Hi All,
After reading a ton on this forum I joined a little while ago. I own two vehicles, neither a Delica but both with similar engines: see signature.
Well, the bottom line is that I want to understand how the vacuum lines work on the 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram for the later engines and can actually explain it to me?
Backstory (if you can stomach to read it):
I bought the Mitsubishi Montero Sport (also called Shogun Sport in the UK and Pajero Sport in most of the rest of the world) with the engine running so badly that it would have been better if it hadn't run. The previous owners suffered from repeated scams and incompetence and out of emotional desperation sold it to me just so they wouldn't have to think about it any more. A sad and very real aspect of living in "paradise".
After initially diagnosing it I decided to buy quite a few parts from a UK supplier who specialises (sic) in Mitsubishi 4D56 and similar engines. I'm located in the Canary Islands and here you will pay 2 to 4 times what things cost in other places and it will be accompanied by absolute incompetence, free, at no charge. To upgrade to only mild incompetence costs even more. The people from the company in the UK were pleasant, competent, and their prices were good. They shipped out my parts quickly but, of course, between the spanish arm of fedex and a canary island company responsable for the customs paperwork intot he canary islands, the canary island customs agent left my documents sit unattended for 10 days until the shipper was about to return my shipment. And who would have had to pay for shipping three ways? Me, because no one here is ever responsable for anything.
Back to topic. During the weeks of waiting for parts I did a massive amount of research, watched many videos in languanges I'd never heard before, and learned quite a bit about the belts and pulleys. Once the parts arrived I slowly and carefully worked over the course of a week (much of that cleaning off an interesting mix of old diesel and engine oil and new volcanic ash).
And now it is running. With my foot heavily on the accelerator, it belched smoke for the first 1/2 kilometer and then ran quite nicely with nearly no smoke. I took it to get inspected later in the day and it passed the exhaust opacity test easily (0.41, while the allowable limit of the vehicle is 1.7 nanokiloblobs/cubicfootmetersecond of air, or whatever the scale is).
But the turbo doesn't seem to be doing much at low rpms. It seems to be very down on power until around 3000rpms. It could be massive carbon build-up. I experienced that once before when I helped a young man move and we took his mother's diesel car. She never drove more than 20mph and rarely more than 1/2 mile. When we first started driving her car it would barely accelerate and wouldn't go more than 40mph on the highway (we had to take a 4 hours ferrry to another island to get to a highway). After 2 or 3 one-hour trips of holding the accelerator pegged to the floor it re-gained significant power and we could drive 75mph.
But in any case I want to understand the vaccum and turbo adjustments.
The Montero Sport was worked on by several mechanics, all proven painfully incompetent, and one clearly a gold-digger (brand new turbo, "remanufactured" injectors, a professionally rebuilt injector pump, new glow plugs, etc). Yet it still ran painfully badly because, wait for it . . . . the timing was off 2 teeth.
And it gets worse. Due to the front crankshaft bolt not being tightened by two different "mechanics", almost everything in front of the oil pump was damaged beyond repair. The first replaced the Harmonic dampener and it lasted a few hundred kilometers max due to the front crankshaft bolt not being tightened by the second and everything banging around.
From now on I'm going to replace the crankshaft bolt after every other time of removing it.
I put on the following new parts:
• crank sprocket for the balancer belt (and new balancer belt)
• "flange" wheel (that stamped sheet metal part between the balance drive pulley and the timing drive pulley)
• crankshaft sprocket for the timing belt (with a new timing belt, of course)
• sensor trigger wheel (for the electronically-controlled later 4D56 and D4BH engines)
• crankshaft sensor (the old sensor was partially shattered from the sensor trigger wheel hitting it. Ouch! You can imagine how the car ran (off two teeth of timing and the crankshaft sensor bashed to bits)
• dampener pulley, new washer, and new bolt
• one more thing I can't remember.
It probably helped a little that I timed it correctly.
So now I want to see if I can understand the vacuum and turbo circuitry. There is a vacuum actuator that pulls on a rod, which moves the wastegate lever on the outside of the turbo and there are two stop screws for the wastegate lever. How do I adjust those wastegate stop screws? There are more vacuum lines on this engine than the older 4D56 and D4BF engines (and the engagement of the front axles for 4WD are also vacuum-driven, thus adding more solenoids and lines). Based on the quality of work done previously on this vehicle I must assume that the vacuum lines or the adjustments for the turbo were done wrong.
Can anyone help me understand those systems or point me into a direction to understand?
