Vast quantities of blue-gray smoke on startup and uphill in lower gear

Most likely causes IMO:
Piston rings too tight - excess friction
Piston rings too loose - excess piston tilt
Restricted cylinder squirter(s) - inadequate lubrication

The first two will be corrected by default. I have no idea how easy it is to pull/test the cylinder squirters; but I would find out...
 
Most likely causes IMO:
Piston rings too tight - excess friction
Piston rings too loose - excess piston tilt
Restricted cylinder squirter(s) - inadequate lubrication

The first two will be corrected by default. I have no idea how easy it is to pull/test the cylinder squirters; but I would find out...
The squirts are easy to pull, not sure how you would test them. If you had really high oil pressure that might indicate a blockage in an oil feed.
 
The squirts are easy to pull, not sure how you would test them. If you had really high oil pressure that might indicate a blockage in an oil feed.
There's no high oil pressure monitoring with stock gauges; just the low pressure warning light. There's also a pressure regulating valve in the oil pump; I don't think you would ever see "high pressure."
 
#4 injector overfueling that cyl causing some excess heat which burned the piston.
Shouldn't be possible with mechanical injection. Fuel is metered in the injection pump before being shoved at the injector, and all four injectors get the same amount of fuel. A wide-open injector would inject the fuel way too early (and poorly atomised) but would still only deliver roughly the same amount of fuel as the other injectors. A failed open injector would also create vast quantities of black smoke at all times (which @DeliKit would certainly have noticed), and I'd expect to see a *lot* more soot on the piston crown.

Most likely causes IMO:
Piston rings too tight - excess friction
That's my call too.
Piston rings should have a gap between the ends. The gap allows them to expand with heat. If the gap isn't large enough and the rings get hot enough the ends will touch, causing the rings to expand in diameter rather than in length. This jams them hard into the cylinder walls, which creates more heat directly in the rings, which causes more expansion which creates more heat... until they fuse with the cylinder walls, at which point something has to give and it's probably going to be the nice, soft piston.

The fun thing about incorrectly gapped rings is you can drive for years without it being a problem, until that day you drive up a hill just a little faster than normal, on a slightly hotter day, with a bit more luggage than usual, and the rings *just* hit that magical temperature where there's no more room to expand. And then boom!

...a blocked oil squirter could also allow the rings to overheat, causing the same cascade failure. Something to check for sure!
 
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I have to say that my experience with mechanical injection is pretty much limited to my Delica and it's 4M40. The previously mentioned Series 60 is a common rail system and likely the injector stuck open for some reason. I had not considered that the IP pump is responsible for quantifying fuel charge. Is there a scenario where a single cylinder can be over fueled?
 
Is there a scenario where a single cylinder can be over fueled?
I can't think of one. The IP has one high pressure plunger, which rotates a quarter turn on each stroke to direct the fuel to the next cylinder. The amount of fuel going into the plunger is controlled by a sliding sleeve, which is controlled by the accelerator pedal position. The sleeve doesn't know which cylinder is being injected. Even on the electronically controlled injection pumps (L400 Series 2) I doubt the sleeve control mechanism is fast enough to increase the amount of fuel for one cylinder and then lower it again for the other 3. The sleeve is quite heavy, and the control linkage is surprisingly flimsy.

In theory, the IP shoves fuel at the closed injector and pressure builds up until the injector snaps open. The injector stays open until the fuel pressure drops enough that the injector can snap closed, and when the injector snaps closed a little excess fuel gets diverted into the return rail. But it's a piddling amount, maybe 5% of the injected volume.

A faulty, jammed open injector would inject 100% of the fuel but the pressure would be very low with poor atomisation, injection would start well before the cylinder was hot enough to vaporise the fuel, and consequently most of the fuel would be exhausted as white vapour rather than being burnt. On a common rail engine the jammed open injector would be spewing lovely, combustible, perfectly atomised fuel which would burn *really* well.
 
