Tutorial: Removing the EGR on the L300 :with videos:

daisy said:
Wouldn't simply disconnecting the EGR accomplish the same thing as physically blocking it? From what I've read, they are closed by default so in theory it would block recirculation so long as it stays closed.
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The bigger issue is if carbon buildup prevents it from closing... that will adversely affect start/idle/hard acceleration situations where it is supposed to be closed.
 
IMO, everyone here should do an EGR delete and EGT Gauge.

They jam a lot, cause all kinds of problems, and especially on the L300 you want to watch the temp of your turbo!!!

What you will find on the L300 is that the turbo is oil cooled. What often happens is that you drive the L300, get the turbo cherry red, then shut down. This can coke the engine oil in the turbo bearing. You don’t want that. Happened to a bunch of Canadian L300 users. So, watch your pre-turbo EGTs. L400 is a (little) less of an issue because turbo is water and oil cooled.
 
So I've got my blocking plates but am thinking this is a good job for temps above freezing and less than 2 feet of snow on the ground. I'm thinking of doing an EGR valve disconnect until I can get to the removal. I went to the PDF service manual, section 17-48-11, to research options and quickly have a question.
The PDF service manual EGR system instructions are for "VEHICLES WITH TURBOCHARGER FOR SWITZERLAND BUILT FROM NOVEMBER 1990". Any notable differences for my non-Swiss Dec 1989 Delica?
 
I live in the low country, flat coastal roads. And use liqui moly 2002 super diesel additive as required. I have blanking plates and have gone back and forth on what to do. She runs so well, I really do not want to do anything. At best I may take her in to a local turbo shop to have a look some time soon. Any more convincing advice is welcome! I'm torn.
 
I haven't got under the seat yet to look at the EGR but I want to do some prework to the plates (drill/tap). This may be a stupid question but which plate should be drilled and taped for a EGT?
2856
 
Mr_Flbble said:
IMO, everyone here should do an EGR delete and EGT Gauge.

They jam a lot, cause all kinds of problems, and especially on the L300 you want to watch the temp of your turbo!!!

What you will find on the L300 is that the turbo is oil cooled. What often happens is that you drive the L300, get the turbo cherry red, then shut down. This can coke the engine oil in the turbo bearing. You don’t want that. Happened to a bunch of Canadian L300 users. So, watch your pre-turbo EGTs. L400 is a (little) less of an issue because turbo is water and oil cooled.
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What are the symptoms of a jammed EGR, if you don't mind me asking?
 
Aaroneous said:
What are the symptoms of a jammed EGR, if you don't mind me asking?
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None really if it fails closed... that's basically the same as doing the EGR delete. If it fails in the open position it will mess with start/idle/full throttle acceleration. Chances of it failing far enough into the open position to be significant are slim...
 
Bit of irony here..
I am looking for an EGR to INSTALL! on my '89 L300. I purchased mine from FL where they will register anything with a motor. The EGR was already removed and there's a plate in place. The state of CO requires it in order to register it. Does anybody have a compatible one?
 
JDro said:
Bit of irony here..
I am looking for an EGR to INSTALL! on my '89 L300. I purchased mine from FL where they will register anything with a motor. The EGR was already removed and there's a plate in place. The state of CO requires it in order to register it. Does anybody have a compatible one?
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I have the one I removed from mine (91 4D56T)... PM me if you want it for the cost of shipping.
 
And in case anybody is looking to add an EGR back on or swap out theirs for a new one, I have the brand new EGR from my D4BF that hasn't been scrapped yet!
 
I only ever hear the one sided argument for why to do the delete and I'm not looking to argue, just expand the conversation....I just came across this and thought it was rather interesting on upsides to an egr, particularly during engine startup and warm-up periods.
http://www.advancedvehicleremapping.com.au/egr-blanking-plate/

Also read a good explanation of synthetic v dinosaur oil , wish I would have kept the link, but it got me thinking about about EGR sludge buildup.
If Conventional oils tend to brake down at lower temperatures and evaporate causing varnishing and sludge buildup, would this be a possible case to use synthetic? Would synthetic keep your egr valve cleaner for a longer period of time or is it truly just a matter of oil breathing systems as mentioned in the article?
 
Nenw said:
I just came across this and thought it was rather interesting on upsides to an egr, particularly during engine startup and warm-up periods.
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Except that it doesn't apply to our vans... it might apply on a vehicle that has the EGR open all the time (i.e. at start/idle).

Nenw said:
Would synthetic keep your egr valve cleaner for a longer period of time or is it truly just a matter of oil breathing systems as mentioned in the article?
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It would probably help; but not as much as preventing the oil from entering the intake to start with (e.g. installing a catch-can).
 
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