Thanks,
Dave
After reading a ton on this forum I joined a little while ago. I own two vehicles, neither a Delica but both with similar engines: see signature.
Well, the bottom line is that I want to understand how the vacuum lines work on the 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Sport. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram for the later engines and can actually explain it to me?
Backstory (if you can stomach to read it):
I bought the Mitsubishi Montero Sport (also called Shogun Sport in the UK and Pajero Sport in most of the rest of the world) with the engine running so badly that it would have been better if it hadn't run. The previous owners suffered from repeated scams and incompetence and out of emotional desperation sold it to me just so they wouldn't have to think about it any more. A sad and very real aspect of living in "paradise".
After initially diagnosing it I decided to buy quite a few parts from a UK supplier who specialises (sic) in Mitsubishi 4D56 and similar engines. I'm located in the Canary Islands and here you will pay 2 to 4 times what things cost in other places and it will be accompanied by absolute incompetence, free, at no charge. To upgrade to only mild incompetence costs even more. The people from the company in the UK were pleasant, competent, and their prices were good. They shipped out my parts quickly but, of course, between the spanish arm of fedex and a canary island company responsable for the customs paperwork intot he canary islands, the canary island customs agent left my documents sit unattended for 10 days until the shipper was about to return my shipment. And who would have had to pay for shipping three ways? Me, because no one here is ever responsable for anything.
Back to topic. During the weeks of waiting for parts I did a massive amount of research, watched many videos in languanges I'd never heard before, and learned quite a bit about the belts and pulleys. Once the parts arrived I slowly and carefully worked over the course of a week (much of that cleaning off an interesting mix of old diesel and engine oil and new volcanic ash).
And now it is running. With my foot heavily on the accelerator, it belched smoke for the first 1/2 kilometer and then ran quite nicely with nearly no smoke. I took it to get inspected later in the day and it passed the exhaust opacity test easily (0.41, while the allowable limit of the vehicle is 1.7 nanokiloblobs/cubicfootmetersecond of air, or whatever the scale is).
But the turbo doesn't seem to be doing much at low rpms. It seems to be very down on power until around 3000rpms. It could be massive carbon build-up. I experienced that once before when I helped a young man move and we took his mother's diesel car. She never drove more than 20mph and rarely more than 1/2 mile. When we first started driving her car it would barely accelerate and wouldn't go more than 40mph on the highway (we had to take a 4 hours ferrry to another island to get to a highway). After 2 or 3 one-hour trips of holding the accelerator pegged to the floor it re-gained significant power and we could drive 75mph.
But in any case I want to understand the vaccum and turbo adjustments.
The Montero Sport was worked on by several mechanics, all proven painfully incompetent, and one clearly a gold-digger (brand new turbo, "remanufactured" injectors, a professionally rebuilt injector pump, new glow plugs, etc). Yet it still ran painfully badly because, wait for it . . . . the timing was off 2 teeth.
And it gets worse. Due to the front crankshaft bolt not being tightened by two different "mechanics", almost everything in front of the oil pump was damaged beyond repair. The first replaced the Harmonic dampener and it lasted a few hundred kilometers max due to the front crankshaft bolt not being tightened by the second and everything banging around.
From now on I'm going to replace the crankshaft bolt after every other time of removing it.
I put on the following new parts:
• crank sprocket for the balancer belt (and new balancer belt)
• "flange" wheel (that stamped sheet metal part between the balance drive pulley and the timing drive pulley)
• crankshaft sprocket for the timing belt (with a new timing belt, of course)
• sensor trigger wheel (for the electronically-controlled later 4D56 and D4BH engines)
• crankshaft sensor (the old sensor was partially shattered from the sensor trigger wheel hitting it. Ouch! You can imagine how the car ran (off two teeth of timing and the crankshaft sensor bashed to bits)
• dampener pulley, new washer, and new bolt
• one more thing I can't remember.
It probably helped a little that I timed it correctly.
So now I want to see if I can understand the vacuum and turbo circuitry. There is a vacuum actuator that pulls on a rod, which moves the wastegate lever on the outside of the turbo and there are two stop screws for the wastegate lever. How do I adjust those wastegate stop screws? There are more vacuum lines on this engine than the older 4D56 and D4BF engines (and the engagement of the front axles for 4WD are also vacuum-driven, thus adding more solenoids and lines). Based on the quality of work done previously on this vehicle I must assume that the vacuum lines or the adjustments for the turbo were done wrong.
Can anyone help me understand those systems or point me into a direction to understand?
Thanks,
Dave
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