Vast quantities of blue-gray smoke on startup and uphill in lower gear

DeliKit

Active Member
The van did so well for our whole long cross-country trip, right up until the last 4 hours!

Here are the symptoms, and they're serious I think. Note that we traveled 6,910 km in total over a couple of weeks, and traversed many hills, while towing a relatively light trailer (about 500 pounds total loaded?) The hardest hills were nearer the beginning, and the van did so well going uphill in third over the Rockies, heading east!

So everything's been great, other than cold starts, but we worked those out and had no other problems until we were somewhere in Connecticut, going uphill in third as usual, and I could have sworn I saw a great puff of grayish smoke out the back. Then I saw it again, clearly it seemed, a large cloud. I pulled off, everything seemed alright, and note that the van had been going uphill just as normal, same amount of power it seemed. So I pulled back on the highway, since we were nowhere near a town, and then sadly I saw another grayish cloud again while I was accelerating up to highway speed.

Then it seemed like everything was normal, and I was worried about continuing to drive, but I had my daughter and cat and all our things with us, and we were within hours of our final destination. I started to wonder if perhaps I imagined the smoke somehow with the lighting, as I didn't see it again for awhile? But I was nervous for sure.

I stopped for fuel, and it didn't start quite as usual, even though it was warm. It faltered, the engine, and the idle seemed a bit low. I knew I'd have one more fuel stop to make too, before I reached where we were going. I continued on! I started to see the smoke up every hill when in third though, and I worried more. Though strangely, it wasn't always blowing out smoke in third uphill, but more often than not it was, then it would seem to clear up (though it was getting dark now, so becoming harder to see unless it was illuminated by headlights behind me).

Note that I knew I was overdue for an oil change too, but I'd lost track of my last oil filter, even though we had oil with us. I thought we'd be alright going an extra thousand miles too, since the oil change would still be changed at 4000ish (this is usual non-synthetic oil).

At the last fuel stop, I knew something was seriously wrong. I started up the van after fueling up, and a cloud of gray smelly exhaust was emitted, which has never happened before with the new D4BF engine (which may well still be in its break-in period, though I'd done 1000 miles since it was put in, before this cross-country trip). Again, for almost our whole trip, it'd been purring along. But I heard a roughness now in the engine... it was louder than it should be.

I kept going, as we were like two hours away by then, and it was nighttime, and it seemed so important to make it if we could. The van drove just fine, other than sounding rough (it cruised alright, but sounded rough at low speeds and getting up to speed). When I arrived, I parked it, then had to do a cold start the next morning to put it in 4WD and find my way up this driveway here, which was rough terrain. It sounded terrible when it started, and emitted great clouds of gray-blue smoke. I went and sniffed the smoke, and it definitely wasn't sweet (a relief!), it smelled like straight-up diesel exhaust from big trucks.

From what I've read here, I'm afraid it's the turbo (which was new with the D4BF... and how would I have messed it up on easy Connecticut hills, after it was fine through so many others?). It seems we may even have risked something serious, "diesel runaway"? Oh, and I checked the oil at our last stop, and since I'd been afraid to turn the engine off, I pulled the dipstick with it running (thinking that was alright?) and I saw smoke coming out of the hole for the dipstick, and it smelled wrong. I turned it off and tried the dipstick again just after the engine was off, and then I didn't see smoke, but it seems maybe an important detail?

It didn't seem low on oil, but the oil looked kind of like it was behaving different on the dipstick. It smelled "cooked" somehow? I checked our mileage, and it was 18.3 miles per gallon, which is right up there with our best mileage on this trip (we averaged around 16.5 m/g I think). And again, there was no loss of power up hills. But it sounds and smells wrong for sure, and I know that it needs some care before I try driving it anywhere again.

My poor little van! I'm going to attach some videos to this post next, once I upload them over this rural slow internet I have here! Clearly I should change the oil too. I'm also very far from any known mechanics now, down a dirt road in a forest in Massachusetts. At least I have help here, at least someone who's capable of physically turning wrenches (I often struggle, even when I know what to do!)
 
