Turbo wastegate setup on L300

[sk66]

im getting ready to plug the relief valve myself. Does it matter which type of 1" NPT plug. Theres two types at my local hardware store, black iron and galvanized. Would either work with a little thread sealant?

Either will work, and no need for sealant. If you do use sealant I would use paste and very minimal... it is the intake manifold and there is a small risk of bits getting pulled into the engine.
I used black iron and a touch of paste... mostly to help protect against dissimilar metal corrosion (I'm not sure what the intake is made from).

 

[Shamus]

Either will work, and no need for sealant. If you do use sealant I would use paste and very minimal... it is the intake manifold and there is a small risk of bits getting pulled into the engine.
I used black iron and a touch of paste... mostly to help protect against dissimilar metal corrosion (I'm not sure what the intake is made from).

I was reading the other day on GrowlerBears post for tuning the 4DBF engine, that a 1" bspt male end cap might be a better fit. Any thoughts on that? Asking because I’m thinking of making this step myself.

 

[sk66]

I was reading the other day on GrowlerBears post for tuning the 4DBF engine, that a 1" bspt male end cap might be a better fit. Any thoughts on that? Asking because I’m thinking of making this step myself.

BSPT is the correct thread and would be a better fit. But in this application IDT the extra cost/hassle of getting a BSPT plug is justified.

 

[Shamus]

Thanks for clarifying that.
If it’s metric should I look for a 25.4mm BSPT male end cap?

 

[sk66]

Thanks for clarifying that.
If it’s metric should I look for a 25.4mm BSPT male end cap?

No, for some reason pipe taper is always in inches...

 

[Shamus]

I’ve spent an hour this morning searching for a 1 inch bspt.
What a pain!
Our good friend Jeff B. has this listing on his website

Amazon.com

 

[sk66]

I’ve spent an hour this morning searching for a 1 inch bspt.
What a pain!
Our good friend Jeff B. has this listing on his website

Amazon.com

LOL, only 4x the cost compared to a SS NPT

 

[Shamus]

I gotta be honest. Given my past experience of break downs. Capping off the relief port has worried me. I’ve adjustmented the waste gate and my relief valve starts spitting at 14 psi, and kick down cable. on a long incline I’m usually cresting the top of the pass at 32-35mph with 12-13 psi. I’ve had the 4DBF installed now for a couple years and I think I’ve got it properly broken in.
I guess I’m gonna go with the more expensive one, just in case I decide to put the relief valve back in.

 

[sk66]

I gotta be honest. Given my past experience of break downs. Capping off the relief port has worried me. I’ve adjustmented the waste gate and my relief valve starts spitting at 14 psi, and kick down cable. on a long incline I’m usually cresting the top of the pass at 32-35mph with 12-13 psi. I’ve had the 4DBF installed now for a couple years and I think I’ve got it properly broken in.
I guess I’m gonna go with the more expensive one, just in case I decide to put the relief valve back in.

14psi is a good place to be... IDK for sure about the D4BF, but the limit for the OEM wastegate actuator is 14psi; I would guess it's about the same on the Hyundai version. And there's not much to be gained from going any higher.

My relief valve was opening at 8psi, and the replacement I bought was opening at 11; that's why I went with the plug. I also wound up replacing the wastegate actuator with a Mamba due to exceeding 14psi (didn't know better).

 

[Shamus]

Steven,
if you know of another post that details why exceeding 14 psi is bad. Hit me up with it.

It just seems so weird to me that exceeding 14 psi, which if I remember correctly is atmospheric pressure at sea level would be so bad. About a week ago on FB, a fella was telling me in a comment that he is pushing 20 psi with no issues with a 4D56 engine, had his relief valve welded shut.

I've also been following Delica Works International out of Taiwan on Instagram, he's posted videos following a Delica with a 4D56 engine, that was pushing 150km going up hill. He keeps saying their going to have turbo mod for sale but, their web page is doesn't seem to be kept up or managed well.

 

[sk66]

Steven,
if you know of another post that details why exceeding 14 psi is bad. Hit me up with it

It's in the shop manual. Atmospheric pressure isn't an issue because it is acting on both sides of the diaphragm. When/if the actuator fails you can produce more boost than intended; I saw 18 psi. My replacement actuator can handle a lot more pressure.

Higher boost isn't necessarily bad (other than for the actuator)... but there isn't a lot of point to it as the IP/boost compensator isn't able to provide more fuel to go with it. You need to upgrade the IP and injectors as well.

