L300 Delica leaf window to sliding window swap & weatherstrip replacement.

Growlerbearnz

Growlerbearnz

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detroadster said:
EPC also shows a MB478210 "Runchannel, Qtr Window, RH) for my van which I assume is the far rear RH (Driver's Side) sliding window run channel.
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I think that's correct- right side rear sliding window run channel.

silverstate said:
For edification &/or clarification in a Random Parts list you posted last year you listed these numbers: Rear window weather strips (leaf windows): MB859144, MB683061, MB416393
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There's some confusion here. L300s came with two different style of windows: sliding windows, and leaf windows. They use different seals.
Sliding windows:
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Sliding windows are usually fitted to the left and right front (sliding door and the window behind the driver), and often to the right rear window. The left rear window is usually fixed glass to prevent amputations.

Run channel (felted weatherstrip) part numbers for short wheelbase vans with sliding windows:
Right Front (driver's side): MB416314
Left front (sliding door): MB416313
Right rear (if fitted): MB478210
Left rear (if fitted, LHD Mitsubishi Van/Wagon for instance): MB478209

Leaf windows:
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Just a single pane of glass, hinged at the front, with a latch at the rear to let the back edge pop out a couple of inches. These windows use a rubber seal similar to the tailgate seal. Leaf windows are normally fitted to the drivers side front and rear, and the left side rear. The window in the sliding door is normally fixed.

Weather strip part numbers for RHD short wheelbase vans with leaf windows:
Right front (driver's side): MB683060
Right rear: MB859144
Left rear: MB683061

Long wheelbase vans have different part numbers for the rearmost windows, since they're longer. LWB vans also sometimes have sliding windows on the sliding door side.

Window seals are still available from the usual suspects: Amayama.com, Partsouq, etc.
 
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Got the quarter window and full window behide the driver (rhd) and I need help finding the weather strip parts number. I have a exceed and have searched around with much confusion . Being 18 with a delica doesn’t help.
Thanks
 
Evan at DelicaWorks on FB can get brand new ones out of Taiwan, had him send me a few. Now actually getting them installed is still a mystery to me. They've been sitting in my basement for months.
 
natematos said:
That would be awesome. If you're in PDX I'll buy you some beer, if you're not in PDX I'll drink some beer in your honor.
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Haha I’m from Vancouver island a bit north of you.
I’ll make it tomorrow as I leak tested the window and need to buy some double sided foam tape.
 
natematos said:
Wow! Do you have a step by step or anything? I got turned off when I talked to a glass shop and they said it would be hours of work to replace.
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Here’s a little step by step. It’s very simple once you do it.

1) remove the screws for the window
2) remove the seal around the window with your fingers (should come out fairly easily)

you should have this once your done

https://imgur.com/a/BFB2FhR

After the window is removed get the slider ready
Attach some foam tape for windows ( I did this and I messed the corners up so take your time on the corners or just use silicone like I ended up using)

https://imgur.com/a/L9SePlx

you should have a weatherstrip for around the sliding windows and it attaches the windows to the body of the van.

https://imgur.com/a/XsH6eZW

1) get someone to help you to push the window in
2) push the window into the van to seal it all around
3) put the weather strip in so it stays in


https://imgur.com/a/YSSiWg5


And your done!
 
@91delica it seems like you swapped your “butterfly” style windows for the sliders, which is a pretty popular mod. I imagine your guide will be quite helpful to others looking to do the same.
 
Any of you gents in Seattle by chance? Would love to watch as you do the replacement so i can see what I'm in for when I do mine. I'm happy to lend a hand as well.
 
To replace the sliding window channel seal, remove the sliding window from the van by first removing the Interior weatherstrip:
(The soft, flexible, textured, pushed-on trim piece around the windows. Pictured here already removed from a van because I don't have a van with sliding windows any more):

trim.png

Wait, there's a photo in the previous post. Remove this part:

Trim2.png

Removed:
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Beneath the weatherstrip there might be some (rusty) metal clips, or they might come off with the weatherstrip. When the weatherstrip and rusty clips are all removed, the window will fall out. Unless someone's glued it in. If the glue between the window frame and body is sticky, warm it up with a hairdryer until it's soft. If the glue is rubbery, it might be silicone or urethane and you're going to have to carefully get a knife between the window frame and body and cut the glue. Without scratching the paint. Not fun. Try the hairdryer first.

Anyway, removed window:

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If only one of your window panes slides, there will be a plastic stopper to hold the fixed pane in place. Find the screw and remove the plastic stopper.

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On a piece of carpet or other durable but soft surface: Slide both panes to the middle of the window.
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Put your foot on the lower edge of the frame, and lift the top edge of the frame upwards- stretching the frame open just enough until the glass falls out. Letting the glass fall outwards is easier than inwards. Be sure to wear your sexiest gumboots and gardening/climbing-under-the-house-for-car-parts pants.
3200

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Pay attention to the drain holes and corner cuts on the old channel rubber before removing it, and make sure your new channel rubber has drain holes etc. in the same places. OEM window rubbers are left or right handed, if the drain holes don't line up you might be trying to fit a left into a right.

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If your new channel rubber is a bit long don't cut it just yet, compress it when you install it to help it settle into the corners and to allow for shrinkage. For reference, if installed uncompressed I'd say you want about 1-2 inch of overlap. Once you start compressing it and forcing it hard into the corners that overlap will go away real quickly.

If you're reinstalling the glass on your own, a plastic spatula/scraper/spudger is handy between the top of the glass and the frame to protect the edge of the glass from the metal frame. Get the glass positioned and then remove the spudger, allowing the glass to move into its groove. If you have an assistant it's a bit easier.
 
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