Aluminum Radiator, Electric fan and intercooler

Nulla

Active Member
Just got back from a 3 month in Baja California. I would like to make the following improvement in preparation for the next travel. My rig is JB500 (same as L300) turbo diesel with manual transmission. Can someone tell me where to source the following:
1. Aluminum radiator and an electric fan to be installed in front of the radiator.
2. Intercooler with an electric fan.

Thx
 
Delicaworks and T³ 4x4, both in Taiwan, can source high quality aluminum radiators. I know T³ has an intercooler kit also.

T³ is only on Facebook, but very responsive via email. Delicaworks has a website (that is never updated) and an instagram account. Probably on FB also.


 
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Delicaworks and T³ 4x4, both in Taiwan, can source high quality aluminum radiators. I know T³ has an intercooler kit also.

T³ is only on Facebook, but very responsive via email. Delicaworks has a website (that is never updated) and an instagram account. Probably on FB also.


Thx i message T3 and Delicaworks. I could not find the Intercooler on their catalog.
 
If iM not mistaken their ic kit had a custom intake and was designed for rigs without ac running in them, which seems kinda of nuts considering it was taiwan. Maybe it was a rear ac delete.
 
If iM not mistaken their ic kit had a custom intake and was designed for rigs without ac running in them, which seems kinda of nuts considering it was taiwan. Maybe it was a rear ac delete.
It required relocating the front AC radiator.
Seems like they've significantly reduced what they are offering for sale... probably due to international shipping and supply issues right now.
 
@sk66 I just got a reply from T3 4x4. Is T3 4x4 and Delicaworks same company? Are the product they are selling the same? Just got a reply from T3 they have an aluminum radiator and Intercooler but the Intercooler is for RHD. I am checking if it is possible to install on my rig.
 
@sk66 I just got a reply from T3 4x4. Is T3 4x4 and Delicaworks same company? Are the product they are selling the same? Just got a reply from T3 they have an aluminum radiator and Intercooler but the Intercooler is for RHD. I am checking if it is possible to install on my rig.
They were the same company, they are not anymore (but it's the same radiator AFAIK). I was not aware of Nomadic's offerings; but I do not really believe their claims of 20% HP gain per stage (36%; 29HP)... I'd be kind of surprised if all of that gains 20% total (100HP).

IMO, the intercooler and increasing boost to 14-16 psi will make 90% of the differences; adjusting the boost pressure is free and easy. Of course, tuning the IP also makes a difference (particularly if it is detuned, adjusted poorly, slightly off time), but the biggest part of that is also a pretty simple free DIY.
 
FYI a month ago I ordered the t3 aluminum radiator and communications and shipping were great. The only issue to be aware of is the auto trans line near the diff. (You have manual ! ). When I was shopping I found the intercooler upgrade from them somewhere on Facebook product listing. As stated above, it did look tricky to install
 
They were the same company, they are not anymore (but it's the same radiator AFAIK). I was not aware of Nomadic's offerings; but I do not really believe their claims of 20% HP gain per stage (36%; 29HP)... I'd be kind of surprised if all of that gains 20% total (100HP).

IMO, the intercooler and increasing boost to 14-16 psi will make 90% of the differences; adjusting the boost pressure is free and easy. Of course, tuning the IP also makes a difference (particularly if it is detuned, adjusted poorly, slightly off time), but the biggest part of that is also a pretty simple free DIY.
My rig will do 14 to 16psi boost no problem. I have taken out the relive valve. The problem is that when I boost 14 to 16 my egt and water temp goes up. That is the reason I want to install an aluminum radiator with a fan I can turn on manually, and Intercooler. I already have 2.5 pipe at the turbo but I am also thinking of the stainless steal down pipe they have. The other thing I am looking at is their air filter. Basically, my goal is to make air coming in more efficient and exhaust coming out easier. Tell me if you have other ideas. I don’t want to advance timing or the IP pump. Reliability is a number one priority for me. Thx
 
It sounds to me like the best thing you could do is add an intercooler. That will bring down the temps and gain you a bit of power.

