What Did You Do for Your Van Today?

Took the van for its 6-monthly roadworthiness inspection, asked the mechanic if he could also check the timing while he was looking for things to fail me on (several little things, but surprisingly not rust)...the timing is >30 degrees out.

spent all day on Sunday removing the coating on my old montero rims as the coatings were 'corroded' and curb rashed. various spinning wheel attachments on the drill, various sandpaper grits, and they looked pretty nice all clean and shiny (see note below). then primed them with filler primer and sprayed with metallic spray paint. didn't like the look so got another brand of metallic and re-sprayed and then gloss clear-coated them (not much gloss!). installed this morning with new blue lug nuts (it seemed like a good idea? also, they are just painted, not anodized, so bummer). they look way nicer and I think the paint job is solid, but I do wish now that I'd just stopped with the bare brushed metal and clear coated them! I wanted a bit of shine. new Mitsu logo hub caps coming next week.

moonpost said:

spent all day on Sunday removing the coating on my old montero rims as the coatings were 'corroded' and curb rashed. various spinning wheel attachments on the drill, various sandpaper grits, and they looked pretty nice all clean and shiny (see note below). then primed them with filler primer and sprayed with metallic spray paint. didn't like the look so got another brand of metallic and re-sprayed and then gloss clear-coated them (not much gloss!). installed this morning with new blue lug nuts (it seemed like a good idea? also, they are just painted, not anodized, so bummer). they look way nicer and I think the paint job is solid, but I do wish now that I'd just stopped with the bare brushed metal and clear coated them! I wanted a bit of shine. new Mitsu logo hub caps coming next week.

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@moonpost Looks great! I've been thinking about doing mine, and it's helpful to hear of your experience. Those lug nuts are pretty! I also wondered about how bare metal might look. I wonder if my Dremel would be up to the job, with its various abrasive attachments.

By the way, I'm not one for tire-shining (used long ago when I was a teenager, and it always wore off so fast). But I had a bit of extra TriNova Plastic & Trim restorer on my sponge one day, and just for kicks went round the tires. So many months later (including winter/rainy driving), the tires still look far nicer (my father even thought I'd bought new ones)! You can see in the second where I didn't quite go round everything, and there's still a difference

DeliKit said:

@moonpost Looks great! I've been thinking about doing mine, and it's helpful to hear of your experience. Those lug nuts are pretty! I also wondered about how bare metal might look. I wonder if my Dremel would be up to the job, with its various abrasive attachments.

By the way, I'm not one for tire-shining (used long ago when I was a teenager, and it always wore off so fast). But I had a bit of extra TriNova Plastic & Trim restorer on my sponge one day, and just for kicks went round the tires. So many months later (including winter/rainy driving), the tires still look far nicer (my father even thought I'd bought new ones)! You can see in the second where I didn't quite go round everything, and there's still a difference

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yeah, I just used my drill and a brass wire brush and a couple of those synthetic 'wire' brushes. then 80, 220, 600 grit sand paper. those are nice wheels!

Tie rods , ball joints and a new cv axle
Time to schedule an alignment
Steering oh so tight mmmmmmmm

But wait there’s more welded up the ears & painted the shiniest satin i have ever sprayed

Reference:

Finally got to removing the cracked exhaust manifold.
The manifold had multiple cracks and caused some smoke in the engine bay (see pictures).
In addition I noticed that the metallic gasket between the turbo and the exhaust manifold was severely damaged (see first picture). The missing parts were either ingested by the turbo (ugh) or fell out during disassembly. My suspicion is that the (old) manifold was warped/cracked from too much heat. I am trying to keep the EGT (per gauge) below 1100F with a short-term max of 1300F during longer climbs. Previous owner fried the turbo, so I should have replaced the manifold at that time - oh well.

I didn't have a P/N for the 3-hole gasket, so I made one from scratch.

