CV Axles

rdelica

Active Member
I'm replacing my CVs soon, and short of ordering some from Canada or Japan, I'm chasing down a rumor of forgotten origin that our CVs and those of Monteros are interchangeable. I've been scouring Delica.ca for an answer with no luck so far.

So: anyone have experience with this?
 
That is quite possible. I think you can use a Dodge Raider (89?) also.
 
I'm replacing my CVs soon, and short of ordering some from Canada or Japan, I'm chasing down a rumor of forgotten origin that our CVs and those of Monteros are interchangeable. I've been scouring Delica.ca for an answer with no luck so far.

So: anyone have experience with this?

Any update on your CV axle? I'm needing to replace mine too and was wondering the exact same thing.

My CV boot is completely shot and I started to hear some popping on tight turns. When looking up part numbers it appears to cross with a late 80's/early 90's Mighty Max and Montero. The spline count is correct (28) and the bolt pattern looks the same. I'm just not sure of the length. Does anyone know what the length of the axle should be? I'd rather not disassemble the whole thing just to measure and find out it's wrong.

Here's what I found from AutoZone. It says 20 1/16" for overall compressed length.
 
Montero CV axles work. FYI the spline count is different for manuals and autos though. Just be mindful when you order
 
Not sure where to find the MCC part number, but I bought this for my 1990 automatic, and it works great. It's the front left:

https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/duralast-gold-cv-axle/403323_0_0_1277_78655

The autozone part number is 7901N

That's what I had my eye on. Did you have any problems with the inner spline counts matching or the length? Or have you had any problems when 4WD is engaged? Apparently there are some have a 25 spline inner and others are 28 inner, but I think the 28 is only on the manual transmissions. I emailed Rising Sun in BC and was told that the Montero CV axles don't match with Delica. He said there are two different shaft diameters for the Delica :confused:, but had both in stock for $220...used.

My Deli is also a 1991 automatic, so I think I'll take a chance and try the one you purchased. I can always return it and buy the used ones if it doesn't fit.

As far as the Mitsubishi part number goes...
I looked up my van here using my frame number. Then navigated the section on front drive axles. There were multiple Mitsubishi part numbers for the front axle and I'm not certain on a single one for the whole assembly. There are part numbers for the inner and outer joints but I wasn't able to find a part number for the whole thing. Anyway, those part numbers crossed with the Mighty Max/Montero/Ram50, etc of the same era. So that's why I'm feeling more confident about ordering the one from AutoZone.
 
For any jdm stuff my mechanic has me research/order parts and then he puts them in. He is supposedly very familiar with delicas, and he didn't mention any troubles with the install. That said, this was a fairly recent repair, and I haven't been in 4wd much at all since then.
I still have the original and could take measurements if that helps
 
For any jdm stuff my mechanic has me research/order parts and then he puts them in. He is supposedly very familiar with delicas, and he didn't mention any troubles with the install. That said, this was a fairly recent repair, and I haven't been in 4wd much at all since then.
I still have the original and could take measurements if that helps

Good to know. If it's not too much trouble it'd be nice to have those measurements - it could save me a lot of time knowing whether or not the dimensions are the same. Could you measure the following?
-Diameter of the inner shaft
-Spline count of inner shaft
-Overall compressed length from tip to tip.
 
Sorry for the delay. Food poisoning had me out of commission for a couple days there.

So the compressed length is actually ~24 1/4" on the original axle. Oof. My apologies for the bad info earlier. That's a whole inch longer. I guess I need to replace mine for one with the correct length?
 
Sorry for the delay. Food poisoning had me out of commission for a couple days there.

So the compressed length is actually ~24 1/4" on the original axle. Oof. My apologies for the bad info earlier. That's a whole inch longer. I guess I need to replace mine for one with the correct length?

Maybe? Have you tested them in 4wd yet?
 
No, I have been apprehensive to try it out since measuring the old axle. What's the worst case scenario here?
 
Not entirely sure, truthfully. But if they fit, I can't imagine the result being too bad? I'd test it progressively and see how it does.
 
Sorry for the delay. Food poisoning had me out of commission for a couple days there.

So the compressed length is actually ~24 1/4" on the original axle. Oof. My apologies for the bad info earlier. That's a whole inch longer. I guess I need to replace mine for one with the correct length?
The ability to compress farther shouldn't be a problem. But if they can't extend as far that probably would be.
 
Finally tested out the 4wd with the questionable cv axle in. Did not have any issues with it. No weird noises, and the van performed great!
 
@13mclean What type of terrain did you test them on?

Hit maybe 25 miles of gravel roads. Forded a 2ish ft deep river. Rode some chunky gravel along the river bed, and made sure to test the steering gradually all the way to the left and right. Found a bit of a muddy, rooty trail to try out as well. Nothing too extreme or off camber, but the clinometer probably hit 20 degrees at one point. I was taking it nice and slow as this was my first time off road.
 
So I went ahead with the recommendation of @13mclean back early July. I ordered the Montero axle from AutoZone. When compressed, it was maybe a quarter of half inch shorter than the original, but when fully extended it was exactly the same length. I followed @Growlerbearns post on the Canadian forum for how to remove it. You can find his amazingly detailed walk-through here. I had an issue with the c-clip on the inner stub shaft. At peak frustration, I whacked the outer shaft end with a 3lb sledge:eek: to try to pop it in there. When that didn't work, I had to remove it and crimp the c-clip tighter in order to allow it to pop in to place in the front diff. Once I did that it clicked in right away. I learned my lesson: precisely machined parts and hammers don't mix. A few of the outer splines were mashed and I didn't know this until I tried to slip the locking hub assembly over it. A few minutes with a hand file and I was back in business. Once I had it all back together I took her for a spin and had zero issues.

Right around the same time I did this work, I had new tires installed (General Grabber AT2 - very happy with them) AND an alignment done. In the weeks following a creaking/popping sound developed on slow, tight right turns. When I was doing the CV axle job I had to separate the outer tie rod and in the process I split the dust boot. So I replaced that after finishing up that job. I thought maybe that was the sound. I took it back to the alignment shop thinking maybe when they were tweaking the cam bolts something happened - I was told at the time of the alignment time that they were pretty stripped out and couldn't be adjusted much more. The guy at the shop had it up on a lift and checked all the suspension parts and said nothing looked suspicious. I was in the garage with him as he was tugging on parts and trying to wiggle things around. Nothing jumped out at us. He thought that maybe the grease in the upper ball joint moved around when I had the steering knuckle assembly off for the CV axle job and was now binding/popping. It did look like it could use some grease, however that upper ball joint is a sealed one - no grease nip :confused: (why is that even a thing).

Shortly after this inspection I went on a trip to SE Oregon through the Owyhee canyon land area. I spent ~150 miles on rough roads in 4H and 4L with zero issues in performance. The van did great in the desert, crawling up and down those rocky roads. But I'm wondering if all the bumping around exacerbated all the front end sounds.

Any thoughts out there?
 
Is it possible the new tires are just rubbing on the wheel well?

The tires are the same size that I had on there (235/75 R15). No signs of rubbing. And it’s definitely a pop/clunk sound as opposed to a rubbing sound.
 
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