Steps to change Alternator on diesel L300 Delica?

[weelsey]

I thought I'd add...... while it's not entirely bad if one snaps the adjuster bolt clear off, one CAN take the time to free it from the threads in the clamp block with penetrating fluid soak and the back-and-forth technique. It's not hard to pinch the rad hose out of the way from above or from below to work the bolt one way, then the other, back and forth a little bit further each time. Et voila! Seized adjuster back in business.

Easier and less time consuming perhaps is to break it and adjust tension by hand, however. Tips for breaking it if corroded are: no penetrating oil, loose locking bolt so the block is flopping, then torque-to-fail. Simple. Straight out of the Peter North owner's repair guide.

Leaving the pivot bolt free of nut DOES help with keeping oxidation from building (which is what causes hard removal of the long sucker), but that clamping force it provides does also help keep the situation in alignment.

One last goad-ly offering is the procedure where by you leave all that adjusty-bolty business alone and go get other belts, installing with the remove-fan-and-pulley-with-belts-then-struggle-to-align-pulley-bolts-with-tight-belts-attached method. Many options.

 

[PhilipJ]

Hi Y'all!

Pinging this thread with some issues. I had some serious squeaking and vibrations after getting my van back from the shop where a new OD solenoid was installed along with some transmission fluid change. They said the fan belt was very loose so they tightened it.

Turns out the alternator belt was very very loose. Found the tensioner was completely loose and as we went to loosen then adjust it, the bolt broke off in the adjuster. Removed the alternator and will drill it out the bolt and replace it (see image attached). Wondering if there's any other issues to check here before I put the alternator back in.

Regarding the part: Seeking to replace the whole kit with the following unless I can find the single bolt somewhere locally. Any thoughts? (Part numbers below)

BOLT,ALTERNATOR
Genuine Mitsubishi (MD078445)

BRACE KIT,ALTERNATOR ADJUSTING
Genuine Mitsubishi (MD110266)

 

[Opus451]

Hey Gang,

Is there an off the shelf alternator option here in the states? Anyone find if one of these chain shops carries it? Napa?

Started hearing what sounded like belt squeal, or pulley squeal, mixed with a little bearing sound that first made me think wheel bearing. I ruled that out thought. And the batteries aren’t being charged. Two dead mornings in a row.

 

[mswitt1234]

This is what I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L2RJEXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not "off the shelf" I suppose but may help you find one. It shares the same alternator as the Pajero or Montero I believe. I would say the main thing to make sure of is that it has the oil input.

 

[Opus451]

This is what I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L2RJEXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not "off the shelf" I suppose but may help you find one. It shares the same alternator as the Pajero or Montero I believe. I would say the main thing to make sure of is that it has the oil input.

Thank you! By Friday to me isn’t bad. That’s a great backup plan if I can’t find local.

 

[Opus451]

It’s too bad the Dodge Raider didn’t sell here with the 4D56. Morning Lamentations.

 

[Helibrian]

Along time ago I would take my alternator out and get it to an auto electric shop. Every major city should have 1 or 2. They usually can repair yours for less money than a new one.

 

[Attila]

When I replaced my alternator last year, I was told by people in the know, to stay away from the after market products and get the original re-built. So thats what I did. Wasn't cheap (about $340 CDN, which is a lot less in USD.) but after the hassle of taking the alternator off and putting back on I did not want to have to do it again any time soon. Don't know what other member's experience has been with after market products.

 

[Opus451]

I think my plan is shaping up to be buy the Amazon “special” because money is tight, and life needs to mush on. And rebuild the original to a 150amp spec on my own, keep it on the shelf. Then do the same to the cheapo when it goes caput. Best laid plans…

 

[liveworkwander]

Gents and Ladies,

I just bought the alternator that DelicaPartsUsa sells. It's the Hyundai model. That alternator has three pipes coming off the top of it. The factory L300 Delica alternator only has only two pipes coming off the top. I assume one is for boost/vacuum and the other is an oil line. On the new alternator, what do I do with that third line/pipe? Plug it?

 

[sk66]

Gents and Ladies,

I just bought the alternator that DelicaPartsUsa sells. It's the Hyundai model. That alternator has three pipes coming off the top of it. The factory L300 Delica alternator only has only two pipes coming off the top. I assume one is for boost/vacuum and the other is an oil line. On the new alternator, what do I do with that third line/pipe? Plug it?

Some have three; some have two. The large line goes to the brake booster. One small line goes to the vacuum manifold (piping) on top of the engine for the EGR solenoids. And the second small line goes to the vacuum solenoid for the AC cutoff on the passenger side of the engine bay (by radiator).

If your van previously only had two, then the small line is split for both the EGR/AC. You can plug the second small pipe with a proper vacuum plug, or you can replumb the EGR/AC separately using individual hoses.

 

[liveworkwander]

Some have three; some have two. The large line goes to the brake booster. One small line goes to the vacuum manifold (piping) on top of the engine for the EGR solenoids. And the second small line goes to the vacuum solenoid for the AC cutoff on the passenger side of the engine bay (by radiator).