The IP (on the L300) is very basic and detuned as stock. But if you have added an EGT gauge (and monitor it) you can tune it up some w/o risk. You don't have to go full out with the adjustments (e.g. a couple turns of the star wheel and a little more full-load fuel adjustment; just to make sure it's not seriously detuned).

At 80hp the stock exhaust diameter isn't really an issue... but a 25yr old "quiet" muffler packed with soot is though (and catalytic converters if fitted). A new high flow muffler will show some small gains in slowing EGT climb and reducing turbo lag. Adding larger diameter/shorter pipes will add a smaller amount on top of that. You can additionally swap to a larger diameter down tube and move the restriction a little farther up, but it won't make much difference IMO... it's an 80hp, low RPM motor, with a small turbo... for improvements in the exhaust to really make a difference you need to start at the other end with higher fueling and a bigger turbo.

The stock air filter is not an issue... again, 80hp/low rpm/little turbo. Adding a long/poorly-designed snorkel could be (but doesn't seem to be with stock fueling).

The aluminum radiator is great for keeping water temps down; but it doesn't do anything for EGT's which is really the primary issue/concern. The intercooler addresses the EGT's some (and AFR) which also affects coolant temps. If your stock radiator is in good condition then it is adequate, assuming you manage the EGT's and don't have to do long hard climbs frequently. If you do frequently encounter climbs at 3-4k rpm, 14psi, 750˚c/1400˚f, and coolant climbing to 3/4+; then the radiator will be a great addition now... or; if your radiator is not in very good condition, it's cheaper than OEM.

But even if you do everything you're not going to gain a whole lot IMO; not without upgrading the IP/nozzles/turbo as well...

FWIW, I have the 2.5" side exhaust, snorkel, aluminum radiator, 15psi, lightly tuned IP... the only thing left is the one that would potentially make the most difference; intercooling. But for me, the cost of the kit, and hassles of installation (moving/eliminating AC) far exceed the benefit I would expect to see.
And I have done before/after tests (0-20km, 0-3000rpm, 0-15psi, hill climb EGTs) at each step to see what differences the changes made... and w/in my ability to measure things accurately I have seen negligible (immeasurable) gains at the low end (accelerating from a stop or up a hill). I have seen small gains in the ability to hold higher RPM/boost for a little longer before EGT's/coolant temps threaten to become excessive... that translates to a little better acceleration in the middle (like 30-80km), and a small but notable increase in the ability to climb a little longer and hold a higher speed (but it mostly seems to result in lower fuel economy).

Until someone actually shows dyno numbers/maps I'm going to stick to my opinions/experience; but others may disagree.
 
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It sounds to me like the best thing you could do is add an intercooler. That will bring down the temps and gain you a bit of power.