Hi, DeliKit,
given the facts that your engine is nearly new, that you got a good mileage lastly and that the smoke appears intermittently I would suspect the peripherals of the engine - even more than I normally would at first sight. What you describe could be caused by a small leak that allows air to enter the fuel system before the suction-pump that sits inside your high-pressure injection pump. Replacing the last part of the fuel line with an air hose for fish-tanks can make the air visible while the engine is running or after switching it off.
Thanks for sending those movies - they show that the engine is shuddering, which would be typical for air as well as the color of the exhaust gas, a low idle, vibration while driving under load and the starting-issues.
Greetings from Munich
floP

(edited for clarity, excuse my English)
 
Last edited:
I think you need to pull the valve cover...
There's been at least 3 D4BF engines/heads reported here where the rocker shaft snapped.
 
Hey, Steven,
THAT sounds scary - I really begin to suspect you got Chinese counterfeit engines in the U.S. ...
 
Hey, Steven,
THAT sounds scary - I really begin to suspect you got Chinese counterfeit engines in the U.S. ...
Well, the ones I know of came from Canada; but were (supposed to be) Hyundai Korea OEM...

I've gotten new parts that were bad more a few times; nothings 100%... once got a new helicopter engine that failed on it's first flight (test stand was down).
 
I think you need to pull the valve cover...
There's been at least 3 D4BF engines/heads reported here where the rocker shaft snapped.
Is there a post with some guidance on how to pull the valve cover (or a section in the manual I can reference without being familiar (yet!) with doing this sort of thing myself)?
 
Does the engine have an egr delete?
Yes it does. It was running so so well through such different terrain and climates, I’d begun to trust entirely in it :oops: I kept such a close eye on the EGT temp and engine temp too throughout, always was fine (though near pushing limits over the Rockies, early in our trip).
 
Hey, Steven,
THAT sounds scary - I really begin to suspect you got Chinese counterfeit engines in the U.S. ...
I got mine from Good Karrma in their last order (of fifty engines), and they definitely came from South Korea.
 
Hi, DeliKit,
given the facts that your engine is nearly new, that you got a good mileage lastly and that the smoke appears intermittently I would suspect the peripherals of the engine - even more than I normally would at first sight. What you describe could be caused by a small leak that allows air to enter the fuel system before the suction-pump that sits inside your high-pressure injection pump. Replacing the last part of the fuel line with an air hose for fish-tanks can make the air visible while the engine is running or after switching it off.
Thanks for sending those movies - they show that the engine is shuddering, which would be typical for air as well as the color of the exhaust gas, a low idle, vibration while driving under load and the starting-issues.
Greetings from Munich
floP

(edited for clarity, excuse my English)
I would love for it to be something more like this than a rocker shaft snapping! Is that something that involves an engine rebuild, so early in its life?
 
Ah, crap.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for the air-in-the-injection-pump option, though that usually causes very hard starting and not so much smoke when running. As a quick diagnostic step, try pumping the primer pump on top of the fuel filter: that'll pressurise the fuel lines and possibly cause any leaks to become obvious.

Same with rocker failure: it'll cause bad running, but not usually that much smoke. But worth checking!

From the amount of smoke and rough running, I would guess it's engine oil being burnt. And a lot of it.
I think the most likely culprit of burning that much engine oil is bad piston ring(s) pressurising the crankcase and forcing oil out the breather. All that oil combined with low compression on one cylinder would result in smoke and rough running, though it's unusual that it came on so suddenly.

However it could also be a failed turbo oil seal, allowing oil into the intake, or a failed head gasket at the back near the oil feed, allowing oil to squirt into the rear cylinder.

I'd remove the driver's seat and floor pan so it's easier to get at the inlet side of things.

Before disassembling the engine, try this diagnostic step:
Disconnect the engine breather from the inlet pipe (the short rubber elbow that runs from the rocker cover), put the breather into a clear bottle with a rag lightly around the neck (to catch any oil that comes flying out), and start the engine.
If the breather starts blasting out gas and oil, you have bad piston rings.
If the breather is merely outgassing with perhaps a drop of oil, your rings are likely ok.

Alternatively, have a compression test done. That'll tell you straight away if your pistons are good.

If the breather is ok you might have dodged a bullet warranty claim. Next step would be to check the rockers and injection pump (as above).
 
I tried the quick fuel pump thing, no leaks were obvious. I’ll look to taking out the driver’s seat tomorrow so I can test that breather.

