Tutorial: Removing the EGR on the L300 :with videos:

Kellyn

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This is a HUGE topic in the diesel world. Mainly because in most states performing this modification is ILLEGAL. Well the good news here is that your shiny L300 is emissions exempt so let's just mod away! EGR stand for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. This system takes spent exhaust gasses and reintroduces them into the combustion chamber during cruise in order to cool down the combustion chamber temperatures and improve fuel economy. This system works well... on gasoline engines. I work on a lot of diesel engines and the main culprit of sludge and contamination is the result of the EGR system. This is because diesel emissions are dirty and reintroducing that nastiness just makes things worse. So let's get rid of it.

Step one: Buy your kit! EBAY!!
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Step two: Prepare for removal. Remove driver's side subfloor section (removal of this can be found on another thread)
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Step Three: Locate the enemy. This is the EGR Valve itself. It attaches itself with two 12mm bolts to the intake manifold. It has a metal pipe that connects down to the exhaust manifold with two 12mm nuts. Remove the vacuum line from the EGR Valve and install the supplied vacuum cap to the metal line that originally provided vacuum to the valve. Spray everything with WD40 and wait 30 minutes. Now remove the 12mm bolts up top and the 12mm nuts below. Snake the EGR Valve and pipe out as an assembly. Do not try and remove the pipe from the EGR Valve in the truck; it is unnecessary. Removing the nuts on the manifold may take the thread studs with you. This is because the nut has siezed itself to the stud as a result of heat. I had a spare set of studs laying around; you may not be so lucky.
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Step Four: Install the blockoff plate at the intake manifold and at the exhaust manifold using the supplied hardware. I used a small amount of RTV on the intake manifold to ensure a good seal. A leak here will sacrifice performance and make a mess as it will drip down onto the turbo.
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Here are a few videos that show the whole process and talk about inspecting the turbocharger.

Kellyn
 
Wow dude! Thanks for posting this. You put some time into this.
 
Hey Kellyn,

Thanks so much for posting this! Im about to take that pesky EGR off and replace with a blanking plate. I did buy a kit off of ebay and it came with a "rubber vacuum blank", which appears to be a rubber tube (with an outer fabric weave) with a small allen bolt in it. Any idea what this is for? Ive got it pictured below.

Thanks so much!

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That cap goes to the metal vacuum line source. Just slide it on to plug off the original vacuum source. Happy to help!

K
 
The lower blanking plate is a good place to mount an EGT probe. You can buy the plate already tapped, or drill/tap it yourself. If you are planning an EGT gauge then I would plan to do it all at once.
 
The lower blanking plate is a good place to mount an EGT probe. You can buy the plate already tapped, or drill/tap it yourself. If you are planning an EGT gauge then I would plan to do it all at once.

Yeah was planning on taking care of that at the same time, thanks!
 
Thanks for the guide! Just so I'm clear, because of the Delica's age, blanking the EGR IS legal in all 50 states?
 
Thanks for the guide! Just so I'm clear, because of the Delica's age, blanking the EGR IS legal in all 50 states?

It is very much not legal. For the state of Oregon anyway, with a diesel thats as old as the Delica there isn't any real test that can be performed. They check for leaks, and that's about it.
 
I'm planning on doing this job this weekend. My EGR plates came not with a gasket, but with these rubberized cardboard looking pieces... are these necessary? can I put an EGT probe through the orange piece after I tap the plate, or will that ruin the seal?

Thanks
Chanchito
 

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Wouldn't simply disconnecting the EGR accomplish the same thing as physically blocking it? From what I've read, they are closed by default so in theory it would block recirculation so long as it stays closed.
 
Wouldn't simply disconnecting the EGR accomplish the same thing as physically blocking it? From what I've read, they are closed by default so in theory it would block recirculation so long as it stays closed.
That is correct. If you disconnect while the engine is off, essentially it stays closed. I’ve heard that you can get blow by but I’m not sure about that beta. I have mixed feelings about the block off or disconnect and I’m sure many will disagree with me. One purpose of egr is for cooling and anyone with a Delica knows they like to get hot while working hard over big passes at full or close to full boost. Maybe not a problem if you don’t live in mountainous areas. I’ve done side by side tests of egr blocked and clean egr installed and my Delica definitely ran better and cooler with egr installed in side by side tests. Conflicting side of having it installed is how dirty it makes that lil engine. I find it interesting that people say their engine runs cooler with the egr removed, which is conflicting information about one of the purposes of the egr valve. I also wonder for the people who removed their valve and gained performance, we’re they clean and operating properly to know that the removal is what made the difference. I would love to hear other opinions on this topic from those who have removed their egr valves.
 
Wouldn't simply disconnecting the EGR accomplish the same thing as physically blocking it?

For the most part, yeah. For me it was about getting a quick and easy port for my EGT gauge. I didn't want to drill in to the manifold.
 
One purpose of egr is for cooling and anyone with a Delica knows they like to get hot while working hard over big passes at full or close to full boost.
The EGR is only supposed to be open at partial throttle settings (i.e. cruise); not during start/idle and not during heavy throttle loads. So it shouldn't make much difference in the overheating area whether installed or not. Theoretically, there should be some increase in performance/acceleration off of partial throttle settings with it removed (i.e. when passing, LOL!), but it's really hard to measure the difference between sad and slightly less sad...

I originally cleaned mine and verified that the diaphragm was good, which should mean it was working (but not guaranteed). I do think it worked fine for a while and then stuck partially open again. I decided to remove it, as much for simplifying installation of an EGT gauge as anything else. I do not believe there has been any significant performance increase, nor have I noted it running significantly hotter. I do have much cleaner starts now and I'm pretty certain the EGR delete contributed, but I've done more than just the EGR which also affect that.
 
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