Alternator wiring question?

[sck_nogas]

Background: I have a D4BF engine, so I have 2 types of alternator connections have been grafted to the existing wiring harness, plus the two thick wires that bolt to the alternator output. This weekend, whilst changing out the alternator, the copper crimp eyelet terminal broke. So, I needed to crimp on a new one. No biggie, but as I did I noticed an "extra" wire and have NO idea what this is for?

So, here's the wiring diagram.

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With the colors coded in Blue in the image, and the FOUR wires that connect to the alternator.​

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But, this is what I have in that wire bundle...

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I see five wires!!!​

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Blue, red/white, 2 thick white and some weird yellowish white with a female spade connector?​

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And the after picture with my new crimp eyelet terminal (and alternator boot) installed.​

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Any guesses as to where and WTF this wire is for?

 

[Delica_Dad]

That's not a factory connector, temperature sending unit maybe? Must be something down near the alternator that it went to!

 

[Growlerbearnz]

Yellow is the oil pressure sender. I guess they bundled it into the alternator loom because it's in the right area.

And please, for the sake of my OCD, could you hit that black 2-pin connector with some deoxit/contact cleaner and dielectric grease? Ewww.

 

[sck_nogas]

And please, for the sake of my OCD, could you hit that black 2-pin connector with some deoxit/contact cleaner and dielectric grease? Ewww.

TOTALLY! It grossed me out to even take the picture.

 

[sck_nogas]

Okay... Now I'm really frustrated!

I finally got a break in the rain so I could put the connections onto the alternator, and get my Delica back running. (Grrrr, really want a garage/shop I can work in!) So, I clean the terminals up real pretty and slap on dielectric grease and then fish the wire bundle down to the alternator. Slide under with my trusty 13mm socket wrench and... I can't connect the battery<->alternator crimp. It's 1 inch too short! No matter what I do, I can't get any more slack.

So, I go to the wiring diagram (already in the first post) and see that there are two connectors, I track the wiring bundle into the air filter compartment and there are two connections.


My issue is that I can't see how to disconnect the B-83 connector, and it's taped and connected to the wiring harness so I can't see how to open/disconnect the shield. Any thoughts on how to open it?

Plus, I went to see if I could see if I can find a replacement part of the wiring harness (in case I broke some 30 year old brittle plastic), but can't seem to find what part number would be used for this. Closest I can find is MB802255 (aka Harness, Engine) but that's the entire harness, and can't see if it includes those connectors

Anyone got any ideas, before I just cut the wires and solder in a 2 inch extension in the middle of the bundle?

 

[sck_nogas]

@sk66 @Growlerbearnz @Kellyn (and other's in the Delica Brain trust)
Anyone got any ideas on how to disconnect the B-83 connector to see how to replace those wires?
Anyone got any leads on what part number that section of the wiring harness is?
Anyone got any thoughts on how best to (or not to) splice those wires to gain a couple of inches?
Anyone parting out a Delica and can sell me that section of the wiring harness?

 

[Delica_Dad]

For that B-83 connector, it looks like a splice kit within a box. I've seen similar ones that had a bolt connection inside. I'm not sure if that's factory or not, could be something totally different. From what I can see in the picture there is a clasp on the top side and the hinge to open it is on the bottom. I could run out and look at the van and see if I have the same but it has 8" of snow on it and I'm nice and warm right now!



As for splicing the large gauge wires. If it were me, I'd solder them and use heat shrink tubing to seal them up. Those carry a lot of amps so you want a good connection and you want to use good quality automotive wiring that is the same gauge. If you are unsure of soldering technique:

DIY: How to solder your wiring connections like a professional

Rat’s nest begone!

www.hagerty.com

Always fun working on wiring that someone has messed with in the past!

Good luck

 

[sk66]

I think you have the junctions identified correctly, and the engine harness section as well (although it will only have 1/2 of the connection). I believe B83 is a side hinged cover and not a connector per-se.

I think the easiest way would be to cut the wires and splice in extensions. The neatest/best answer is probably to make mini harnesses/extension that can plug in in-between... but that may well be more work/expense than it's worth.

 

[sck_nogas]

For that B-83 connector, it looks like a splice kit within a box. I've seen similar ones that had a bolt connection inside. I'm not sure if that's factory or not, could be something totally different. From what I can see in the picture there is a clasp on the top side and the hinge to open it is on the bottom. I could run out and look at the van and see if I have the same but it has 8" of snow on it and I'm nice and warm right now!