It was running so well at one moment, and then I heard the sound change and saw the smoke… this was while driving up a fairly easy hill (compared to what we’d had) in Connecticut (four hours from our destination).

I was under the impression from Good Karrma that these engines were sold as-is with no warranty as well :oops:
 
Is there a post with some guidance on how to pull the valve cover (or a section in the manual I can reference without being familiar (yet!) with doing this sort of thing myself)?
11B-10-1, but there's not much to it... you have to disconnect some hoses, but it's just the two (three?) bolts down the center of the cover.

I was suggesting this first as any timing/engine problem is better identified before running the engine if possible... but that's pretty much a moot point now.

This video shows checking blowby (worn rings) a couple ways, and shows bad vs good... he checks the dipstick instead of the breather hose; but it's about the same thing.

 
In my experience with smoke that is related to overloaded fuel in the system is to try and figure out if an injector is stuck open or if there is a lack of air flow from the intake system and/or turbo.
 
*Someone please verify torque spec is shared between the Hyundai and Mitsubishi models. I will edit if necessary.*

Checking the rocker is simple.

#1 Pull the valve cover - There are three bolts (red) on top of the valve cover and a few vacuum lines (yellow) connecting it. Pull those and lift. This should take like 2 minutes.
1699920649688.png


#2 - Rocker Shaft and Bolt Check - Rocker Shaft is the red arrow. Check that this is not snapped anywhere along its length. Check the 5 bolts (green) for tightness. 34-39nm These are what are coming loose on some engines.
1699932990568.png


#3 If the shaft is loose, you should probably check your valve lash after tightening. Pg 172 (11-86)


#4 Reassembly - When you reinstall the cover, you should have some rtv on hand and drop a bead across the rear half moon gasket (pink) located at the back. Tighten the valve cover bolts to 5.9nm
1699929679383.png
 
However it could also be a failed turbo oil seal, allowing oil into the intake, or a failed head gasket at the back near the oil feed, allowing oil to squirt into the rear cylinder.
A buddy had a turbo shit the bed on a brand new Hyundai engine while road tripping after having put maybe only a 2000 or so km on it.
 
Oh, I slept over it and have got another guess now!

Once, one of the springs that put load on the needle broke inside one of the injectors. With a heavy foot on the accelerator, the engine blew out grayish smoke then. However, the surplus amount of fuel raised visibly the consumption (which makes me still believe in an air-leak in your case. They can be a PITA to localize at times). That has happened indeed with a D4BF (that replaces the 4d56 in our pickup-truck) but at high mileage. Apart from this small and easy-to-repair incident, the reliable engine starts and runs like a dream, even though it has to lug a heavy cabin over the mountains and back several times every year …

Cheers
FloP
 
That’s a lot of smoke, looks and sounds like you might of lost a piston ring. Could try a quick compression test/ leak down test and see what your numbers look like. Pull the valve cover first, it’s quick and easy but usually a busted valve train makes more noise. Sad that the D4BF engines are such a roll of the dice when it comes to quality. Unfortunately you’re not the first to get burned by these replacement units.
 
*Someone please verify torque spec is shared between the Hyundai and Mitsubishi models. I will edit if necessary.*

Checking the rocker is simple.

#1 Pull the valve cover - There are three bolts (red) on top of the valve cover and a few vacuum lines (yellow) connecting it. Pull those and lift. This should take like 2 minutes.
View attachment 24417


#2 - Rocker Shaft and Bolt Check - Rocker Shaft is the red arrow. Check that this is not snapped anywhere along its length. Check the 5 bolts (green) for tightness. 34-39nm These are what are coming loose on some engines.
View attachment 24422


#3 If the shaft is loose, you should probably check your valve lash after tightening. Pg 172 (11-86)


#4 Reassembly - When you reinstall the cover, you should have some rtv on hand and drop a bead across the rear half moon gasket (pink) located at the back. Tighten the valve cover bolts to 5.9nm
View attachment 24418

This is so helpful! I’m almost at the point of lifting the valve cover to unveil hopefully not broken pieces, but quick question: do I need to drain the engine oil first (I’d rather not get the forest floor here oily, ideally)?

I’ve also removed the driver’s seat and that metal piece to gain extra access to everything. Somehow I’ve done it all myself, except my friend had to loosen the three main bolts on the valve cover for me first!
 
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