L400 2.8L A/T Low Power on Takeoff (kick down cable? TPS?)

Foundmine

Member
So I’m in central Mexico on a 6-7 month “overland” journey and I am having some A/T troubles. The van is a 1996 2.8L diesel LWB, automatic transmission. I am approaching the point of ordering some parts, but I can’t quite figure out what parts I need, or what is even happening to my transmission. I have made one attempt at fixing the issue a few weeks ago, at the recommendation of the mechanics at Nomadic Van, the dealer from whom I bought the Delica. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

The van has reduced power on take off with the transmission in “D”, with O/D on, and the transfer case in 2WD, essentially in normal road driving conditions. The engine revs as normal, and some power gets to the wheels - the van does move, just slowly, until it reaches maybe 20kph, then shifting is essentially normal. Highway driving feels essentially normal, although I am second guessing that. The O/D switch is functioning, the light illuminates on the dash when the O/D is selected, and I can feel a change in the transmission and see a difference in revs. On startup, the A/T light flashes as normal, but when driving the A/T light is not illuminated. There are no other warning lights illuminated on the dash. It feels very much like the van is taking off in 2nd. The “HOLD/PWR” switch seems to be working - the lights illuminate on the dash.

When I shift the van into “L” the problem goes away and there is a normal amount of power at the wheels, and taking off from stopped feels normal. Of course, the van doesn’t shift into 2nd gear when in “L”, but the van does not have reduced power on take off. When I shift into “2” from “L”, the van acts as I believe it should, sometime shifting with a bit of a hard shift if I have over revved a little, but otherwise normal.

I contacted Nomadic Van, and after a little diagnosing over a sub-par international cell connection, I was advised to inspect and adjust the throttle kick down cable. Upon inspection the measurements looked to be roughly 1-2mm at idle and 34-35mm at wide open throttle, which I believe are in specification. However, at idle the cable had a noticeable amount of slack. I believe the cable should have little slack, or even be under very minor tension at idle. I adjusted the two larger nuts (12mm or 14mm, I can’t recall) to remove the slack. The sleeve moved maybe 10mm, shortening the cable length between the adjustment point and the lever mounted on the injection pump. I didn’t touch the smaller nuts that adjust the lever on the injection pump. I replaced the intercooler and test drove, and everything felt fine - the van had power at takeoff, and the rest of the shifts were fine, maybe a little harder/sharper. I assumed this was because the cable is original and is stretching a little. I treated this fix as a road fix, and I assumed it would drive the same until I could order a new cable.

Yesterday, maybe 1000km after the initial adjustment mentioned above, the issue came back. All the symptoms were the same, with the possible addition of my highway rpms being a little higher than normal (2500ish rpms at 90-100kph) but this may not be an accurate as driving in Mexico is hectic and may have affected my observation. Today, the issue was gone, and the van drove as normal, or at least had power on take off. The highway rpms may still be elevated, but the caveats of difficulty of observation still stand. The primary issue, low power on take off, were gone, with no discernible action from me.

Any advice would be great. Until then, I am holed up at a campground in the central Mexican mountains, eating tacos and drinking coffee and playing fetch with my dog.
 
Sounds like a nice place to be broken down at least! I don’t know what your symptoms tell us, but things that come to mind in a general sense, possibly not applicable to your van are, fuel filter, lift pump, turbo problems, transmission fluid level, trans fluid pump issues, overdrive sensors/solenoids,
 
Sounds like a nice place to be broken down at least! I don’t know what your symptoms tell us, but things that come to mind in a general sense, possibly not applicable to your van are, fuel filter, lift pump, turbo problems, transmission fluid level, trans fluid pump issues, overdrive sensors/solenoids,
I will be doing a minimal service when I reach my next long term destination in a few days (oil change, air filter change, fuel filter check). I think it is transmission related because I have “full power” when I shift into L, and the problem is only on takeoff from stopped in “D”. I assume if it was related to the IP, injectors, turbo, etc, I would encounter the problem even when I manually shift into L. Does that sounds right?
 