View attachment 14983

As for splicing the large gauge wires. If it were me, I'd solder them and use heat shrink tubing to seal them up. Those carry a lot of amps so you want a good connection and you want to use good quality automotive wiring that is the same gauge. If you are unsure of soldering technique:

DIY: How to solder your wiring connections like a professional

Rat’s nest begone!

www.hagerty.com

Always fun working on wiring that someone has messed with in the past!

Good luck

You were right! I've ordered more 4 gauge wire (only have 12/14 gauge at home). So, to document...

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That's the connection.

 

[DustAngel]

Make a ~2” wire with ring terminals on each end. Bolt to each existing ring terminal with short bolts and then heat shrink.

 

[Delica_Dad]

I would just replace the whole two white wire ring terminal link from the splice bolt to the new one you just added (sorry!) and make a longer one that works. The less connections the better.

Edit, just read the 4 gauge wire... wow, thick stuff!

 

[sk66]

You were right! I've ordered more 4 gauge wire (only have 12/14 gauge at home). So, to document...

You have to be careful, some conversion charts are in mm of diameter (5mm dia = 4awg). But the wiring diagrams are annotated by sectional area in mm² (5mm² = 10awg). Sometimes the conversion charts don't really say which metric convention they are using...

FAQ: AWG chart and the metric system | Eland Cables

Answering the frequently asked question: what is the conversion system between AWG and metric. American Wire Gauge chart compared to cable sizes in mm2. Diameters in inches and mm and also the cross sectional area.

www.elandcables.com

 

[sck_nogas]

You have to be careful, some conversion charts are in mm of diameter (5mm dia = 4awg). But the wiring diagrams are annotated by sectional area in mm² (5mm² = 10awg). Sometimes the conversion charts don't really say which metric convention they are using...

FAQ: AWG chart and the metric system | Eland Cables

Answering the frequently asked question: what is the conversion system between AWG and metric. American Wire Gauge chart compared to cable sizes in mm2. Diameters in inches and mm and also the cross sectional area.

www.elandcables.com

View attachment 14999

Considering both of the wires are labeled AVX5-W, that would lead me to believe 5mm and if I caliper them...

Outer diameter is 5mm...

And the wire diameter is 4.2mm (or so).

So, I think 4 gauge is sufficient.

 

[sk66]

Considering both of the wires are labeled AVX5-W, that would lead me to believe 5mm and if I caliper them...

5mm² in area... you can't measure that directly with a caliper (conversion chart says it should be about 2.5mm in core dia).

So, I think 4 gauge is sufficient

Definitely sufficient ... 4awg would be labeled as ~20mm² on the wiring diagram (e.g. the primary battery cables for the gas engined vehicles).

Edit: I just noticed that the terminal attached to the other end is labeled 8awg-5/16", and it's oversized...

 

[Delica_Dad]

You need to account that you are using braided wire which is going to appear a little bigger than a solid core wire. 4 is really big stuff like sk66 mentioned, you wouldn't need to double up with that, just a single wire. You might need to get some large connectors to work on that wire size.

 

[sck_nogas]

5mm² in area... you can't measure that directly with a caliper (conversion chart says it should be about 2.5mm in core dia).

Definitely sufficient ... 4awg would be labeled as ~20mm² on the wiring diagram (e.g. the primary battery cables for the gas engined vehicles).

Edit: I just noticed that the terminal attached to the other end is labeled 8awg-5/16", and it's oversized...

You need to account that you are using braided wire which is going to appear a little bigger than a solid core wire. 4 is really big stuff like sk66 mentioned, you wouldn't need to double up with that, just a single wire. You might need to get some large connectors to work on that wire size.

Well, I've rebuilt the cable with the 4 gauge wire, I had gotten 8 gauge wire but it was less flexible.
So, here's the new wire harness to reinstall. Also re-did the Oil Pressure wire.

Now to install it back in and get driving again!

 

[sk66]

I had gotten 8 gauge wire but it was less flexible.

That's interesting; I was assuming they used dual cabling because it was more flexible (or flatter)...

 

[Delica_Dad]

That should do the trick!

 

[sck_nogas]

That's interesting; I was assuming they used dual cabling because it was more flexible (or flatter)...

The only 8 gauge wire I could find locally (in white) had fewer (but thicker) strands in the wires, thus they were less flexible than the 4 gauge wire I got.

 

[Growlerbearnz]

Nice! If it's not too late, maybe heatshrink that oil pressure connector to give it a bit of strain relief, they always break where the wire enters the connector.