Got a photo of your linkages? Extending the lever arm length makes the stroke length longer (longer arm, more angle, pulls further), but if you lengthen the arm you'll have to re-set the stopper free play using the outer cable adjusting nuts.
Kickdown cable adjustment: a conversation with @prayforsurf
- Thread starter Growlerbearnz
- Start date
Got a photo of your linkages? Extending the lever arm length makes the stroke length longer (longer arm, more angle, pulls further), but if you lengthen the arm you'll have to re-set the stopper free play using the outer cable adjusting nuts.
The free play at idle looks perfect, that's what you want to aim for when you've finished doing the adjustment(s) below.
In the video you appear to be *shortening* the linkage with the two 8mm bolts. That'll give you *less* stroke length, where you want more.
If you pull the linkage the other way (making it longer) you should be able to get to 34mm at full throttle. Once you've extended that linkage you'll have to re-check and adjust the free play at rest, and then possibly adjust the linkage length again, and adjust the free play again... round and round until you end up with everything within spec.
In the video you appear to be *shortening* the linkage with the two 8mm bolts. That'll give you *less* stroke length, where you want more.
If you pull the linkage the other way (making it longer) you should be able to get to 34mm at full throttle. Once you've extended that linkage you'll have to re-check and adjust the free play at rest, and then possibly adjust the linkage length again, and adjust the free play again... round and round until you end up with everything within spec.
Hmm. Try setting the arm to the longest it'll go, then adjusting the outer cable/nut to correct the free play, and *than* measure the travel. though it looks like you'll be lucky to get it to 35mm.
I wonder if the accelerator lever's just not moving far enough, what does the idle speed screw look like? Is it about halfway along its range or is it screwed most of the way in?
I wonder if the accelerator lever's just not moving far enough, what does the idle speed screw look like? Is it about halfway along its range or is it screwed most of the way in?
I'll try setting the arm to its longest setting, adjusting for free play, and then measuring travel, but I agree. Don't expect I'll get my 34-35mm. Nonetheless, I'll do my due diligence ! Happy to.
Just to be clear...the 1-2mm of free play we're talking about is the space between the stopper and the outer cable ? Or is it the "wiggle" that is present when you pull the cable slightly back and forth without actually pulling it out of the outer cable ?
Here is a picture of the IP, cable, idle screw etc. This does remind me that a few weeks ago I backed off the idle screw about 2.5 full turns. I was mostly idling around 1250-1450 (except when cold starting up...but it wouldn't take long before the revs climbed up over 1100). Anytime I had put it in D or N after being on for a few mins my revs would jump up. Think adjusting the idle screw has anything to do with this ? FWIW, my idle nowadays is so much more pleasant. Previously, I wouldn't even put in P when stopping to talk with someone, or watch the waves. I'd just leave it in D and keep my foot on the brake so I wouldn't have to listen to it roar.
IP.jpg
drive.google.com
Maybe you're right about the accelerator lever not moving through its full range ? It's not even hitting the throttle stop screw.
Alrighty! I think we're getting somewhere.
-The kickdown cable should always be under some tension (from memory though, so tell me if this makes no sense!) When the accelerator lever is at idle that's when the kickdown cable should have 1-2mm gap between the stopper and the outer cable. It shouldn't go loose though.
-What's preventing your accelerator lever from going all the way to the throttle stop? You want to figure that out first. Looks like maybe the plunger switch is a bit broken, twisting sideways and jamming up? Move the plunger switch back so it's not a factor. All it does it turn the AC off for 15 seconds when you hit full throttle, which makes no perceptible difference to acceleration.
Once you've got the lever moving to the throttle stop, check that when you press the accelerator pedal to the floor the lever moves all the way. The accelerator pedal gets bent over time and eventually hits the carpet before the lever hits the throttle stop. If so, just grab the pedal and haul it upwards a little, bending it back until you can hit the throttle stop. And then adjust the accelerator cable at the IP end, it should have just a little slack when at idle.
-Idle speed: also check that the AC idle-up lever isn't interfering with the accelerator lever. That's the bent-wire arm connected to that vacuum motor. The back of the vacuum motor has a rubber cover, pull that off to access the adjuster. Unlock lock nut (6mm?), screw adjuster in to lengthen the arm.
-The kickdown cable should always be under some tension (from memory though, so tell me if this makes no sense!) When the accelerator lever is at idle that's when the kickdown cable should have 1-2mm gap between the stopper and the outer cable. It shouldn't go loose though.