Wonder if the cable is frayed and needs replaced
I am wondering that as well. The cable, at least on the throttle pedal side looks pretty good, so I’m not sure if it is original. If it is original, its 26 years old and some fraying/stretching makes sense to me. Does anyone know where to get one? I am also wondering if there is any cross over in parts to the modern L200, i see a bunch of those driving around down here.
 



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Don't take my word for it... I don't have an L400
 
Wow thanks, just rented a house to be able to get this job done. Now I have to figure out if I can get that shipped down here or if I should look for it locally. I will keep everyone updated on my progress.

Any advice on whether or not the throttle cable is the likely culprit will be greatly appreciated.
 
I will be doing a minimal service when I reach my next long term destination in a few days (oil change, air filter change, fuel filter check). I think it is transmission related because I have “full power” when I shift into L, and the problem is only on takeoff from stopped in “D”. I assume if it was related to the IP, injectors, turbo, etc, I would encounter the problem even when I manually shift into L. Does that sounds right?

Have you checked the TPS for proper voltage?

Also does Hold/Power button change the way the transmission acts? It should.

I think the Hold position starts in 2nd. I could be wrong on that.
 
Any advice on whether or not the throttle cable is the likely culprit will be greatly appreciated.
Well, since adjusting it fixed the issue before, I would say it's probable. But it would be better to identify what the specific issue is... I'm not a big fan of just throwing parts at a problem.
 
Update to my transmission problem: A few days ago I attempted a hilly drive to the nearest Autozone. That morning the original issue was present again, lack of power on takeoff. The same symptoms existed as before: van felt like it was starting in 2nd, would shift into first if selected “L”, otherwise “2” and “D” had little power on take off.

During the drive the A/T light began flashing. I didn’t notice exactly when the light began flashing, but I believe I had disengaged overdrive moments before it began flashing. Overdrive switched off like normal, minor bump from the trans as it shifted down. No discernible change to power or drivability. Coolant temps were around 200F per my aftermarket gauge, a little higher than normal but not by much. I pulled over and kept the engine running until my EGT gauge was under 350F, maybe 2 minutes. I discussed options with my passengers for maybe 5 minutes. I restarted the van and turned around to head back home, the A/T light was no longer flashing. I checked the ATF fluid with the van in “N” and the parking break on, it read between the “HOT” marks and looked read and clear. No change in drivability, original issue still present. The van was now in O/D. I toggled O/D off and on while doing maybe 45KPH, no change in gearing and the A/T light didn’t illuminate. A few minutes later, at a higher speed and maybe under light throttle I toggled O/D off, felt a change in gearing, and the A/T light began flashing. I drove the van home and parked it.

The next day I drove it to a local mechanic in the small town where I am staying. His code reader pulled code 41 from the TCM. I confirmed by watching the A/T light flash four long and one short. No other codes were present. We confirmed there is vacuum at one of the vacuum hose junctions behind the intercooler, so I don’t think a lack of vacuum is the issue. When we checked vacuum the ABS light illuminated, so I think the vacuum lines are good.

Does this sound like it could be associated with the original problem?

We’re having trouble locating parts for this van here in Mexico. Autozone can’t source the three sensors/solenoids he thinks are the culprits. I am considering getting a box of parts sent here via DHL so we have some options.

Our other option is to drop the transmission pan and clean everything and shops that one of the solenoids is just gummed up. Thoughts?
 
Hi Foundmine - I’ve been dealing with the exact same issue for the past week, same rig.
I've done all of the basics; changed al filters, flushed the ATF...still starting in 2nd with little to no power. Alternately, L shows all of the power you'd expect from first gear.
I'm now into adjusting the throttle cable (2x 12MM locknut adjustment), the little sliders (2x 8MM bolts), and the TPS (2x screw and rotate).
I'm hoping that the issue will be resolved by some magical combination of those three adjustments.
I'm fairly close w/ the team @ Nomadic, great people, and they've been helping. I recently towed the rig there (from Bend, OR to Ketchum, ID) for a big service.
Sorry that I don't have any hard "answers" or "solutions" for you, but maybe you can try with those three adjustments as well...I feel like I'm definitely getting closer to the solution.

