Temperature Sensors on Cylinder Head: AC, Glow Plugs, or Temperature Gauge

Growlerbearnz

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Inoperative AC system

The AC wiring on a JDM Delica is poorly documented. Here's a diagram of the wiring near the battery and injection pump/cylinder head:

PXL_20211107_201814150.jpg


JDM Automatic L300 Diesel AC wiring.

In the battery compartment:
-thick White wire connects to a thick Black wire via a fusible link. This is the main power feed to the AC system.

Engine bay:
-Black Yellow stripe wire connects to the injection pump full throttle switch. This wire is normally earthed but at full throttle the switch opens, triggering the AC to cut out for about 10 seconds. AC will work normally if this wire is left disconnected.
-blUe Yellow stripe wire connects to a temperature switch on the radiator hose outlet stub on the head. Normally earthed, but opens if the engine overheats, disabling AC until the engine cools down. Connect this wire to earth: if it's disconnected the AC will think the engine has overheated and won't run.
-Black White stripe and Black wires to 2-pin plug: Idle speed increase solenoid. Operates the vacuum motor on the IP, pulling the accelerator lever a little, increasing idle speed.
-Not pictured, only on some vehicles: another overheat sensor, usually has a brown plastic plug. This one turns on the condenser fans when the engine gets hot to help cool it down. The sensor for this one is also in the radiator hose outlet stub, but because it works backwards (normally open, connects to ground when hot) if you plug the BY wire into this one the AC won't work. This optional, brown-plug wire can be left disconnected.

There are also fuses behind the glove box: remove the glove box, look for the white tubes. They sometimes just fail because of age/vibration, but will also blow if there's something jamming one of the AC condenser fans.
 
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Faulty/inoperative Temperature Gauge and/or Glow Plugs

The 2-wire temperature sender (in the head, near #1 injector: see the photo below) runs the temperature gauge with one wire, the other wire goes to the glow plug ECU.
Either of the twin sensors can fail independantly, but before you replace the sensor just check the wiring: the wiring in that area gets hot, is subject to vibration, and is usually covered in oil and dirt: it's a recipe for broken wires.

The temperature sender also gets a bit lazy with age, and can show a low reading on the temperature gauge. Replacement sensor is MD050214

If it's just the temperature gauge that's faulty (glow plugs work ok), here's a quick way to test the temperature gauge: unplug the 2-pin sender, ignition on, ground the plug to the cylinder head, and gauge should move towards Hot. If the gauge doesn't move, you have bad wiring or faulty gauge. If the gauge does move to hot, it's a bad sensor.

Follow the wires and look for anywhere the insulation's rubbed through especially around the fuel rail, and rear firewall (up high behind the engine). Check the sender's resistances as per the workshop manual.
 
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