So what ur saying is, I should bring it back to the shop and show them this sheet? The van drives straight now, whereas before it was pulling left. I don’t see an issue.Except that they're not... I converted the specs from arcsecond to arcminute to match the report format. Your right front caster is out of spec; and they both should have been adjusted closer to the 4˚ spec rather than just "within range" (if possible).
FWIW, IDT you need to be concerned about it. And I wouldn't want negative toe (toe out) even though the manual allows for it (I like their range better).
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Not really... a few arcsec towards positive out on caster isn't probably going to be noticeable; the rest of the measurements look fine to me. Negative toe measurements are what cause the vehicle to wander and pull on improved roads.So what ur saying is, I should bring it back to the shop and show them this sheet?
They used that as a baseline, but ended up entertaining it all in manually based off of an older alignment that was done at a shop in Canada. The shop had the Delica in the system. I’ll probably end up getting another alignment done before summer ends when I refresh my suspension. Will be interesting to see the difference.Not really... a few arcsec towards positive out on caster isn't probably going to be noticeable; the rest of the measurements look fine to me. Negative toe measurements are what cause the vehicle to wander and pull on improved roads.
I assume the "Raider Pickup (Modified Specification)" means someone at the shop modified the specs to match the Delica, but incorrectly (bad info/bad math?)... unless the shop's database has the specific vehicle model in it I would be providing them with the page from the manual (and verifying).
Are the specs (in red) applicable for 1994 L400 4wd 2.8 td?Except that they're not... I converted the specs from arcsecond to arcminute to match the report format. Your right front caster is out of spec; and they both should have been adjusted closer to the 4˚ spec rather than just "within range" (if possible).
FWIW, IDT you need to be concerned about it. And I wouldn't want negative toe (toe out) even though the manual allows for it (I like their range better).
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So if I take this, translated version to an alignment shop, they’ll know the specs from this? @sk66Except that they're not... I converted the specs from arcsecond to arcminute to match the report format. Your right front caster is out of spec; and they both should have been adjusted closer to the 4˚ spec rather than just "within range" (if possible).
FWIW, IDT you need to be concerned about it. And I wouldn't want negative toe (toe out) even though the manual allows for it (I like their range better).
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Do you have those spec @ShelbyD ? My alignment is today.Surprisingly my alignment guy had delica in his system here in USA.
That would be so amazing if you could do that @ShelbyD . Thank you so much!!Probably but I’m not sure where. I need to go by the shop shortly here though so I’ll ask him.
I went by there but unfortunately he can’t show target specs until the car is actually on the rack. The computer does t work that way. Sorry! I’ll look around a bit more for the print out but I may have tossed it.That would be so amazing if you could do that @ShelbyD . Thank you so much!!
Well shoot...I guess I will just have to use what the values are above and hope that is what is needed. Than you @ShelbyD for looking into it. Do let me know if you have the sheet still lying around, that would be greatly appreciated.I went by there but unfortunately he can’t show target specs until the car is actually on the rack. The computer does t work that way. Sorry! I’ll look around a bit more for the print out but I may have tossed it.
Would you share how you pressed the bushings out and new ones in? Took the front A arms to a machine shop that does this kind of work and they been having very hard time with it. ThanksSo if I take this, translated version to an alignment shop, they’ll know the specs from this? @sk66
I’m getting new tires for my 1995 L400 2.8 L TD.
I’ve installed all new front suspension components, swaybar end links, contro arm, bushings, ball joints, etc. so just wanna make sure these are the proper specs.
We actually used a circular drill bit (like this one: https://a.co/d/fFf2ZDM) and drilled out most of the bushing while it was in a vice. Then once enough space was free we used a metal sawzall to get as close to the edge of the A-Arm as possible then we used a chisel to hammer out the rest. It was certainly a process but it worked. Then we obviously just pressed the new bushings in. I will say that I do not like the non-OEM bushings as they do not fit the same and their configuration is a bit different, I initially tried to save money getting non-OEM bushings, but they did not work out. I would HIGHLY suggest getting OEM bushings.Would you share how you pressed the bushings out and new ones in? Took the front A arms to a machine shop that does this kind of work and they been having very hard time with it. Thanks