sokabrok
Member
Looks like a seat bolt.
What Did You Do for Your Van Today?
- Thread starter feetforbrains
- Start date
Newdeli
Active Member
So down to be of the first 100 of this thread
Delica put me to work !!!
How many times have you removed the driver seat for engine access ?
Today
Rear axle pinion seal
Timken 224570
Works with JDM 96 l300 4d56t
Rear heat box went pac-man tight at top open near bottom
removed failing foam and caulked it
Nothing more permanent than a temporary fix
Delica put me to work !!!
How many times have you removed the driver seat for engine access ?
Today
Rear axle pinion seal
Timken 224570
Works with JDM 96 l300 4d56t
Rear heat box went pac-man tight at top open near bottom
removed failing foam and caulked it
Nothing more permanent than a temporary fix
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Evil_MJ
New Member
I have another one lol!
active.world
Active Member
Over the weekend I installed some rear fog lamps to increase visibility of the van in bad weather as we head into winter. These are JW Speaker Model 170 Marker lights, each pulls just a few watts and are quite bright (I think theres 12 or 15 LED diodes inside the light). These are slightly brighter than the stock brake lights. For mounting, I had to round off the corners on the plastic backing plate of the light to fit perfectly to the spot on the bumper, and also painted them to match the bumper color (the light backing is white plastic). Wiring runs up through the bottom of the rear tail light and then to the front of the van to an independent always-powered switch on my dash. Id like to get these on the same circuit as the other lights so I get a warning noise if I leave them on, but I need to figure that out still.
For anyone else who plans to do this, install requires removal of the bumper (p. 51-8 in the shop manual), and requires cutting a 1.5" hole + two smaller holes for the mounting screws for each light. If you haven't removed your rear bumper before, be aware of the longer bolt thats just above 12 (right side) on the instructions diagram, the two bolts are accessible from under the van and not immediately obvious that its part of the bumper assembly (theres 4 others that are obvious). They are directly under the two holes in the back of the body as pictured below. This took me a while to figure that out.
For anyone else who plans to do this, install requires removal of the bumper (p. 51-8 in the shop manual), and requires cutting a 1.5" hole + two smaller holes for the mounting screws for each light. If you haven't removed your rear bumper before, be aware of the longer bolt thats just above 12 (right side) on the instructions diagram, the two bolts are accessible from under the van and not immediately obvious that its part of the bumper assembly (theres 4 others that are obvious). They are directly under the two holes in the back of the body as pictured below. This took me a while to figure that out.
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estrasil
Member
Started my air to water intercooler project today. Laid out parts that I had ordered (messed up when I sketched it out and made my parts list... somehow mistakenly didn't think about the direction of flow from the turbo to intake manifold, doh!). Looks like the parts will fit, but currently the driver side panel is interfering with the elbow going into the intake manifold, but it's only about 1/2 to 1 inch, and I think I can bang a dent into the double walled cover plate, or cut out a section of it to make it all fit. Just ordered all the parts to make up for missing items or things that don't work like initially planned. I'm quite hopeful, wish me luck.
The plan is to have the turbo outlet transition from 1.75" to 2" to a aluminum fin "pre-cooler", then step up to 2.25" for the air to water heat exchanger, and then step back down from 2.25" to 1.75" back into the intake manifold. I just took the existing intake manifold adapter and flipped it 180 degrees.
On the water end, I purchased a small radiator, electric pump, electric fan, and a "radiator cap" type fitting to add water. My plan is to puzzle these components in someplace up front. I will add switches to both the pump and the fan, so I can see how it performs with no water flowing vs water flowing vs fan running.
The plan is to have the turbo outlet transition from 1.75" to 2" to a aluminum fin "pre-cooler", then step up to 2.25" for the air to water heat exchanger, and then step back down from 2.25" to 1.75" back into the intake manifold. I just took the existing intake manifold adapter and flipped it 180 degrees.
