Whoops! It's just a plain pin with a split pin to stop it coming out, but a small bolt with nyloc nut would work.
Kickdown cable adjustment: a conversation with @prayforsurf
- Thread starter Growlerbearnz
- Start date
weelsey
Member
I'm wondering what slop in the plastic arm ball joints does to the adjustments. I'd be super pleased to have the delay between 4 and lockup that's shown on the shift chart, but I'd be happy with being able to keep 4th a little longer. In spec, I don't achieve the best performance. Slackening the cable under the 1-2mm does better with a medium-ish throw. If I had tighter linkage, what would be achieving?
At idle, the kickdown cable should still be pulling on the linkage. It should not be loose.
A good cable adjusted with a 1-2mm gap at idle will maintain spring tension on the plastic link, which takes up any slop in the ball joints. If your plastic link is loose at idle, then your kickdown cable is not pulling on the linkage.
Too loose at idle means the gearbox thinks you're accelerating more gently than you actually are, and it'll upshift/lockup early rather than holding the lower gear.
I can think of 2 reasons why the kickdown cable might not be pulling on the linkage at idle:
-Binding pivot point on the cable to link lever (unlikely but worth checking)
-Stretched kickdown cable (most likely). If you disconnect the cable (remove the pivot pin from the fork), the cable should pull itself into the sheath until the little stopper hits the outer cable. If your cable has stretched, it will run out of spring before the stopper hits the outer cable, leaving the cable loose with a gap between the stopper and the outer cable.
If it runs out of spring and leaves a gap, then you'll need to take that gap into account when setting the stopper position at idle. Add 1-2mm to the gap, and use that as your stopper-to-outer cable distance.
If it's stretched, it might be that the other end of the cable is failing. Here's a thread where @petervanschie had a cable repaired at a motorcycle shop. Just be aware that @Tbizzy23 has a petrol engine, so their kickdown cable is different (doesn't have a forked end).
A good cable adjusted with a 1-2mm gap at idle will maintain spring tension on the plastic link, which takes up any slop in the ball joints. If your plastic link is loose at idle, then your kickdown cable is not pulling on the linkage.
Too loose at idle means the gearbox thinks you're accelerating more gently than you actually are, and it'll upshift/lockup early rather than holding the lower gear.
I can think of 2 reasons why the kickdown cable might not be pulling on the linkage at idle:
-Binding pivot point on the cable to link lever (unlikely but worth checking)
-Stretched kickdown cable (most likely). If you disconnect the cable (remove the pivot pin from the fork), the cable should pull itself into the sheath until the little stopper hits the outer cable. If your cable has stretched, it will run out of spring before the stopper hits the outer cable, leaving the cable loose with a gap between the stopper and the outer cable.
If it runs out of spring and leaves a gap, then you'll need to take that gap into account when setting the stopper position at idle. Add 1-2mm to the gap, and use that as your stopper-to-outer cable distance.
If it's stretched, it might be that the other end of the cable is failing. Here's a thread where @petervanschie had a cable repaired at a motorcycle shop. Just be aware that @Tbizzy23 has a petrol engine, so their kickdown cable is different (doesn't have a forked end).
Hi all,
Resurrecting this thread for a related question -- I am trying to source a kickdown cable for a 1987 US market L300, aka Mitsu Wagon. This is a 2.4l gasoline/petrol engine and obviously an automatic trans.
Does the cable cross over to any other Mitsu vehicles? I know the Mighty Max/Ram 50 used this engine and possibly the same trans. I've found other parts -- cylinder head and exhaust mani -- searching for the pickup. Parts for the LHD L300 are thin on the ground!
Will the cable for a similar year Montero/Pajero work? Seems like those were carbureted and the L300 is FI.
Thx
T
Resurrecting this thread for a related question -- I am trying to source a kickdown cable for a 1987 US market L300, aka Mitsu Wagon. This is a 2.4l gasoline/petrol engine and obviously an automatic trans.
Does the cable cross over to any other Mitsu vehicles? I know the Mighty Max/Ram 50 used this engine and possibly the same trans. I've found other parts -- cylinder head and exhaust mani -- searching for the pickup. Parts for the LHD L300 are thin on the ground!
Will the cable for a similar year Montero/Pajero work? Seems like those were carbureted and the L300 is FI.
Thx
T
It looks like the part number is MD609351 and it still seems to be available from Mitsubishi. It was only fitted to the US market van/wagon up to 1989, and some JDM P03W models.
Thomascrom
Member
Reliving the story of many here, I think that my vehicle has this cable in a bad position, I see it very linked although I have not measured it, today I felt that if I engage 4th speed but very quickly, the changes are almost all simultaneous, and if you have having the pedal stuck to the floor as if the accelerator lacked travel, I think that around here I have the problem of going 100km/h at 3k rpm and feeling that the vehicle is forced... any ideas?