All back together, the motor sounds good again, just need to adjust the max boost pressure back to 14psi (after wrenching 12psi).
Also ordered a 1" NPT plug to replace the overpressure valve:

Finally replaced the single, JDM radio the van came with. I'm so pleased with how clean this looks with the stock plastic. Relatively easy to install and doesn't feel as bad as I thought from an aesthetic standpoint. I actually quite like it. And the increased functionality is just.. such a pleasure. High key recommend. Only thing is this screen doesn't get as bright as I'd like and the position can make it a bit hard to read.

blank1024 said:

Finally replaced the single, JDM radio the van came with. I'm so pleased with how clean this looks with the stock plastic. Relatively easy to install and doesn't feel as bad as I thought from an aesthetic standpoint. I actually quite like it. And the increased functionality is just.. such a pleasure. High key recommend. Only thing is this screen doesn't get as bright as I'd like and the position can make it a bit hard to read.

View attachment 22942View attachment 22941

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I went Boss as well, this scratched my itch

Newdeli said:

I went Boss as well, this scratched my itchView attachment 22943

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Dang wish I had that knob

Just returned from a 1700-mile road trip from Southern Idaho to Vancouver BC.
While we did sightseeing stuff, water plane ride, beach life, suspension bridge, great food, etc, the van got the following items worked on:

• new timing belt (OEM), new water pump (OEM), pulley's etc...
  the existing water pump was previously installed WITHOUT a gasket and just glued in place (with sealant) partially blocking the water flow.
• replaced all utility belts
• new side oil pan gasket (eliminated 99% of the pesky oil leak), also had no gasket, just sealant
• tightened the LOOSE crankshaft bolt and key (I got super lucky!), most of the vibrations are gone
• new radiator fan clutch
• new radiator hoses (OEM), since the silicone hoses were impossible to get leak-tight (too slippery)
• new thermostat (OEM)
• balancer spacer (missing) & sleeve
• fuel filter body and sensor, new filter
• replaced valve cover overpressure valve with a plug.
• previously fixed locally: AC hose leak and R12 recharge (not cheap) - blows cold until it hits +100F outside

Next:

• new Kicker rear speakers (almost done)
• fix the rear gate switch.
• the rear fan motor gave out (will be looking for a replacement or troubleshooting steps).
• RPM gauge is fluctuating
• Front shocks (very bouncy)

From Above:

• new Kicker rear speakers (DONE)
  Pretty easy to install, a few screws, then review the electrical diagram to find +/- and verify with a digital multimeter.
• fix the rear gate switch (DONE)
  removed and (carefully) opened the switch, cleaned it with contact cleaner, works for now!
• Front shocks (very bouncy) (DONE)
  had ordered Bilsteins AK1051 from delicausa.com
  

  L300 Front Bilstein shocks pair | DelicaUSA

  DELICA USA

  www.delicausa.com
  Removal of the old shocks was easy since they were easily compressed by hand = explaining the bounciness.
  Install was easy too, just needed a little "convincing" with a prybar and rubber mallet.
  The ride is much more comfortable, the bounce is gone. Eventually will have to address the remainder of the front end, tie-rods, control arms etc. Install took about 2 hrs from start to finish.
  
• the rear fan motor gave out (will be looking for a replacement or troubleshooting steps) (OPEN ISSUE)
  As I was tinkering with the fusible links, the rear fan motor came back on for a short while. Unfortunately, the screws that hold the motor in place are COMPLETLY rusted and brittle. Removing and testing will be the next step.
• RPM gauge is fluctuating (OPEN ISSUE)

Doin a full sexy service on the space toaster!

Just changed out the head gasket, installed the alloy half moon. Read a bunch about them, and how they sit proud. Mine was about 2mm out. Luckily I have a belt grinder and some high grit belts so sanded it back until it was less than a mm, including tapping it in with a piece of wood. Hoping with a dollop of goo it will seal! Also shot goo into the recess where gasket fits on the cover. Hoping very very much that is gives me a few less spots on the driveway. Fingers crossed.

Also did the air filter, and the fuel filter, however I got caught in the Sakura fc-1001 trap. AutoPartsOnline recommend it, and it kinda cross referenced, however I read something about it not really working well on another forum, so I might just get a Ryco Z304.

Gonna do the oil and filter too but first I'll see if this half moon seals!

Next is a catch can that isn't a water bottle holes on the side!

