Tutorial: Upper Ball Joint Spacer Install

Kellyn

Forum Administrator
Staff member
Some of you wonder how technically challenging the ball joint spacer job is. Well, it's not. Let me walk you through it so you can knock it out in an hour or less. All you need apart from the spacer kit is a set of straight grease fittings available at any auto parts store. If you need a pair, PM me and I will mail you some.

Step One!
Lift the front of the delica and place it on jack stands so the wheels are off the ground.

Step Two!
Remove the front wheels

Step Three!
Loosen the torsion bar tensioners until they wobble. DONT FORGET TO MEASURE THE THREADED ROD LENGTH BEFORE YOU LOOSEN THEM. This retains your ride height. Don't forget, you're going up a little with the spacer install, so think accordingly.


Step Four!
Locate the ball joint bolts. Now that you have relaxed the torsion bar tension, this part is a breeze. Remove the original angled grease fitting because it will interfere later. Remove the three bolts and let the whole assembly drop down. Wipe all of the dirt and crud up with a rag and prepare the top of the ball joint for installation of the ball joint spacer.



Step Five!
Install the spacer on the top of the now clean ball joint and line up the holes.


Step Six!
Prepare the bolts provided but add a little loctite blue or red. A LITTLE BIT! It already comes with lock washers for pete's sake.


Step Seven!
With your third hand, reposition the ball joint back under the upper control arm and install the bolts. This is the tricky part. It really helps to have someone hold pressure on the upper control arm while you fidget with the ball joint hole centering. Let the bolts naturally fall into the holes as you wiggle the assembly a bit. Once they drop down into the hole, carefully thread them in. They should thread in easily. If they don't you, f*cked up the alignment and try again.

Step Eight!
Don't forget to retighten the torsion bar tensioners!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Step Nine!
Go show all your friends how cool your Delica is and have them call me to get them one. :p
 
I used the FTS Revolver Shackles on the rear. This gives you about two plus inches of lift on the rear. Note that you need to have extended travel shocks (Pro comps) and a center brake hose extention to make it all work.
 
Honestly the older ones are pretty much non existent anymore. they are to hard to get through inspections now. Even the L400's are starting to die out in trade for the D5 model.
 
How long did it take for the spacers to arrive to the US and were there any additional costs involved in it, do you find the company reliable?
 
Can you post some pictures of the revolver shackles and what rear shocks (company and part number) did you use on your setup?
 
See below. The part numbers for those shocks are in the part number thread.

20170524_212208.jpg
 
This drops the knuckle down slightly, giving you about an inch of rise up front without having to crank the torsion bars.
@Kellyn Seeing that you work on these beasts all the time. I am showing a little bit of sag in the rear after adding sound deadening mat, 1/2" birch subfloor and 1/4" laminate, reinstalling OG bench seat and one captain chair. Still have roof top carrier, awning, hitch mount bike rack and gear for trips to add. I measure 19 11/16" from center of hub to wheel arc in the rear and the front measures 20 1/2". I've ordered Monroe 708 air shocks to help alleviate this problem. Do you recommend anything else? FYI, I do not have a lift. Thanks in advance!!
 
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