@Scott - mentioned the TPS voltage...i've attached a guide that someone posted...maybe the mechanic has a multimeter that you can use; although, I'm also not certain what TPS voltage specs should be...this fella seems to lock in at .78 volts.
 

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  • ADJUSTING_THE_TPS.pdf
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@Foundmine - just found this post, mentions Error Code 41 related to a throttle valve solenoids that may be bad.
 
Hi Foundmine - I’ve been dealing with the exact same issue for the past week, same rig.
I've done all of the basics; changed al filters, flushed the ATF...still starting in 2nd with little to no power. Alternately, L shows all of the power you'd expect from first gear.
I'm now into adjusting the throttle cable (2x 12MM locknut adjustment), the little sliders (2x 8MM bolts), and the TPS (2x screw and rotate).
I'm hoping that the issue will be resolved by some magical combination of those three adjustments.
I'm fairly close w/ the team @ Nomadic, great people, and they've been helping.
It’s comforting to know that someone else is having the same original issue. As mentioned, I adjusted the 2x 12MM locknuts. I felt more comfortable doing that rather than adjusting the slider after reading some forum posts about how the system is supposed to work. My understanding is the 12MM locknuts are intended for fine tuning, and the 8MM slider is not really supposed to be altered once it is set.

I assumed that if adjusting the locknuts helped alleviate the symptoms and got 1st gear back, then everything would be good until either the cable stretched more (if that’s what caused the issue in the first place) or the cable broke fully. However, the issue has been intermittent, which leads me to believe it isn’t as simple as the cable stretching or a failure in the mechanical linkage. Some days I have 1st and some days I don’t. Some days I start driving and I have 1st, and then I lose it. “Power cycling” the van doesn't seem to do anything, and I haven’t seen any correlation between ambient temps or engine temps and having or not having 1st gear. There has been no fluctuation in ATF level, its been at the top of the dipstick when hot and in neutral, engine running. To add more mystery, when the problem first arose I could get 1st gear back by shifting into “L” and then shifting back into “D”.

I haven’t checked the TPS yet, its been on my to-do list but I’ve been too busy kayaking and eating tacos here in Mexico. I am going to check it either today or tomorrow. Thanks for the step-by-step document, that’s very helpful.

I don’t know if code 41 has anything to do with the original issue. Also, that throttle valve post linked above says its for a Series 2 and that a Series 1 doesn’t use the same system. Can anyone confirm that?

I’ve already paid for a consultation with Nomadic Van and I’m going to shoot them an email right now and pay for another. I hope our problems are similar enough that one solution will help both of us.
 
If your A/T light is flashing, that's not an engine error code, it's a transmission error code. Engine error codes are different and show up via a flashing check engine light. (There are also ABS codes that show up by blinking the ABS light - so three different sets of error codes in total.)

I've never dealt with transmission errors personally, but this post looks helpful. It says transmission code 41 is "Open Solenoid No. 1 Circuit" and has some troubleshooting tips futher down.
 
I got around to checking the TPS today, following the instructions in the document linked above. My reading was 4.93V, which is pretty far off the target of 0.78V. I believe I did everything correctly but that reading is so out of spec that I am concerned I am mistaken somewhere.

I found what I believe to be the TPS, although the three digit number on my unit is different than that in the inspection/adjustment directions (theirs said 423, mine says 571). I traced the wiring harness back to a blue/red wire and tested voltage with the ignition switch “ON” but not running. I grounded to the negative terminal on one of my two batteries.

My questions: is this the culprit? Is such a high reading indicative of a failed TPS or do I just need to loosen the screws and adjust?
 