-What's preventing your accelerator lever from going all the way to the throttle stop? You want to figure that out first. Looks like maybe the plunger switch is a bit broken, twisting sideways and jamming up? Move the plunger switch back so it's not a factor. All it does it turn the AC off for 15 seconds when you hit full throttle, which makes no perceptible difference to acceleration.
Once you've got the lever moving to the throttle stop, check that when you press the accelerator pedal to the floor the lever moves all the way. The accelerator pedal gets bent over time and eventually hits the carpet before the lever hits the throttle stop. If so, just grab the pedal and haul it upwards a little, bending it back until you can hit the throttle stop. And then adjust the accelerator cable at the IP end, it should have just a little slack when at idle.
-Idle speed: also check that the AC idle-up lever isn't interfering with the accelerator lever. That's the bent-wire arm connected to that vacuum motor. The back of the vacuum motor has a rubber cover, pull that off to access the adjuster. Unlock lock nut (6mm?), screw adjuster in to lengthen the arm.
LOL I enjoy technical puzzles, and a Delica is full of them 
If the kickdown cable is adjusted correctly you should get the shift pattern in this chart:
Easy, eh! :-D
Solid lines are the upshift points, dashed lines are downshift (ignore those).The bars on the bottom convert output shaft speed to road speed. There's no bar for the usual 4.875 diff, so just use the 4.625 line, it's close enough.
Find the throttle opening you're interested in and follow it across until it hits the first solid upshift line, then look down at the 4.625 diff line to see what speed that shift should happen at.
So at 20% throttle opening (very light around town stuff) you'll shift from 1st-2nd around 12kph. 2nd-3rd around 18kph, 3rd-4th/OD around 45kph, and the clutch will lock up around 65kph. Shifts should be gentle and smooth.
At 100% throttle your shift points are 35, 70, and never (it'll never shift into 4th/OD). Shifts will be much harsher.
If the kickdown cable is adjusted correctly you should get the shift pattern in this chart:
Easy, eh! :-D
Solid lines are the upshift points, dashed lines are downshift (ignore those).The bars on the bottom convert output shaft speed to road speed. There's no bar for the usual 4.875 diff, so just use the 4.625 line, it's close enough.
Find the throttle opening you're interested in and follow it across until it hits the first solid upshift line, then look down at the 4.625 diff line to see what speed that shift should happen at.
So at 20% throttle opening (very light around town stuff) you'll shift from 1st-2nd around 12kph. 2nd-3rd around 18kph, 3rd-4th/OD around 45kph, and the clutch will lock up around 65kph. Shifts should be gentle and smooth.
At 100% throttle your shift points are 35, 70, and never (it'll never shift into 4th/OD). Shifts will be much harsher.
prayforsurf0
Active Member
Thanks for doing this.
@Oki-Hai had reached out in DMs with a similar issue and since growler had helped me privately I wanted to take the time to share the solution with him the same way growler took the time to help me.
To bring it full circle, it was in fact the plunger switch that was preventing the accelerator lever from hitting the throttle stop as seen in the video. Once I resolved that it brought my full throttle measurement much closer to spec and I was able to dial it in to spec from there.
EDIT: I’d also like to note that since I wasn’t getting that last 10% of accelerator cable range all along, once I got that plunger switch out of the way the van also had taken on a new pep in its step. At one point on the forums I was trying to figure out if it was normal to have the pedal to the floor, and the acceleration still very poor. Some people assured me that was normal but it somehow felt to me (without experience in these vans btw) that I was still missing some power. I checked the pedal itself to make sure it wasn’t bent down like growler has suggested checking multiple times on the forum, but the pedal was fine (my van only has 48000KM on it, so it’s old, but not actually driven that much). Fixing the accelerator cable range with the intention of getting the shifting dialed, also happily gave me the power I had instinctually felt was missing all along !
Now I NEVER put the pedal to the floor, but it’s nice to know I have the power if I need it, and it feels like the entire range of the pedal has become more sensitive and the van feels less of a dog.
@Oki-Hai had reached out in DMs with a similar issue and since growler had helped me privately I wanted to take the time to share the solution with him the same way growler took the time to help me.
To bring it full circle, it was in fact the plunger switch that was preventing the accelerator lever from hitting the throttle stop as seen in the video. Once I resolved that it brought my full throttle measurement much closer to spec and I was able to dial it in to spec from there.