On the water end, I purchased a small radiator, electric pump, electric fan, and a "radiator cap" type fitting to add water. My plan is to puzzle these components in someplace up front. I will add switches to both the pump and the fan, so I can see how it performs with no water flowing vs water flowing vs fan running.
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Jack_1653
New Member
Well I haven't been in the "dog house" in a while
But I have to say a starwagon isn't the worst place I've slept...
With tools at hand I've actually been able to pull a bunch of the inside panels and figure out why my rear speakers sound like crap lol
I was already planning on replacing them but at least I know how to get to them
But I have to say a starwagon isn't the worst place I've slept...
With tools at hand I've actually been able to pull a bunch of the inside panels and figure out why my rear speakers sound like crap lol
I was already planning on replacing them but at least I know how to get to them
JasonFazioPhotography
Active Member
Break any of the plastic side panels getting to the speakers?Well I haven't been in the "dog house" in a whileView attachment 25418
But I have to say a starwagon isn't the worst place I've slept...
With tools at hand I've actually been able to pull a bunch of the inside panels and figure out why my rear speakers sound like crap lol
View attachment 25419
I was already planning on replacing them but at least I know how to get to them
Jack_1653
New Member
Luckily no... I take my time and was sipping on some beer jamming.
There were two broken tabs that hold screws in the metal and one clip holder that were broken but I ended up finding almost all the pieces. With a 3D print pin I made the pieces I was missing and with some epoxy I was able to repair all three.
There were two broken tabs that hold screws in the metal and one clip holder that were broken but I ended up finding almost all the pieces. With a 3D print pin I made the pieces I was missing and with some epoxy I was able to repair all three.
weelsey
Member
did you put plastic back on or leave off. Probably broke some screws, eh?
Newdeli
Active Member
I was going to paint the plastic it would not adhere so classic me style nope leaving as is
Justincyoung
New Member
let us know if you figure out the rear fan and fluctuating RPM gauge! Both are issues for me as well!From Above:
- new Kicker rear speakers (DONE)
Pretty easy to install, a few screws, then review the electrical diagram to find +/- and verify with a digital multimeter.- fix the rear gate switch (DONE)
removed and (carefully) opened the switch, cleaned it with contact cleaner, works for now!- Front shocks (very bouncy) (DONE)
had ordered Bilsteins AK1051 from delicausa.com
Removal of the old shocks was easy since they were easily compressed by hand = explaining the bounciness.
Install was easy too, just needed a little "convincing" with a prybar and rubber mallet.
The ride is much more comfortable, the bounce is gone. Eventually will have to address the remainder of the front end, tie-rods, control arms etc. Install took about 2 hrs from start to finish.
View attachment 23117- the rear fan motor gave out (will be looking for a replacement or troubleshooting steps) (OPEN ISSUE)
As I was tinkering with the fusible links, the rear fan motor came back on for a short while. Unfortunately, the screws that hold the motor in place are COMPLETLY rusted and brittle. Removing and testing will be the next step.- RPM gauge is fluctuating (OPEN ISSUE)
WarezWard0
New Member
Replaced the 'keep-alive' wire that was supposed to be preventing the head unit from factory resetting every time I turned the engine off, and in the process established that because my van appears to be the base model, there's more than enough room to get hands and tools in to swap out the passenger-side loudspeaker...just got to find some replacement speakers now...
Newdeli
Active Member
Nawt really my experience wish it was ….
Guessing at this point rubbing it down with motor oil as plastic is made of the stuff maybe win maybe never
i personally tried this trick before with blow torch, the thing was working. i don't know for how long the result stay, thought
WarezWard0
New Member
I've been thinking I needed to try a heat gun on the bumper of my other car ('14 HV37 Skyline/Infiniti Q50) to reshape a dent that got made above one of the parking sensors (and therefore bent it out of alignment) but I've been too nervous about damaging it further to try tbh.