My reading was 4.93V, which is pretty far off the target of 0.78V. I believe I did everything correctly but that reading is so out of spec that I am concerned I am mistaken somewhere.

Reading so close to 5V suggests you're measuring the wrong wire. Your test procedure is correct, but what were the voltages on the other two wires?

One wire will be 5V (that's the power supply to the TPS), one will be 0V (earth: usually the black wire), and remaining wire will should be somewhere between those readings and will should rise and fall as you move the accelerator linkage.

If you find one earth/ 0V wire and two 5V wires then yes, you have a failed TPS.

The number on the TPS is some kind of manufacturer's code (Tolerance sorting?) and doesn't change how the TPS works.
 
Reading so close to 5V suggests you're measuring the wrong wire. Your test procedure is correct, but what were the voltages on the other two wires?
Ok, I was just reading through some other forum posts (which I should have done before posting) and I see discovered the same thing. Procedure is correct, but I was testing the supply wire, blue/red, and I need to check the signal wire, blue/yellow.

The blue/yellow wire reads 0.88V at no throttle and 4.18V at full throttle with what looked to be a smooth transition, no flat spots or gaps.
 
The blue/yellow wire reads 0.88V at no throttle and 4.18V at full throttle with what looked to be a smooth transition, no flat spots or gaps.
Damn. That's close enough to 0.78V that it's unlikely to be the problem.

Looking at the hydraulic circuit (RWD-V4AW3 section 23B) I'd guess you've lost shift solenoid 1. Could be a break in the wiring (either main wiring loom or inside the transmission), or it might be gunked up. An intermittent break in the wiring would explain the fault code.
The hydraulic circuit diagram seems to show that manually selecting 1st mechanically bypasses/overrides the shift solenoid, which explains why you still get full power when selecting 1st.

I think your next step is to test the solenoid using the diagnostic steps in the transmission fault codes post (assuming you haven't done that already. This thread TL;DR.)

If the solenoid is showing open circuit, you might have to drop the transmission pan and see if the wiring for the shift solenoids is accessible. With some luck you can remove the solenoid without having to pull the entire hydraulic control block: read the service manual first.

Also I want photos. :)

If you can't fix it in time, then manually selecting 1st whenever starting out should be safe. Inconvenient, but better than burning out the 2nd gear clutch pack from repeated standing starts.
 
I checked the TPS with the van running and got a reading of 0.95V. Believing the perfect value to be around 0.78V, I set the TPS to roughly that value, and checked for flat spots in in voltage with throttle movement. Took the van for a very short test drive, and the shift issue was still present, but no A/T codes.

Today I adjusted the kick down cable a couple more millimeters to further tighten the cable at idle. There was a very small amount of slack in the cable at idle, much less than the original amount. At the current adjustment there is no slack on the cable and throttle movement immediately provides tension, however I am essentially out of threads on the 12MM nuts. The cable is completely tightened on the fine adjustment. I have not moved the lever attached by the 8MM bolts.

The van felt like it ran properly, although maybe a hair down on throttle, I assume due to the readjustment of the TPS. I reinstalled the intercooler and took it for a test drive, shift points felt like they were in the ballpark, power from a standing start was better, there was a slightly noticeable difference between starting in “HOLD” and starting in 1st, but not as pronounced as it used to be when I first purchased the van. Overdrive worked properly and the OD switch worked, with a noticeable down shift when OD was disengaged via the switch at 75-80KPH.

No A/T lights (other than at startup) and no signs of overheating. I did notice one “hiccup” driving at low speed low throttle around town when coming back home. I assume it is form my adjustments not being perfect. The hiccups feel like a wonky downshift from 2nd to 1st or maybe 2nd to 1st to 2nd.

Any thoughts? Should I adjust the lever end of the kickdown cable to get the 12MM adjustment nuts back into the middle of the threaded collar, or let good enough be good enough for now?
 
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