EDIT: I’d also like to note that since I wasn’t getting that last 10% of accelerator cable range all along, once I got that plunger switch out of the way the van also had taken on a new pep in its step. At one point on the forums I was trying to figure out if it was normal to have the pedal to the floor, and the acceleration still very poor. Some people assured me that was normal but it somehow felt to me (without experience in these vans btw) that I was still missing some power. I checked the pedal itself to make sure it wasn’t bent down like growler has suggested checking multiple times on the forum, but the pedal was fine (my van only has 48000KM on it, so it’s old, but not actually driven that much). Fixing the accelerator cable range with the intention of getting the shifting dialed, also happily gave me the power I had instinctually felt was missing all along !
Now I NEVER put the pedal to the floor, but it’s nice to know I have the power if I need it, and it feels like the entire range of the pedal has become more sensitive and the van feels less of a dog.
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PhilipJ
Member
Hey y’all! Pinging this thread and also commented on @Oki-Hai post:
delicaforum.com
Having issues getting out of 3rd into 4th and I suspect it’s the linkage, kick down cable. Jumping up to High rpm then backing off used to work but is not anymore. I drove up a few hours and would like to figure it out before getting back on the road so I’m not stuck in 3rd!
Feeling a bit intimated by this process and hoping for some guidance. I have the manual but it seems that this thread has a lot of valuable information. Can anyone post a quick step by step troubleshoot of fixing this? Looks like it may be the plunger switch is not depressed all the way.
I also have low power and just had the engine tuned and EGT put in so I’m thinking this is the issue!
Thanks!
Delica L300 Automatic Transmission Shifting Issues
I'm having issues where if I am going up a slight hill or push my gas pedal even the slightest at high speeds, the transmission shifts into a lower gear. Like back and forth from 3rd to 4th but its rapid and unusual. I've changed the A/T transmission fluid already and checked its levels. Any...
delicaforum.com
Having issues getting out of 3rd into 4th and I suspect it’s the linkage, kick down cable. Jumping up to High rpm then backing off used to work but is not anymore. I drove up a few hours and would like to figure it out before getting back on the road so I’m not stuck in 3rd!
Feeling a bit intimated by this process and hoping for some guidance. I have the manual but it seems that this thread has a lot of valuable information. Can anyone post a quick step by step troubleshoot of fixing this? Looks like it may be the plunger switch is not depressed all the way.
I also have low power and just had the engine tuned and EGT put in so I’m thinking this is the issue!
Thanks!
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If you can't get it to kick into 4th at any speed (e.g. light throttle @ 80km/h) then I would guess it is the solenoid and not the cable. It's on the left side of the transmission... with the key on have someone turn OD on/off; you should be able to feel/hear the solenoid switching.
It could also be the transmission operating pressure is off and needs adjusted... but IDT the throttle position cable can be that far out of adjustment unless it's just disconnected/missing.
That linkage is incorrectly adjusted (Red). See how the slotted piece is all the way to one end? That's not right.
I can see marks on the slotted piece where the washers used to be, which show it used to be set to around the middle point of its range of adjustment.
I'd make it that length again (loosen the two shiny bolts, slide it along, retighten), then adjust the cable until it's within spec (Loosen the two nuts on the cable (Green) and wind them up or down the cable end to make the cable tighter or looser.)
One question I still have....
If the cable is less than spec (34-35mm), then your transmission will _____ (Shift up too late? Shift up too early?)
Conversely, if the cable is MORE than spec (34-35mm), then your transmission will _____ (Shift up too early? Shift up too late?)
Just trying to figure out what people might need to do, when they are in spec (according to the measurements of the cable) but up shifts are still delayed?
Cable too short (shorter than 35mm) at full throttle = slow, lazy, slippy shifts that happen too early/at low revs (transmission thinks you're driving gently at half throttle, when in reality you've got your foot buried in the carpet)
Cable too long = late shifting at high revs, harsh shifting, possibly even staying in 3rd (transmission thinks you've got the accelerator pinned all the time and shifts like you're racing).
Cable too long = late shifting at high revs, harsh shifting, possibly even staying in 3rd (transmission thinks you've got the accelerator pinned all the time and shifts like you're racing).
Schradebrigade
New Member
louistully
New Member
Thank you for this post. It explains why my transmission suddenly had trouble shifting on my way home from Mt St Helen’s.
Now to find that bolt…
Now to find that bolt…
Schradebrigade
New Member
Oh dang. Wasn’t there when you opened the hood? Try your hardware store.