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Hi enthusiasts,

btw. I can tell what happened after the spring in one of the injectors of our 4dbh Hyundai engine broke: It began to spew black smoke. My concern in this case has been twofold: First, can a certain amount of unburnt fuel wash away the oil film between cylinder and piston? Second: can the way too early combustion lead to excessive heat that damages piston, valves or head gasket? Luckily, after replacing the spring, obviously nothing of the latter has happened. The engine is not related to our l300 but sits in our L200 pick-up-truck that we normally use to haul a one-ton camper shell over the Alps, since 15.000 kms now without any signs of damage and a surprisingly low fuel consumption.

After I heard of Hyundai's quality issues, I did some research and found out that there are not only faulty materials but also sloppy manufacturing responsible for damages - even spectacular ones like this one: One of the guys in one of our German forums - a car mechanic - had a cracked piston. When he dismantled the engine, he found out that there are two types of pistons with different positions of the holes for the sprayers. One of the pistons, however, has been factory-fitted in a wrong position. Originally, they are supposed to let the oil enter a gallery behind the piston crown in order to remove excess heat from this zone. The oil is supposed to enter the gallery every time the piston is in its bottom dead center when the hole covers the sprayer nozzle. In his case, however, the hole has been on the wrong side due to the wrong piston type. With the first revolution of this engine, the nozzle got knocked into the oil pan and the piston has never received the oil to cool it properly down since then. On the first occasion (after nearly 60.000 kms) the engine has gotten hotter than normal, the piston cracked by overheating.

Greetings from Munich!

(edited for clarification)
 
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Just for clarification, Good Karrma (DelicaPartsUSA.com) does warranty all engines installed at Karr Automotive. We have actually swapped well over 30 engines and not have had any come back. That said we do have lots of experience with this exact engine and are able to identify a lot of issues before they are ever delivered to the customer. I try to always be very clear here, we have said before that we agree that D4BF is just not, nor ever was the same quality as the legendary Mitsubishi original. But since those have not been manufactured for decades the fact the D4BF, a brand new OEM drop in replacement was built at all, is a miracle. We are on our final six engines and then we will be done with D4BFs forever. In these cases we can only speculate as to the cause of failure. Mike and Kellyn have some ideas well, I don't know if they'll chime in.
 
And... one more Delica rejoins the road! Whew, that took awhile. Just got our little van back last Friday! It cost several arms and legs to rebuild, and considering all the things, I'm still unsure if this was the right decision (versus giving up the Delica). Certainly there are others who know me, who thought me crazy to keep it, against all the odds... but sometimes, a decision feels right, even if it makes little sense on paper. Maybe that's an unspoken assumption of Delica ownership? It has been an expensive winter!

IMG20240112122649.jpg

So, it seems we'll never know quite why Cylinder #4 ended up in the shape it was, although Tyler (at NE Auto Imports) thought a too-tight ring the most likely explanation, like others here. However, there was one additional thing to note: the oil "poppet" (I think that's the word, for the thing that squirts in oil?) in cylinder #4 felt a bit different from the others. The condition of the bearings added little to the story, other than that it was not "fuel knock" (bad fuel, I'm assuming... so that was a coincidence, that this all happened after refueling).

IMG20240112121840.jpg

Everything was inspected as it was stripped down to its bare cast-iron heart, a new cylinder sleeve fitted, new rings installed with proper tolerances, and the following replaced while everything was apart:

Screenshot 2024-02-07 at 10.30.56 AM.png

Having driven it since, I think I can say that the van isn't keen on New England! Neither the van nor I are accustomed to such cold temperatures, but the 4WD has been working great. Thinking about heading back out west, once spring arrives (there's frozen snow everywhere right now)!

Thanks again to everyone for all the thoughts and support. @Growlerbearnz I really appreciated your encouragement as far as my abilities to disassemble, troubleshoot, and reassemble the van, when I had no prior experience with working on engines or even using wrenches! I am far more familiar with all my assorted wrenches now, and more comfortable knowing that I can take things apart, then put them back together and still have a working van. Though I could never have done it without you and all the detailed help in this thread!