I've also been following Delica Works International out of Taiwan on Instagram, he's posted videos following a Delica with a 4D56 engine, that was pushing 150km going up hill.

Didn't look like climbing a hill to me, and he was hitting ~1500˚ EGTs. I did see a video Rio put out of his van accelerating up a grade after his Cummins R2.8 engine swap.

 

[Growlerbearnz]

If you're using a boost controller to increase your boost, the wastegate actuator won't see 14psi until the turbo's making around 20psi (in theory). The boost controller is a kind of pressure regulator, reducing the pressure in the boost line to the actuator. Though I'm fairly confident the actuator is over-built, as we don't hear of many that fail.

I mention boost limits and risks in this post (Bonus tuning) but TL;DR: more boost = hotter intake air = early fuel ignition = boom.

 

[Shamus]

It's in the shop manual. Atmospheric pressure isn't an issue because it is acting on both sides of the diaphragm. When/if the actuator fails you can produce more boost than intended; I saw 18 psi. My replacement actuator can handle a lot more pressure.

Higher boost isn't necessarily bad (other than for the actuator)... but there isn't a lot of point to it as the IP/boost compensator isn't able to provide more fuel to go with it. You need to upgrade the IP and injectors as well.

View attachment 24338


Didn't look like climbing a hill to me, and he was hitting ~1500˚ EGTs. I did see a video Rio put out of his van accelerating up a grade after his Cummins R2.8 engine swap.

It's in the shop manual. Atmospheric pressure isn't an issue because it is acting on both sides of the diaphragm. When/if the actuator fails you can produce more boost than intended; I saw 18 psi. My replacement actuator can handle a lot more pressure.

Higher boost isn't necessarily bad (other than for the actuator)... but there isn't a lot of point to it as the IP/boost compensator isn't able to provide more fuel to go with it. You need to upgrade the IP and injectors as well.

View attachment 24338


Didn't look like climbing a hill to me, and he was hitting ~1500˚ EGTs. I did see a video Rio put out of his van accelerating up a grade after his Cummins R2.8 engine swap.

Thanks for the info on checking the diaphragm.
I was also noticing the EGT too and Kenny Loggin started playing in my head.

 

[Shamus]

If you're using a boost controller to increase your boost, the wastegate actuator won't see 14psi until the turbo's making around 20psi (in theory). The boost controller is a kind of pressure regulator, reducing the pressure in the boost line to the actuator. Though I'm fairly confident the actuator is over-built, as we don't hear of many that fail.

I mention boost limits and risks in this post (Bonus tuning) but TL;DR: more boost = hotter intake air = early fuel ignition = boom.

reading your post on tuning helped me figure out how to adjust my waste gate, which has been going great I got it back with the second 4DBF engine set at 10 psi. The sound of the relief valve always scares my passengers when it starts stuttering like Daffy Duck at 14 psi.
On a test ride it it hit 16 psi but I came home and gave it just a couple turns to get it right at 14psi, when I start to hear the relief opening.
I want a few more years with this engine before I play with the timing and the bounce tuning. Also just to see how that tuning is working for you.

 

[shockwavecs]

I've been increasing the boost via wastegate adjustments. Mine started around 6 threads on top and 5.5 threads showing on the bottom. I went down to ~3 ish threads top and bottom and only at 11 PSI peak. Shall I keep tightening it to let's say 2, maybe 1 thread top/bottom to hit closer to 14PSI?

 

[sealica]

I've been increasing the boost via wastegate adjustments. Mine started around 6 threads on top and 5.5 threads showing on the bottom. I went down to ~3 ish threads top and bottom and only at 11 PSI peak. Shall I keep tightening it to let's say 2, maybe 1 thread top/bottom to hit closer to 14PSI?

I was trying to adjust my actuator, but the coupling nut that joins the two rods rotates the whole rod/nut assembly. The upper rod that goes into the actuator/diaphragm can rotate 360 degrees and beyond.

I tried holding the upper rod in place with vice grips, but still couldn't get the coupling nut to turn.

Before I risk breaking my actuator, just wondering if anyone has some tips on where to hold the rods in place.

 

[DustAngel]

Loosen the jam nut a couple of threads and the center coupler should adjust

 

[sealica]

Loosen the jam nut a couple of threads and the center coupler should adjust

Thank You. It appeared to me (incorrectly) that the jam nuts were a part of the coupler. Shortened the upper rod, but the lower rod doesn't appear to want to budge. Maybe just need more penetrating oil/heat ...