Preparing for a road trip up north several hours past Manila; previously replaced brake pads and shoes plus rotators and other brake parts, along with alternator and conversion of AC compressor to the new gas as well as inserted LED bulbs in the Delica rear door logo trim and added LED additional reverse lights. This week was new starter, new idle up controller, replaced the AC condenser fans (both) and cleaned battery terminals and connections as well as insert LED bulbs everywhere, headlights, fog lights, running lights, interior, etc.. as much as possible to reduce the load on the wiring. Also arranged 3D printing from the resources of the radio trim as mine was cracked which is next weeks install. Next week will install a replacement temp sensor which is on order.

Few on going projects

Still playing with the meth/ water injection. Good boost, lower temps but you go through it quickly.

Early mopar radiator, great cooling from 3 core. Needs some fabrication to fit but much cheaper and easier to get than the other aluminum alternatives. Stock shroud still works with a bit of cutting.

Replaced upper and lower bump stops with thinner profile ones from Amazon. Drop in fit no mods needed. Super cheap super easy. If you’re running your front bars super torqued for lift I highly recommend. Keeps you from siting on the bump stops.

Just finished ~1800 mi trip with the Deliwagon from Whidbey island WA to Yellowstone and back. Checked fluids and services AC before we left. Only issues was horn button stuck “on” for about half a min and she smoked for a couple min on first morning startup for about 2 min when above 7000ft. Other than that no issues.. I kept it at 60-65 mostly the whole way so the only vehicles not passing me were a few heavily loaded semi’s and the space shuttle crawler vehicle.. . Was a great and memorable experience!

I got new tires put on! Went with Toyo Open Country AT III, 235/75R15. Haven't done any exciting driving with them yet, but I'm really happy to have new tires.

Currently building a new safari style rack for the van! Fun fact I never knew till now, if you wear crocs while you weld your skill goes up 10%!

speedyquest said:

View attachment 23420
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Currently building a new safari style rack for the van! Fun fact I never knew till now, if you wear crocs while you weld your skill goes up 10%!

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I wear ear plugs now, after the burning ball cooled a first class headache set in & has yet to be beat,
Welding above my head and off set perfect shot really Jorden would be proud

My LHD conversion 1993 Starwagon is still in the mechanics have some more work done, list so far is:

• New KYB front shocks - Premium level as unable to easily and quickly obtain Bilstein's, etc. here in Manila.
• Complete / all ball joints in the front end as many rubbers had perished
• Dash removed, cleaned, and ac evaporator cleaned plus found a previous owner had bypassed the ac relay which had blown, so relay replaced and wiring repaired
• Wheel bearings front replaced.
• Wiring tided up under dash and around battery area.
• EGR system including inlet manifold plus turbo removed and being cleaned (soot/carbon build up being removed)
• Adding insulation under the engine covers in an effort to prevent heat transfer into the cabin
• Brake master cylinder being overhauled.

This adds to the already installed LED blubs, new radiator, hoses and fan, new brakes (discs, pads, etc. all round), new ac condenser fan motors, new idle up adjustor, new coolant temp sensor and associated parts. Had single DIN radio bracket printed as have doubt DIN radio installed on top of the Dash.

Future, install (on order) sliding mechanism on the passenger seat (noting that with my LHD conversion, the seat slider was moved to the LHS driver seat (battery side) over the large engine cover resulting in a real pain to remove the right hand front passenger seat when accessing engine. Need to replace the rear ac fan switch (on order).

Aiming to edit the 3D print file for the single DIN bracket so I can have a lower pocket OEM style with the top horizontal half blanked off as a future location for additional rocker switches for lights and remote head two way radio. Printed in 3D the heater switch panel but undecided if I will insert USB outlets or rocker switches in them for installing next to the power window switches. May have to replace the rear suspension in the future as the rear leaf springs look flat.

With future camping and touring in mind, looking to have curtains made for the rear and sides, not sure if I should have black out lining or just dark color to block/reduce the light. Purchased a high pressure washer which works great underneath and in the engine bay - need to use a few more times to remove built up road grime from past 30 years.

Spent way more than I thought I would on this project but worth the enjoyment when on the and off the road.