The IP (on the L300) is very basic and detuned as stock. But if you have added an EGT gauge (and monitor it) you can tune it up some w/o risk. You don't have to go full out with the adjustments (e.g. a couple turns of the star wheel and a little more full-load fuel adjustment; just to make sure it's not seriously detuned).
Yes i have and egt gauge, i monitor that constantly when i am driving especially on a climb. I will look into this option.
At 80hp the stock exhaust diameter isn't really an issue... but a 25yr old "quiet" muffler packed with soot is though (and catalytic converters if fitted). A new high flow muffler will show some small gains in slowing EGT climb and reducing turbo lag. Adding larger diameter/shorter pipes will add a smaller amount on top of that. You can additionally swap to a larger diameter down tube and move the restriction a little farther up, but it won't make much difference IMO... it's an 80hp, low RPM motor, with a small turbo... for improvements in the exhaust to really make a difference you need to start at the other end with higher fueling and a bigger turbo.
I already have a 2.5 down pipe, high flow muffler and a short pipe that i had done at the muffler shop. I don’t have a catalyctic converter. I got interested in this because i saw one on Delicawork I am thinking it will be more efficiently design. Bigger turbo could be an option in the future but it’s costly and i have an old engine about 60,000 mile, it does not burn any oil.
The stock air filter is not an issue... again, 80hp/low rpm/little turbo. Adding a long/poorly-designed snorkel could be (but doesn't seem to be with stock fueling).
I don’t want to add a snorkel, a snorkel on a JB 500 would be weird IMO. Again i saw an air filter at T3 and Delicaworks i think they claim to be more efficient. I just came back on a 3 month trip in Baja California, i need to change my air filter anyway.
The aluminum radiator is great for keeping water temps down; but it doesn't do anything for EGT's which is really the primary issue/concern. The intercooler addresses the EGT's some (and AFR) which also affects coolant temps. If your stock radiator is in good condition then it is adequate, assuming you manage the EGT's and don't have to do long hard climbs frequently. If you do frequently encounter climbs at 3-4k rpm, 14psi, 750˚c/1400˚f, and coolant climbing to 3/4+; then the radiator will be a great addition now... or; if your radiator is not in very good condition, it's cheaper than OEM.
When my EGT reading is up i can see my water temp go up, so i think there is a relation there. I also had an issue with a small leak while i was in the Baja, the radiator shop had to close two of the vains. I not really a fan of aluminum radiator because getting them repaired while on travel can be a pain. I want to put an electric fan in front of the radiator that i can manually turn on when needed.
But even if you do everything you're not going to gain a whole lot IMO; not without upgrading the IP/nozzles/turbo as well...
What do you mean by upgrading IP nozzles? Will this make a difference with out changing the turbo.
FWIW, I have the 2.5" side exhaust, snorkel, aluminum radiator, 15psi, lightly tuned IP... the only thing left is the one that would potentially make the most difference; intercooling. But for me, the cost of the kit, and hassles of installation (moving/eliminating AC) far exceed the benefit I would expect to see.
And I have done before/after tests (0-20km, 0-3000rpm, 0-15psi, hill climb EGTs) at each step to see what differences the changes made... and w/in my ability to measure things accurately I have seen negligible (immeasurable) gains at the low end (accelerating from a stop or up a hill). I have seen small gains in the ability to hold higher RPM/boost for a little longer before EGT's/coolant temps threaten to become excessive... that translates to a little better acceleration in the middle (like 30-80km), and a small but notable increase in the ability to climb a little longer and hold a higher speed (but it mostly seems to result in lower fuel economy).
I will look for a video on lightly tunning the IP. I have a JB500 which is a lot heavier. I do long travels alone that is why reliability is a big issue for me, I am trying to look at options that make the engine more efficient with out compromising reliability. On flat i can currently cruise at 55 MPH at 12PSI Boost. I am just trying to do a little better maybe 60mph at 14psi Without raising the temperature.

thank you very much
Until someone actually shows dyno numbers/maps I'm going to stick to my opinions/experience; but others may disagree.
 
Again i saw an air filter at T3 and Delicaworks i think they claim to be more efficient. I just came back on a 3 month trip in Baja California, i need to change my air filter anyway.
Not more "efficient;" more free flowing (high flow) which necessarily means less efficient at filtering out crap.
What do you mean by upgrading IP nozzles? Will this make a difference with out changing the turbo.
You can increase the size of the pump head and the injector nozzles for more fuel delivery; but there's really no point unless you also increase the turbo capability beyond stock (air supply).

Most of the things T3 sells are for highly tuned engines; starting with the increased fueling (IP & nozzle kit) and big turbo (16T) that they sell (sold). DelicaWorks just sells the same stuff for the most part (based on prior association).
 
there's really no point unless you also increase the turbo capability beyond stock (air supply).
or dramatically increase the oxygen density of your intake charge (cool it down)... I doubt an air-to-air intercooler would necessitate an enhanced IP, but an air-to-water system could really juice up a small turbo. Would love to work on that in the near future.
In short, I agree
It sounds to me like the best thing you could do is add an intercooler. That will bring down the temps and gain you a bit of power.
The colder you can get that intake charge, the more power you can squeeze out of those four cylinders.
You could grab any intercooler and have a shop fab up brackets to mount it. Most have small dual fans anyways. The tricky part will be routing the horrible mess of tubes running through the engine bay.
 
