What Did You Do for Your Van Today?

[sk66]

So I had a look at printed garage manual that I happened to have and found that mechanic suppose to dilute ethylene glycol with distilled water in proportion 50/50 and use it as coolant .

That's not what it says... it says to use an ethylene glycol based antifreeze coolant at a 50/50 concentration...



More specifically it should be a HOAT antifreeze without silicone, borate, or *amine. I use Pentosin A2, which comes as a concentrate instead of a pre-mix (i.e. needs diluted 1:1 with distilled water).

(* it only specifies no amine for Norway)

 

[mickdub]

Here is what in mine at the bottom it is a picture of the page i referring to

regarding organic acids based antifreeze, that is exactly what i want to avoid.
according to Halfords
Cars made after 1998 normally need antifreeze that uses silicate-free, organic acid technology (OAT). These types of antifreeze offer better corrosion protection so that parts don't need to be changed as often.
Cars made before 1998 usually need antifreeze that isn't OAT-based and that does contain silicate.

Which Antifreeze Should You Use for Your Car? | Halfords IE

Learn more about antifreeze and which type to use in this short guide.

www.halfords.ie

i personally know 2 guys who used OAT based antifreeze on pre-98 vehicles, both had a problems with water pump.
i used OAT based and i had a problem with water pump that i have installed less then 3K km, and it was original delivered from Japan.
one of the guys i am talking about owns the garage, and he saying it not just single cases, all of the old cars having problems with OAT based antifreeze

Also, if i go to Halfords page to select antifreeze that is suitable for my Delica i will not find any OAT based antifreeze, only silicate

 

[Cdaaavis93]

Finally completed the EGR delete. Got the 3-1 gauge fully hooked up. Also did an oil change, oil filter, air filter, and fuel filter. It’s been a busy week but she’s running nice!

 

[Jack_1653]

Phase 1 of sound deadening almost complete.
72 sq ft laid 36 sq ft left to go
Before


After



I have two weeks to finish this project, my custom speaker box to fit under the middle row and engine maintenance.
Wish me luck!

 

[Mooser]

Math is not my strong suit. So I picked up a little GPS window-mounted kmh-mph speedometer, and now I can leave math where it belongs: back in high school! This thing works great, and has tons of other features to use if one is so inclined.

 

[Cdaaavis93]

Math is not my strong suit. So I picked up a little GPS window-mounted kmh-mph speedometer, and now I can leave math where it belongs: back in high school! This thing works great, and has tons of other features to use if one is so inclined.

What other features does it have? Do you have a link to it? Cheers!

 

[Mooser]

What other features does it have? Do you have a link to it? Cheers!

You can read all about the features here in this link from Amazon. This gizmo is great!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TQNMYWP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[Prehistoric Perk]

Installed a rear hatch rack from Gary at http://vwrack.com/Eurovan/Eurovan.htm

 

[Mooser]

Installed a rear hatch rack from Gary at http://vwrack.com/Eurovan/Eurovan.htm

Cool!

 

[SaulGoodman]

Installed a rear hatch rack from Gary at http://vwrack.com/Eurovan/Eurovan.htm

Any drilling required? How was the install? What did it run you with the tire addition?

 

[Prehistoric Perk]

Any drilling required? How was the install? What did it run you with the tire addition?

No drilling at all, the top pieces just slot in, and the bottom pieces as well, then just tighten down.

I got the full size rack, tire carrier and ladder pieces.

 

[Jack_1653]

I finished the sound deadening on all panels, doors and floor.
First layer was posted handful of days ago and this is the second and third layer.

As you might be able to tell from the second picture... I'm beginning to tear into the engine.
8 days to finish all of it now.

 

[Mooser]

I finished the sound deadening on all panels, doors and floor.
First layer was posted handful of days ago and this is the second and third layer.
View attachment 26350View attachment 26351View attachment 26352
As you might be able to tell from the second picture... I'm beginning to tear into the engine.
8 days to finish all of it now.

Impressive! That thing's gonna sound like a Tesla by the time you're done...