Thank you again @sk66 for your many sensible thoughts throughout this process (including the thoughts of yours that I didn't wish to hear at the time, but that I needed to hear anyway)! Thanks @floP for all your thoughts from Munich! Thanks @greendel for your kind support... I'd have preferred Vogon poetry to what happened on our trip! Thanks @Nenw for helping me with photos and clear instructions as I took things apart! And thanks @DustAngel, @The Tick, and @kbrown934 for your thoughts along the way too!

And a shout-out to @stevenlee for sourcing OEM parts...this is the van for which you've been sending parts to New Hampshire recently!

IMG_1096.jpg
 
Congrats!

It's always a tough call... you probably would have lost just about as much money selling the van with a bad engine.
Yes, you're right I bet. And there's no vehicle I've ever enjoyed driving as much as my Delica... something about it makes me smile every time I drive it (every trip feels like an adventure). Plus we've really settled into this one! I don't think we've ever enjoyed 2.5 weeks on the road like we did on our cross-country trip (other than those last four hours)... and now I have more confidence in working on it myself too, for simpler jobs :)
 
Glad that the van is back with you and ready to go new places! I bought my first L300 (a 1986 SE 4x4) back in 1995 and still love driving them. My first van and its new owner came back to visit recently to collect the rear seats and some spares I'd put aside. He is totally smitten with driving it. He needed the seats so he could carry both his daughters around as they were fighting over the front passenger seat, and the eldest can't wait to turn 16 so she can drive it too! Within reason, what price do you put on that kind of happiness :)
 
Glad that the van is back with you and ready to go new places! I bought my first L300 (a 1986 SE 4x4) back in 1995 and still love driving them. My first van and its new owner came back to visit recently to collect the rear seats and some spares I'd put aside. He is totally smitten with driving it. He needed the seats so he could carry both his daughters around as they were fighting over the front passenger seat, and the eldest can't wait to turn 16 so she can drive it too! Within reason, what price do you put on that kind of happiness :)
That's lovely to hear, and "smitten" is exactly the word for how I feel too! My daughter (who's still four years off from driving age) loves it when people see her sitting up front and do a double-take, thinking that she's the driver!
 
Just getting caught up here. last I’d seen you were just headed out on this fateful trip. What a bummer that these unscrupulous engine suppliers left you in this situation. It does quite clearly seem like a piston ring which had not been properly gapped. I’m assuming that ring was broken at disassembly, or they could’ve checked the gap at that time. Might have made blaming the builder a bit easier. I truly hate to see this because I know it will likely shake your confidence in the van for quite some time. As a side note about oil squirters they aren’t for lubrication but for cooling the pistons, and this low stressed engine probably doesnt need them at all in fact so I doubt that was a factor.
anyway glad it’s sorted and just remember even after all the investment it’s still probably cheaper than a new car.
 
I truly hate to see this because I know it will likely shake your confidence in the van for quite some time.
You called that one, for sure! For that reason, yesterday we took a trip back up to New Hampshire to NE Auto Imports (the repair shop), just because I wasn't sure about the sound of the engine, along with the amount of exhaust when starting up from cold.

We arrived in this little off-grid cabin on November 10th, so I've basically not heard the van running for three months now! I guess I need to re-attune to all its sounds, as it sounded pretty good by the time we pulled into the place in New Hampshire. Also I guess I've acclimatized to the cold out here, whilst the van has not! It starts up without the exhaust pouring out once it's warm, and it's not losing any oil, so it's just me having my confidence shaken, like you said. It is too bad, since after the long cross-country trip over the Rockies and all, I was feeling so confident in the little van, and I drove it so carefully too, keeping an eye on EGTs and its other gauges throughout. I never imagined what'd happen.

I believe the ring that broke wasn't in any kind of condition to check anything about it. I have the scored-up cylinder sleeve as a kind of memento of what happened though. On the plus side, I'm discovering just how much fun these vehicles are off-road. To get to this cabin, there's a rough road covered in snow currently, then a drive up over a path with a few boulders, and it's incredible how the little van just clambers over all of it!
 