If your van previously only had two, then the small line is split for both the EGR/AC. You can plug the second small pipe with a proper vacuum plug, or you can replumb the EGR/AC separately using individual hoses.

Thank you!

 

[Pumbadelica]

I’m liking this thread, some good info. Wondering if anyone else has had this same issue? While I was driving my alternator tensioner bolt snapped and one side is stuck in the alternator. Anyone else dealt with this issue and fixed it? Wondering if I’d be able to get it out without pulling the alternator and just replace the bolt. If not guess I can just pull it to try to get it out with my access? If I do I’d like to replace the belts as well, anyone know where to buy replacements? Thanks

 

[sk66]

I’m liking this thread, some good info. Wondering if anyone else has had this same issue? While I was driving my alternator tensioner bolt snapped and one side is stuck in the alternator. Anyone else dealt with this issue and fixed it? Wondering if I’d be able to get it out without pulling the alternator and just replace the bolt. If not guess I can just pull it to try to get it out with my access? If I do I’d like to replace the belts as well, anyone know where to buy replacements? Thanks

You might be able to grab the end of the bolt on the backside and turn it out.
Belts are still available...

Mitsubishi MD313660 BELT,ALTERNATOR & OTHERS

Mitsubishi MD313660 BELT,ALTERNATOR & OTHERS. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

I have 5 extra sets of the OEM matched belts... I'll sell a set for $45 including priority mail shipping; but you can get them cheaper.

 

[DustAngel]

What is causing all of these alternator tensioner bolts to snap, rust? Over tightening ?

 

[Helibrian]

Had the exact thing happen a few years ago. I think it’s because the bottom bolt hole from the engine is elongated causing too much stress. After pulling the drivers seat and the panel off there’s good access. The bolt threaded out I think pretty easy from the back. This is a picture of my bottom alternator attachment hole

 

[Opus451]

@Pumbadelica hey bud. Can you clarify which bolt snapped? There is the bolt that fixes tensioner bracket to the engine block. Then the bolt that passes through the bracket and a small spacer block of metal screwing into the alternator, and then at the other end of the bracket there is the tensioning bolt that as you screw it in or out, it uses that spacer block as leverage to pivot the alternator for belt tension.

I’ve been dealing with this a lot for a few months. Here’s my take on it.

Original lower mounting hardware fails over time. If you think of the rotational force of the belt at max tension, thousands of revolutions per minute, the vibrations and ever so slight slop in the belt, I believe it causes movement at the bottom pivot/mounting bolt. This movement routes out the engine block material it passes through and mounts the alternator to. The pivot point. Is it steel verses aluminum? Over time the nut of that bolt loosens, exacerbating the issues. Even falls off. Routing out the hole more. This then makes those forces of the rotating belt violent and extremely sloppy, causing the kind of torsional movement that will either brake the bracket or pop the head off the bracket block mount bolt. Some folks have done a great job of improving that bottom engine block pivot point. In my opinion it takes a good amount of know how to do, time, proper tools and work space. All things I’m in short order of.

I replaced my bracket, and welded the one that snapped. Thought I torqued the bottom nut well enough. Drove fine for about a month. Suddenly the van was dead again. No charging. The nut had unscrewed and escaped, creating slack in the belts.

Now trying a nylon lock nut with some blue locktite. And when it’s a little warmer, replacing all belts.

Here is my advice to you, for what it’s worth. Take the alternator out and extract the bolt shaft properly, carefully. Good time to change the oil and filter if due. And belts if they have run their course. Complete the alternator and belts job before putting the oil filter on. Take off the front bash guard, give yourself some room to contort your arms, being mindful of rusty bolts that will break.

I bought my alt belts from Napa. Felt overpriced. I haven’t sourced power steering or other belt yet. Hey @sk66 ate those 5 sets of all 4 belts or just alt belts?

Best of luck.

Opus

 

[sk66]

Hey @sk66 ate those 5 sets of all 4 belts or just alt belts?

Just the 313660 matched alternator belts...
You're better off getting them from overseas; but if you really need them in a hurry I have some.

 

[Pumbadelica]

Thanks for the tips @sk66 and @Opus451. My issue seems to have started a while back when I noticed my main alternator bolt, holding it to the engine had backed out 90% and was basically just magically still holding the alternator there still. haha. I replaced that bolt and its possible that i overtightened the adjusting and lockbolt when repositioning the alternator. Anyway, to answer your question @Opus451 the bolt that snapped is the lockbolt which is the shorter of the two and goes through the metal spacer block into the alternator. It seems like it sheared off without anywhere to grab from the front side but maybe I can access the back better. I need to change my oil and filter anyway so i may take your advise and remove the entire alternator anyway.

Side note, does anyone know where I could buy the replacement bolt. guessing the thread isn't a standard size. i have a speciality bolt store near me but trying to figure out the dims. Thanks.

 

[Opus451]

@Pumbadelica Have you checked the EPC data website? It lists a lot of the minutiae.

Mitsubishi parts catalog

Might get a size for the bolt if it’s listed.