Regarding the high flow air filters, you should be able to get a K&N filter stateside if you really want, K&N E-4810 according to the Delica USA site. But to Steven's point, they also allow more stuff in. I would think if you are just using your van as a road-going vehicle that is absolutely fine however as a trail and exploration rig, where there is more dust flying around you want better filtration.

They've done a lot of good things with the vans in Taiwan but you also have to remember they have a very different environment than we do. It's tropical and hot af over there. It has a mountain range that is just banana's steep and most everything is paved. Offroading seems to be mostly limited to beaches, river beds, and some pits.

The conditions for lots of dust aren't as great as we have as we rip through deserts following a train of other vehicles. They also don't have the opportunity to do any true Overlanding over hundreds of miles like we do.

The use case over there is different and the design reflects that. They don't have highways that you travel 80 miles an hour on, over flat terrain, or even over mountain passes. Mountain roads are tighter, slower, and steep. Paired with the heat and humidity means that cooling is hampered.

Offroading is very different often requiring them to run big tires and lifts, even snorkels. For us, snorkels are really just a look-type thing. They don't have access to backcountry settings quite like we do nor do they require the range. Getting 250mi to a tank of fuel will get you across half the island over there.
 
Just be aware that, the last I knew, the Taiwanese intercooler kits were designed for Left Hand Drive L300s. Fitting them to a right hand drive might involve some fabrication and modification, as the drivers side floor panel and handbrake lever are right where the intercooler pipes need to run.

That was a while back though, they might have adjusted their kits since.
 
Regarding the high flow air filters, you should be able to get a K&N filter stateside if you really want, K&N E-4810 according to the Delica USA site. But to Steven's point, they also allow more stuff in. I would think if you are just using your van as a road-going vehicle that is absolutely fine however as a trail and exploration rig, where there is more dust flying around you want better filtration.

They've done a lot of good things with the vans in Taiwan but you also have to remember they have a very different environment than we do. It's tropical and hot af over there. It has a mountain range that is just banana's steep and most everything is paved. Offroading seems to be mostly limited to beaches, river beds, and some pits.

The conditions for lots of dust aren't as great as we have as we rip through deserts following a train of other vehicles. They also don't have the opportunity to do any true Overlanding over hundreds of miles like we do.

The use case over there is different and the design reflects that. They don't have highways that you travel 80 miles an hour on, over flat terrain, or even over mountain passes. Mountain roads are tighter, slower, and steep. Paired with the heat and humidity means that cooling is hampered.

Offroading is very different often requiring them to run big tires and lifts, even snorkels. For us, snorkels are really just a look-type thing. They don't have access to backcountry settings quite like we do nor do they require the range. Getting 250mi to a tank of fuel will get you across half the island over there.
I will look at the K&N filter. A lot of our travels/overlanding will be outside of the USA. We just spend 3 months in the Baja mostly off road in dust filled areas. We spend 6 to 7 hour traveling on the “Northern roads” 100% sand, dry mud, wash boards, pot holes, gravel road. We don’t really do “off roading” unless we need to get from point A to B. The current plan is to travel to mainland Mexico and the Northern part of Guatemala starting in September. That is what we are preparing for. Thx
Just be aware that, the last I knew, the Taiwanese intercooler kits were designed for Left Hand Drive L300s. Fitting them to a right hand drive might involve some fabrication and modification, as the drivers side floor panel and handbrake lever are right where the intercooler pipes need to run.

That was a while back though, they might have adjusted their kits since.
Yes I saw that, I am asking them if they have made one for RHD, I have not gotten an answer. What do you think of the down pipe and tail pipe assemble that Delicaworks sells. Thx
 
@Growlerbearnz @sk66 Should i get these silicone hose?
they are suppose to create more space but i am not sure they do anything to the performance. I think i can connect the aluminum radiator using OEM hose.Thx

There is also a pipe/hose that will connect the air filter more straight to the intake. Is this worth getting?

The inter cooler they sell is for LHD.
 
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