A driving report and a cold-start follow-up question:

As I mentioned above, my confidence has been shaken after my ring experience with cylinder 4. Enough to where I went back to NE Auto Imports the week after I got the van back, to ask them to listen to it, and to make sure everything was as it should be, in their opinion (and considering all the costs)!

Specifically, it was starting up with a fair bit of diesel-smelling smoke still, and sounding rough when it started, whereas it had always started up rather smoothly, almost to where you couldn't tell it was a diesel. However, all my nice smooth starts were in the Bay Area, California, whereas now I was starting up at near (slightly to somewhat above) freezing temperatures.

And, once the van had warmed up, it started up just as usual after that for the rest of the day. Since I did recall some rough starts and smoke on our trip out west before the dreaded ring experience, when it was particularly cold out, I kind of figured it had to do with the cold temperatures. And that's what the folks at NE Auto Imports assured me of as well. They checked it out there too, and it's not losing oil at all, its fluid levels are all fine, and it sounds smooth once warmed up.

It's been hard to test starting up at warm temperatures, because we haven't really had them, although there was a day more in the 50s, but it would have followed a colder night. I still saw the smoke and heard the roughness, until it evened out after a few minutes once warm, and was fine for the rest of the day.

In order to break in Cylinder 4, we just took a trip (without our trailer) through Pennsylvania and New York, before coming back to Massachusetts. We drove almost 1750 miles (2800km) on this trip, as we ended up seeing neat things to do here and there! Every morning, the starts were the same. It does have new glow plugs now, and I realize these vans don't like cold, but I just want to make sure this is all expected before we leave New England, heading back to California (along a southerly route this time, we plan to take Route 66 most of the way, with the little trailer again)!

The video below captures the look and sound of our typical cold starts. I pump the pedal once before starting, then wait for the 6V glow plug click, then start it up. I guess I should have included that starting sound in the video, but the glow plug part is working great, and only on the coldest days has the van shut off moments after trying to stay running, and had to be restarted, and this only because it didn't seem to have enough warm fuel in its system yet (this also was typical of our coldest days before the ring issue).

So, for the start in the video, I pumped the pedal once, turned the key, and then continued to pump in more fuel with the pedal in order to bring up the RPMs to around 1000 once started (there's always some stuttering during this time, not included on the video). I then pulled the throttle knob out to hold RPMs at 1000 (after which the RPMs usually creep up to around 1250 during the course of the next minute or so). The video starts just after I've done all of this described.

In the video, there's a point in the middle-ish where the smoke definitely reduces in volume. That is the same moment that, seeing the RPMs to have crept up to 1250, and with the engine sounds evening out rather thank kind of stuttering, I then push the throttle knob back in, and let the van continue to idle up and warm up on its own from that point on.

My question is really whether this is just normal for near-to-somewhat-above-freezing cold starts? There were a few changes to the engine that I noticed after getting it back, the little vacuum hoses relating to the EGR were in a different configuration than when I brought it to NE Auto Imports. I did ask them about this too, and they looked at it and still saw the blanking and hoses as they should be, in their opinion. The engine was also missing what looked to be an insignificant tiny bracket in one spot. I asked them about this, and they confirmed its seeming relative insignificance. I was still a little surprised that it was returned without a piece, but it was in their shop for a long time in pieces, so I suppose these things can happen. I'll take a photo later of where that is, but it doesn't have anything to do with the cold starts, so it's not so relevant here.

Overall, the van performed great over our recent 1750 miles, getting 20.1 miles to the gallon, which is in line with its performance after the D4BF was originally put in (we had a fair few hills in third gear, which always impacts our mileage compared to interstate driving).

I will add, that there's just the tiniest puff of smoke when I start it (even when warm) these days, just barely anything, and maybe it always did that, I just don't think it did, but I'm probably just paranoid about it still, after everything we went through!

 
I’m not 100% sure it’s normal but that looks like my cold starts from mid October through April up here north of Ottawa in Canada. (Someone needs to balance out those clean Teslas out there!)
 
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