)



I have the diesel engine so I installed the kill switch to the fuel shutoff solenoid instead. It's a bit of a hassle to get to, but I think it's the better option. The ground screw used originally mounted an A/C cutoff switch. If your switch is miraculously in good condition you can still use the mounting screw; or any other suitable grounding point (only required for the switch's LED to illuminate).



I ran the cable inside through the AC drain grommet, and then installed the switch in a super secret location; this is in the off position (LED off). The signal/return wires (red/green) on the switch change locations between the two installations; the gold terminal on the switch is ground for the LED.

BTW, this is probably not the best location for the switch... it makes pulling the glove box difficult; you have to pull the switch first. I figured that out after drilling the hole

 

[sk66]

 

[Kellyn]

This is fantastic. Thank you

 

[sk66]

I've added a few choices for the immobilizer switch.