Oil Change

Self.

every 5k miles

t5 rotella shell 15w40 (assuming you have a diesel)

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Not hard at all.
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Biggest thing is to make sure you have the oil filter. Mechanic won't have those. I order mine. Get it from fitinpart.sg

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Same for fuel filter and air filter. If you're doing an order, might as well get them all at once, and may enough for 2-3 changes.
 
Oil pan and air filter are both on the driver (right hand) side, just a bit behind the front wheel. I can do my change without lifting or jacking up the van at all.

If you have a son over the age of 4, have him do the change with you.
 
I saved this a while ago. Can’t find it now to give you the actual link. Hope it helps. (There’s also a super mediocre video of a guy in South Asia changing the brakes and oil on an L300. You might want to look at that too):
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Just got done with my first oil change, well kind of. Got it drained out, filter changed and filled back up but when I started it up oil poured out the bottom. I haven't been able to look to see where it might be coming from but it looks like the filter. It was getting dark so I didn't have time to clean up the mess and inspect. I used a Sakura oil filter C-1008-1 that I got from Rising Sun. It states it is interchangeable with MD 069782. I only hand tightened it. Anything else I might have done wrong?
 
Just got done with my first oil change, well kind of. Got it drained out, filter changed and filled back up but when I started it up oil poured out the bottom. I haven't been able to look to see where it might be coming from but it looks like the filter. It was getting dark so I didn't have time to clean up the mess and inspect. I used a Sakura oil filter C-1008-1 that I got from Rising Sun. It states it is interchangeable with MD 069782. I only hand tightened it. Anything else I might have done wrong?

Did you remember to put the plug back in? Did you put the copper washer back on? Was the washer in good shape?

After an oil change, the leak is only going to be coming from one of two places; the sump plug or the filter. I covered the sumo plug above.

You might have cross threaded the filter. You might not have tightened quite enough.

Or that filter might not fit. Not what I use, so unsure.

Those are the only possibilities I can think of.
 
Sometimes the old filter's seal sticks to the bracket and gets left behind when you remove the filter. If you install a new filter over the top of the old seal it all goes a bit wrong.
Or your new filter might not have had a seal? (Though you're supposed to lubricate the seal with engine oil before installing the filter, so I expect you would have noticed).

Hopefully you still have the old filter somewhere so you can compare the dimensions.

Oil change interval for a 4D56 is every 5000km, with filter every 10,000km (every second oil change). These engines are an old design and put a lot of soot into their oil, while working the oil hard thanks to the oil squirters and balance shafts. They're quite well known for increased wear when oil changes are neglected.
 
Napa 1067 or wix 50167 (same thing, different boxes) will work and stocked at almost all napa stores -- 15w40 as others have mentioned. 7L is pretty much where I have averaged with a topsider.
 
I change oil and filter every 5000 km with a new copper washer every time.
I also just changed the o-ring on oil dipstick tube. It was leaking and looked like the rear main seal was bad.
The old o-ring was hard as a rock and broke into bits.
 
I run synthetic oil and change oil/filter every 10k KM... but I don't do a lot of adverse driving with it (i.e. city traffic/idling), although I do a fair bit of offroad/dirt.

FWIW, some late model installations of the 4D56T have the oil change interval out to 10k/20k, but most have a 7.5k/15k interval (I think there's a sump/filter capacity difference)... interestingly my translated owner's manual seems to indicate 20k.
BTW, those numbers are for severe/normal use.
 
There is some good info about synthetic oil at the tdiclub forum. There was a post from a tech there (couldnt find it or would have posted it), basically saying not to change synthetics too early as a majority of the lubricating and detergent properties of full syn. are activated with the prolonged heat and pressure of a diesel engine over longer periods. By changing too soon, you miss out on the good stuff. I ran my FJ80 (gas) and TDI Passat at 10k miles between changes. I put 110k miles on the land cruiser (from 140k when I bought it to 250k when I sold it) and probably 80k on the TDI. Not conclusive, but I understand the theory.
 
saying not to change synthetics too early as a majority of the lubricating and detergent properties of full syn. are activated with the prolonged heat and pressure of a diesel engine over longer periods.
Sounds like nonsense to me... the oil isn't as good until it's been worn in??? But yeah, if you're changing the oil every 3k you're just as well running cheaper dino oil.

I haven't changed oil at 3k mi since we stopped having to punch holes in the can...
 
Do you know the size in that washer? Kinda a pain to match with the old one unless I do the oil change in the parts store's parking lot!
parts diagram specifies part#MD050317; 14.2mm id/19mm od. But that's a crush washer/gasket and not a flat copper washer/gasket. Any specified for a 14mm drain plug should work I would think.
 
Self.

every 5k miles

t5 rotella shell 15w40 (assuming you have a diesel)

____________________________

Not hard at all.
__________________________


Biggest thing is to make sure you have the oil filter. Mechanic won't have those. I order mine. Get it from fitinpart.sg

_____________________________

Same for fuel filter and air filter. If you're doing an order, might as well get them all at once, and may enough for 2-3 changes.
Just got a 93 super exceed, wondering if you know what type of oil filter to use when I do an oil change, I want to replace the filter as well.

Thanks,
-Doug.
 
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