Looking for guidance fixing V5M21 5 speed

PhilE

PhilE

Active Member
It's looking like rebuild time for my 5sp, V5M21, 1996. It wants new synchros for 1 and 2. No other problems are obvious right now, other then oil residue from the engine/trans interface.
1) Per GBNZ, I should replace the input shaft bearing; and check/replace as needed/locktite the fifth gear sleeve/nut situation. Any other preventive actions while it's apart?
2) Should I replace the clutch and /or have the flywheel machined since it's apart?
3) Any gut feel and/or tips for figuring out if the oil leak is from the engine or trans? Can the rear seal be roped in or replaced in situ?
4) GBNZ- best source of transmission parts in NZ?
Thanks for any help!
 
1) Below is a parts list that should suit your gearbox. Don't think you're special though, it's my parts list from when I rebuilt my gearbox. Things you should replace are highlighted with an asterisk *
2) If the clutch is worn or oily or has been slipping, sure. Otherwise... it's (relatively) easy to replace later. Replace the release bearing while you're there though.
3) It's probably leaking from both ;-) You can replace the crank seal fairly easily while the gearbox is off, but if the crank has a worn spot it might not make much of a difference. When you replace the input shaft bearing you'll need to replace the input shaft seal anyway.
4) I ordered most parts from Amayama.com. Check their prices out before you go anywhere in NZ. Generic bearings come from Saeco Bearings, but again compare prices to Amayama first.

Bearings, in order of importance:
*MD731727 input shaft bearing with felt seals (USE GENUINE PART ONLY! Don't use generic NTN TMSC0788NRCS40PX1 as it has no seals.)
*MR453264 X2 Layshaft Taper roller bearing (Generic: Koyo HC1788731)
MD703798 Countershaft extension bearing (Koyo DG2256SH2C3)
MD716917 (Generic: NACHI 35BVV07X6CS) Mainshaft double row centre bearing

Synchros for a 1996 (as far as I can tell- they changed a lot!)
MR111956 x3 Synchro rings (3/4/5th) (1994-)
-MR196830 Synchro ring 2nd, solid (1995-) (-1994 has 2-piece rings)
-MR196829 Synchro ring 1st, solid. (1995-)

Needle roller bearings:
MD712965 x2 reverse idler bearings
MD714821 reverse idler shaft
MD701760 3rd needle roller
*MD731433 Mainshaft pilot needle roller
MD703760 x2 Mainshaft needle roller
MR581773 Reverse gear needle roller (split roller case)
*MD723201 5th gear needle roller
*MD703786 5th gear N.R. sleeve

Seals:
*MD705848 or 2580A003 x2 selector shaft oil seals
*MD723202 Input shaft seal

Gaskets:
*MD736300 Front cover gasket
*MD705865 x2 Rear cover/5th gear housing gasket (buy two because they tear easily)
*MD739566 Transfer case steel gasket
*MD703796 Under cover gasket (for old steel under cover. Consider upgrade instead:
MD727553 Cast gearbox pan/cover
MD727531 cover rubber seal)
MR179712 Transfer case rebuild gasket kit, inc seals- just in case you decide to pull the transfer case apart too.

Clutch:
*MR195689 Release bearing (Generic: Valeo PRB02)
MD979428 clutch slave cylinder rebuild kit
MB334439 clutch Master cylinder rebuild kit

Crankshaft seal:
MD343564 seal
MD183244 seal housing to block gasket

Oh, now the bit where you get to feel special: my gearbox is a 1994, but I ordered the 1st and 2nd synchros for a 1995-. They're no use to me, let me send them down to you. PM me your address. I believe they'll fit your gearbox.


3053

I'm also guessing you've seen the awesome step-by-step rebuild thread on the Starquest club forums here: http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=148661&st=0
 
Last edited:
GBNZ- that's all fantastic. Thank you! I had bookmarked your page on the 'part numbers' thread and although I've never torn a gearbox down, the starquest link you posted has given me the confidence to give it a go. If a Star Quest is possible, how hard can a Star Wagon be? The addition of the asterisks is exactly the help I was hoping for. I'll contact you PM for the parts you don't need and let's find out what you do need so I can return the favor. Just got a bag of the LEDs to light up the tailgate DELICA if you need a couple of those.
 
Is it advisable to drop the transfer case first before pulling the transmission? Seems like it would make the whole process more manageable and the case has to come off anyway for the transmission tear-down. Will the engine need supported when the trans comes off or is it pretty well balanced on it's mounts?
 
Will the engine need supported when the trans comes off or is it pretty well balanced on it's mounts?
Click to expand...
So, a year and a half later, how did it go? are you trapped under the fallen engine? should we send help? ...
 
SteliosL said:
That thread says 88/89 KM132 not V5M21. These 2 transmissions have something in common?
Click to expand...
The V5M21 is an improved/upgraded version of the old KM series: they're (mostly) the same gearbox, but Mitsubishi decided the upgrades were significant enough that the gearbox deserved a new name.
 
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