 

[ProjectandInfo]

Today I MacGyvered a table lamp cable with a switch directly from the fuse box to the wiper motor since the wipers didn't work. While doing so I found a single fuse (10a) coming from the harness above the fusebox(?) I had to take out the speaker to get to the fuse properly, but the fuse wasn't the problem for the wipers and it wasn't even blown.

Does anyone know if this fuse is an original part of the harness? Couldn't find info anywhere and it looks a bit like an aftermarket install

The new wiper lamp switch worked and I could actually see where i was driving, which is nice.
For some reason, the original wiper switch on the steering wheel started working, also without power from the new wire (different fuse location). But the wipers would stop randomly on the windscreen every now and then, and I had to use power from the new switch, just for the old switch to work again after a few minutes.
I still have to figure out how to fix this issue.. Any idea how I can troubleshoot without replacing, the wires, switch and motor?


If anyone needs to install a makeshift wiper switch here is how I did it:
New wire from the fusebox to one of the upper pins on the wiper motor connection plug.
thick double-sided tape for the new wire and switch to stick to the dashboard.
Cable lug, for the wire end that is pushed into the 'wiper motor plug' from behind.

LHD L300 so the fusebox is on the left side and the wiper motor is upside down behind the glovebox on the right side of the car.

 

[active.world]

Today I MacGyvered a table lamp cable with a switch directly from the fuse box to the wiper motor since the wipers didn't work. While doing so I found a single fuse (10a) coming from the harness above the fusebox(?) I had to take out the speaker to get to the fuse properly, but the fuse wasn't the problem for the wipers and it wasn't even blown.

Does anyone know if this fuse is an original part of the harness? Couldn't find info anywhere and it looks a bit like an aftermarket install
View attachment 26382
The new wiper lamp switch worked and I could actually see where i was driving, which is nice.
For some reason, the original wiper switch on the steering wheel started working, also without power from the new wire (different fuse location). But the wipers would stop randomly on the windscreen every now and then, and I had to use power from the new switch, just for the old switch to work again after a few minutes.
I still have to figure out how to fix this issue.. Any idea how I can troubleshoot without replacing, the wires, switch and motor?


If anyone needs to install a makeshift wiper switch here is how I did it:
New wire from the fusebox to one of the upper pins on the wiper motor connection plug.
thick double-sided tape for the new wire and switch to stick to the dashboard.
Cable lug, for the wire end that is pushed into the 'wiper motor plug' from behind.

LHD L300 so the fusebox is on the left side and the wiper motor is upside down behind the glovebox on the right side of the car.
View attachment 26379View attachment 26380View attachment 26381View attachment 26382View attachment 26383View attachment 26384

Hard to tell from the image, but that fuse hack looks like a fire hazard. Why not use a piggyback fuse tap?

 

[active.world]

a few weeks ago i managed to spill some dieselkleen in the back of my van. The person at autozone must have cut it with a blade when unpacking the box for shelving because it had a razor blade cut at the top of the bottle... enough to dribble out over a 5 hour drive and make my eyes burn like crazy. it got soaked into and under the subfloor of my camper build and into the insulation (awesome!). So, the past few days I've been disassembling our entire camper build and removing the entire interior. Cleaning everything I can, but still cant for the life of me get rid of the smell... its just metal left in there at this point. Any ideas?

I have a few more days while I wait for some replacement insulation to arrive, need to buy and recut some wood to replace the floor, and get myself a plastic container to keep the jug of dieselkleen in instead of tucked in a cubby where it can leak into the depths of the van.

Not all bad though... Ive also taken this time with everything disassembled to re-route a bunch of wiring that I did after the camper was built.... i had wiring running along the corners of the van floor for the past two years, but now everything runs behind the wall. Not quite finished yet.... Also cleaning and deodorizing the carpet on the wall panels... and will try to find a place to put our victron battery charger inside the wall instead of on the floor in the way before it all goes back together. Will pull all the carpet from the front + engine hump out this weekend and shampoo it as well. May need to do the seats too. Anything to get the smell out.

