L300 Interior light replacement

bbaker22

Active Member
On my recently acquired L300, I have a couple interior light that need replacement. I specifically want to start w/ the door lights. What is the proper way for removing the lens without breaking stuff? It looks like you just pry off the red lens with a flat blade screwdriver, but a little gentle attempt had me thinking I was doing it wrong...

I'll probably move onto the overhead lights after that, so any advice there is appreciated.

Thanks,
Brad
 
That's the one. The red lenses have notches on the ends to put a screwdriver into, but they're hard to see with the way the lens is embedded in the door handle.

The rectangular overhead lights also have a notch for a screwdriver, but they can be trickier: the clear lens is clipped to a clear bracket, the first time you try to remove the lens you can end up levering on the bracket. Just find the screwdriver notch and use that.
 
Front dome light cover easily popped off with fingers. Rear took a bit more force with fingers and shows signs of cracking.

Small bulbs appear to be 7x28mm

Large are 8x30mm

I will source some LED replacements. Any known gotchas?
 

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Any luck on sourcing LED replacements for the door and dome lights? Was wanting to replace the old interior bulbs as well.
 
Yeah, I bought a couple different types from amazon. Probably not exactly correct, but they have been working fine. The difference is huge. Way more usable light and I no longer stress about leaving the light on and killing the battery.

I think the doors used these (28mm Yorkim Festoon bulbs):

And, the ceiling lights (domes, map reading, etc) used these (31mm Yorkim Festoon bulbs):
 
Awesome thank you! I'm excited to not burn my arm on the door lights anymore, its crazy how hot these old bulbs get so fast.
 
I thought I'd revisit this thread with a possible "gotcha" based on a recent (somewhat scary!) personal experience.

I replaced my two interior front door lights (the ones in the armrests with the red lenses) with 28mm Yorkim De3175 LED "festoon" bulbs.

These worked great at first. I polished off all the scratches on the red lenses, and enjoyed my new brighter bulbs, happy that they'd no longer be likely to drain my battery while camping.

Then, several months later, on my birthday of all days, I went to start up my van (usually starts up right off, but it'd been a while since our last trip). I cranked it several times, no luck. Then I smelled something. Then I saw smoke.

When I flung open the passenger door to investigate (thought it was from the engine at first!), I saw a very tiny fire burning brightly inside the passenger armrest, with an ever-widening opening in the red lens covering what had been the little door light.

I put the fire out quickly, but the smell was awful, and has taken some time to air out! The plastic lamp housing inside the armrest had melted around the wiring harness that connects there. What had once been my LED lamp came out in almost unrecognizable chunks.

My father's an electrical engineer, so we did some troubleshooting. There appears to be nothing amiss with the battery setup or wiring in the van. He believes there's a design flaw with these LED "festoon" bulbs though: the metal heat sink that spans them. He thinks that heat warped it slightly, such that the metal heat sink contacted both sides, shorting out the circuit there. No fuse blew, instead... well, fire and smoke!

Here's a photo of how my red lens looked afterwards, rather sorry for itself (the melted white lamp housing looked like an amorphous blob, not pictured). Also in the photo, the other still-good-but-now-uninstalled driver side door's LED lamp, which may possibly be a design to avoid? Thinking of doing something custom with a clear lens, so that the LED can be smaller/less powerful, with no need for a heat sink on it!

The odd thing is, I didn't even think that the front passenger door was ajar when I was starting it up, so it's strange there was electrical current going to that lamp at all (I don't think those red lamps come on when you go to start up the van... though I can't check now, having so hastily uninstalled the driver's side door lamp to prevent further fiery issues). The battery had almost enough charge, but not quite, to start the vehicle.

IMG_0850.jpeg
 
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Yeah, I bought a couple different types from amazon. Probably not exactly correct, but they have been working fine. The difference is huge. Way more usable light and I no longer stress about leaving the light on and killing the battery.

I think the doors used these (28mm Yorkim Festoon bulbs):

And, the ceiling lights (domes, map reading, etc) used these (31mm Yorkim Festoon bulbs):
I had a much better fit with 29mm in the main dome/reading lights.

AUXLIGHT 6614 6641 6612F 6615 F30-WHP TS-14V1CP 29MM 1.14”Festoon LED Interior Light Bulbs 6000K Xenon White, Super Bright 6SMD Chips for Car SUV Truck Sunvisor Vanity Mirror Lights (Pack of 6) https://a.co/d/2aJrfDu
 
Hello everyone, just wanted to ask for any updates regarding any issues with these bulb replacements. I just got my Delica (yeih!) and want to replace most of the bulbs with LEDs. Also, I know this post was for a L300 and I've got a L400. Does anyone know if they fit?

Thank you
 
A thing I've noticed about some of these LED festoon lamps is that the current limiting resistors and printed tracks are very easy to short to the end caps, particularly the types with open ends (as shown in @DeliKit 's horror photo above). The pressure of the spring contact can cause the caps to distort over time. A blob of hot melt glue stick to fill the shell and provide a layer of insulation helps fix the problem. The LED chips should not normally generate enough heat to damage the lens as shown. Be careful with the types that have an aluminium block with chip-on-board (COB) style of LED (see photo). The insulated collar end cap is held in place by the uninsulated lead from the limiting resistor inside the body of the bulb providing an interference fit for the metal cap. If the bulb is a tight fit in the holder the cap and resistor can twist inside the body and break the lead or short it to the aluminium. Again, the simple fix is to carefully pull the end cap off the insulator and squirt some hot melt glue inside the hole and then fit the cap back on.

Al_LED.pngAl_LED_parts.pngAl_LED_body.JPG
 
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