Is there a secret to finding bolts that I just don't know about?

TheChristmas

TheChristmas

Member
I'm looking for mitsubishi part 32502B (BOLT,FR WHEEL HUB) available in the US. It's a 14mm wrench 10mx1.25px35mm partially threaded bolt. Maybe a 1.5p. I need the bolt and its nut.

When I google the part number I get all sorts of nonsense. Tapered bolts, banjo bolts, lug bolts, but not the actual bolts I need.

Amayama has the bolt, but it's like $15 to ship it from Japan.

When I google the bolt size, looking for some sort of third-party solution, the only thing I can find is this bolt in the UK. Look great, but again I'd get murdered on the shipping.

Is there a secret to finding bolts that I just don't know about?

I haven't even started looking for the nut.
 
TheChristmas said:
You think these are strong enough to replace one of the bolts that holds the rotor to the hub assembly?
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No, maybe. They are A2-70 stainless... the 70 indicates cold worked; not hardened. Class 70 is notably lower than class 10.9 (and 8.8) in strength. They are also unlikely to be JIS spec bolts; they are almost certainly standard DIN metric and the head size will be larger (15mm). You also do not want fully threaded in a partial thread application.

But I don't know the actual specs of the bolt you are replacing, and it could probably be made to work if necessary... especially only replacing one.

I would get this bolt from Zorro. Zorro isn't always the best with their descriptions; I believe it is a 10pk based on the manufacturer's part #.
 
No, I would get a 12.9 rating bolt. That was just an example of the naming for them. You want to say it like 10x1.25 then space, then the length. Then grade. 12.9 being the high grade stuff.
 
Btw they have these at my local ace hardware, high quality bolts. Also, Napa or other auto store. This isn’t a hard bolt to find
 
ShelbyD said:
No, I would get a 12.9 rating bolt.
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There are no class 12.9 bolts used on these vehicles; head marking 4 = class ~5.8, 7 = 8.8, 8 = 9.8, and 10 = 10.9.

There are some potential negatives to using a bolt harder than specified, like over time wearing of the part rather than the bolt (cheaper/easier to replace), particularly in places where the bolt is intended to fail first, not being under the right clamping force/tension when torqued to spec, and they tend to have an even larger head diameter.
 
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sk66 said:
There are no grade 12.9 bolts used on these vehicles; head marking 4 = grade 4.8, 7 = 8.8, and 8 = 10.9 (closest match).

There are some potential negatives to using a bolt harder than specified, like over time wearing of the part rather than the bolt (cheaper/easier to replace), particularly in places where the bolt is intended to fail first, not being under the right clamping force/tension when torqued to spec, and they tend to have an even larger head diameter.
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Ah, these heads are marked 10. So I'm looking for 10.9?
 
TheChristmas said:
Ah, these heads are marked 10. So I'm looking for 10.9?
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Well, according to the shop manual there are no bolts marked 10; but yes, probably... at least the one you are replacing is class 10.9. The torque for that bolt (49-59 NM) follows the standard torque for a 10mm #8 bolt (52-57 Nm) according to the manual.

The head mark 8 is actually class 9.8, but that is pretty uncommon to source third party... I updated the list to be more accurate.
 
TheChristmas said:
Oh, maybe I'm looking at the wrong bolt on the diagram? This is the bolt I'm after. Is this not 32502B (BOLT,FR WHEEL HUB)? I hope I haven't been on a wild goose chase this whole time!
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I believe you have the right bolt... and that is obviously marked as class 10 (10.9). It also has the split washer under the nut, and not under the head... a bolt with an integrated washer can be a pain to convert.
 
sk66 said:
There are no class 12.9 bolts used on these vehicles; head marking 4 = class ~5.8, 7 = 8.8, 8 = 9.8, and 10 = 10.9.

There are some potential negatives to using a bolt harder than specified, like over time wearing of the part rather than the bolt (cheaper/easier to replace), particularly in places where the bolt is intended to fail first, not being under the right clamping force/tension when torqued to spec, and they tend to have an even larger head diameter.
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Okay then 10.9 whatever.
 
Sometimes trying to find bolts is just nutty. I had trouble finding a rear lower control arm bolt. Eventually I had to install an SAE bolt of nearly the exact dimensions. For this item Montero bolts were two short, I checked.

Living in the states we have a great resource for parts with the PicknPull chain of salvage yards. Mitsubishi Monteros are sold here and scrapped here, all gas I think. There are lots of parts that are shared in common with the Delica. Nuts, bolts and trim screws, drivetrain and brake parts are readily available.
One truly great aspect of their business model is that they list their vehicle inventory on the internet. Google Row 52 and follow the prompts. It is also possible to set up alerts where they will send you an email when a new vehicle you are searching for is placed in their yards. Another positive is that the vin #s are also listed so you can use a vin decoder to see how vehicle you are looking for is equipped if you need a particular option.

That hub bolt you are looking for should be available by the dozen. Salvage yards are a treasure hunt. When I was a kid you had to go in person or at least call to see if they even had the vehicle you are looking for, I love using the keyboard and then traveling towards a known destination. Good Luck.

PS When I am stripping parts from a salvage vehicle all the nuts, bolts, screws clips etc. I remove go in the tool bag. Never know when you might need one.
 
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