 

[ProjectandInfo]

Hard to tell from the image, but that fuse hack looks like a fire hazard. Why not use a piggyback fuse tap?

I should have clarified that it's not meant as a permanent switch, but a "I just want to go home switch".
I'm not sure how risky this fuse trick is, the wire is poked into the fuse output, meaning the power has to go through the fuse to send power to the new switch. I have never had an issue or heard anyone having problems with it but a yes dual adapter would be better.

i first tried to place the wire in the Wiper Fuse but the fuse blew when both switches were on and I ended up with both switches not working. The wire was then placed in the Horn Fuse (picture). So if it draws too much power the fuse should blow and not burn wires. It was either power from the fusebox or directly from the battery.

For some reason the steering wheel switch and wiper motor have worked almost every time after that evening so i don't know what the problem is. So yeah, the lamp switch is still there and will have to get its own fuse.

 

[ProjectandInfo]

a few weeks ago i managed to spill some dieselkleen in the back of my van. The person at autozone must have cut it with a blade when unpacking the box for shelving because it had a razor blade cut at the top of the bottle... enough to dribble out over a 5 hour drive and make my eyes burn like crazy. it got soaked into and under the subfloor of my camper build and into the insulation (awesome!). So, the past few days I've been disassembling our entire camper build and removing the entire interior. Cleaning everything I can, but still cant for the life of me get rid of the smell... its just metal left in there at this point. Any ideas?

I have a few more days while I wait for some replacement insulation to arrive, need to buy and recut some wood to replace the floor, and get myself a plastic container to keep the jug of dieselkleen in instead of tucked in a cubby where it can leak into the depths of the van.

Not all bad though... Ive also taken this time with everything disassembled to re-route a bunch of wiring that I did after the camper was built.... i had wiring running along the corners of the van floor for the past two years, but now everything runs behind the wall. Not quite finished yet.... Also cleaning and deodorizing the carpet on the wall panels... and will try to find a place to put our victron battery charger inside the wall instead of on the floor in the way before it all goes back together. Will pull all the carpet from the front + engine hump out this weekend and shampoo it as well. May need to do the seats too. Anything to get the smell out.

You can try using a degreaser, brake cleaner or dish soap to clean the dieselkleen off the metal and then a carpet cleaner to remove the smell from the carpet and seats. Or you can try using dehumidifiers to remove the smell. I had a bottle of diesel additive leak a little in the rear and it seemed like the dehumidifier bags worked pretty well.
I also bought a plastic container to store the liquids after..

 

[sk66]

I should have clarified that it's not meant as a permanent switch, but a "I just want to go home switch".
I'm not sure how risky this fuse trick is, the wire is poked into the fuse output, meaning the power has to go through the fuse to send power to the new switch. I have never had an issue or heard anyone having problems with it but a yes dual adapter would be better.

i first tried to place the wire in the Wiper Fuse but the fuse blew when both switches were on and I ended up with both switches not working. The wire was then placed in the Horn Fuse (picture). So if it draws too much power the fuse should blow and not burn wires. It was either power from the fusebox or directly from the battery.

For some reason the steering wheel switch and wiper motor have worked almost every time after that evening so i don't know what the problem is. So yeah, the lamp switch is still there and will have to get its own fuse.

There is a 10A fuse in the harness for one of the accessory switches, but I don't remember which one offhand (fog lamps?).

There is no safety risk with pulling power from the fuse like you did. But it can spread the contacts and weaken the fuse connection (arcing/heat), especially if the wire is removed later. And every additional load is that much more likely to blow the fuse.

 

[bikerjosh]

B-Line Performance to the rescue again. About 2 years ago, the rubber clutch line hose on my 93' sprang a leak. Called B-line and they had a replacement fabricated and in the mail to me the next day. In the middle of my DelicaWorks Intl 4" (glacial pace) lift install, I was under the van measuring for some new brackets to move gas filler pipe and noticed a slight problem (see first pic)whoops, guess I need a slightly longer line. Now my van is happy again.