L400 Pulling and Servicing the Injection Pump

Backdoor

Active Member
Hello All -

I am having the dreaded cold start sputter and smoke until the engine warms up and then it runs great until the engine goes cold again. Typically it only sputters a little until it warms up but we took a trip out to Spokane about a week ago and in Zero Fahrenheit temps it was pretty rough starting up. After attempting to start 2 or 3 times it would sputter pretty badly and spit and cough for quite a few minutes before I could get it to rev up to 1200 -1500 rpm and then it would warm up and run great.

From the description below and the other work that I have done to the vehicle I have to assume that the only thing left is that the IP pump needs a new seal. Another indicator for this is that I do have some shifting issues until the vehicle gets warmed up in that it wont shift into third gear until a very high rpm (4000 or so). Once warmed up it runs fine and shifts with no issue.

Air vs oil seepage through the main shaft IP seal. If the seal has degraded ‘slightly’ then air will seep through causing white smoke on startup and after a few mins due to heat introduction, it expands with the problem disappearing.
If the seal has degraded more than ‘slightly’ then oil will be introduced as well leading the other issues. See below a customer from 2010 /


Symptoms:
Engine starts easy on cold starts but will idle roughly (almost dying) after start up with lots of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust. It will idle and run smoother after a couple of minutes but will always shift irregularly on the drive to work. It had very bad fuel consumption (approximately 430 kms on about 65 liters) but I drive 900 ft up everyday. There were signs of black smoke when accelerating to speed up. The very annoying issue aside from the fuel consumption was its shifting pattern. The transmission doesn't know or can't really figure out which gear to shift at different rpms.
Diagnostics:
Engine and transmission computer are not on the same frequency...meaning the engine is not delivering the correct power based on the throttle position sensor and kickdown cable adjustments. We suspect a bit of fuel dillution (explains the blue smoke) and very rich condition (black smoke on acceleration) that the engine generally runs on.
Solution:
Well, the injectors were all cleaned up, its pressure settings corrected and spray patterns were met. We adjusted the throttle position settings and kick down cable adjustment as well. Having done that, we tested the L400 again and overall conditions improved but not satisfactory from what it should be. Only one thing remains that will contribute these symptoms as well....the injection pump. We removed it and did the overhaul and reseal. These were our findings on the injection pump....thru time, the front shaft oil seal hardens up and allows a certain amount of oil to get inside the pump. The mechanical fuel pump is inside the IP and sucks in the oil thru this seal as the whole front of the IP is exposed to oil along the timing chain/gear drives. This explains the blue smoke in the mornings as the oil slowly gets in overnight. As the oil affects the internal parts of the pump as well, the 'usual' governor sleeve gets sticky and thus affects its functions and will not respond to the fuel requirements it needs to deliver at different load conditions. So, after the IP overhaul, my L400 drives and shifts perfect! Fuel consumption improved to about 550kms on 65 liters. No smoke. Starts easy and smoothly even on cold days.

So I figured I would start this thread and let you guys know about all the challenges I will be facing in taking out the IP Pump and getting it rebuilt/serviced and then put back into the van.
 
My first question (For @stevenlee as he seems to have experience with this) is which seal needs to be replaced and should I have the pump rebuilt since its out of the vehicle anyway or with 100,000k miles on the engine should I just have to replace the front shaft oil seal?

And does anyone know where to get a rebuild kit or at least the oil seal for the IP?

Not sure if the oil seal is in this diagram. Looks like I would need to replace 07338C and possibly replace 07338B as well (Coolant O-Ring)

Injection Pump Diagram.gif
Thanks!

-Sean
 
I have pushed this project back into May. I have a local mechanic lined up to help with the pump pull. I have ordered the original Bosch seal and the rebuild kit for the IP. Still considering having the pump rebuilt by Oregon Fuel Injection down in Eugene. They did confirm they could do the rebuild on this pump but it would take a week or so.

Still a little nervous about getting the timing right when pulling the pump and putting it back in. Ill be sure to mark everything when I pull it. I did read that pulling the pump at TDC preloads the IP and the gear may slip back half a step when pulling the pump out. Will be sure to look at everything first before pulling the pump. I will try to take pics and post my journey along the way here to help anyone else out who needs to do the same. The seal on the IP seems to be a common issue with the L400.
 
Thank you so much for documenting this! This is the last piece of the puzzle for me before I feel really confident about taking my van way out in the mountains of Colorado. Read up a lot on how to perform this but also it's so far out of my wheelhouse I would love to have a second person's experience to go off of.
 
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Hi @Backdoor, sorry to revive the thread but I wanted to see if you went through with this rebuild or have any updates. My 4M40 has similar symptoms to yours. It has been losing prime overnight and is a burden to turn over in the morning, and has been getting steadily more difficult. Sputters a bit and tries to die unless you keep the rpms up at first, shifts at very high rpms while cold, etc. I've already done new injectors, and they improved things a bit, but clearly aren't the full scope of the problem.
 
Hi @Backdoor, sorry to revive the thread but I wanted to see if you went through with this rebuild or have any updates. My 4M40 has similar symptoms to yours. It has been losing prime overnight and is a burden to turn over in the morning, and has been getting steadily more difficult. Sputters a bit and tries to die unless you keep the rpms up at first, shifts at very high rpms while cold, etc. I've already done new injectors, and they improved things a bit, but clearly aren't the full scope of the problem.
No worries!

I have not yet had the pump serviced. I have a shop lined up to do it but it could take 2-3 days before they get me in and then another 2-3 weeks to get the pump rebuilt and then another 2-3 days to get the pump back in the engine. And our little daily driver died and we haven't had time to replace it nor have I had enough time to be without the van until I get another little beatermobile.

I did call one shop in Canada and they told me it's just a seal that needs to be replaced and not the pump needing a rebuild. So I am contemplating just getting the pump pulled and replacing the seal and negating the 2-3 weeks for the IP rebuild.

So I'm partial to just getting the seal replaced but part of me thinks if I'm pulling the pump anyways I might as well get it rebuilt.

I will post back when I get it done. It's just been a crazy season for us since last Spring.
 
I just replaced the front pump seal on mine and put it back in. It helped tremendously. Better hot starts, mpg, lower smoke, and smoother starts. It’s not that hard of a job, in the big scheme of jobs. The diagram pictured does not show the seal needing replaced. It’s a one day job if you have some basic tools and plenty of coffee.
 
@Backdoor how did it go with your IP? I beginning to have starting issues especially in cold weather.
@jdelica I never had time to get to it so I had a mechanic do it, I'm still having issues with the oil leaking into the fuel line. It leaks less than it did before but still having issues. Im torn between trying to find the time to do it myself or just take it to a shop that has done the repair before to get it done.
 
i vote do it yourself. It’s not that hard honestly.
I have the same problem with my 4m40. I am thinking of adding an electric fuel pump that I can turn on when engine is cold and then turn of when engine is at normal operating temp. A few questions in my mind is where to add the pump in the fuel line, before or after the fuel filter assembly? Also, what's the long term effect if I dont fix the seal, how easy is it replace the seal can it be done in one afternoon...
 
I believe there’s already an electric fuel pump. It’s called a lift pump. It lifts the fuel from the tank and delivers it at low pressure to the high pressure injection pump. So that won’t help. No the R&R on the injection pump is more than an afternoon for the uninitiated. If you’re comfortable doing work like that it could be a solid day
 
I have the same problem with my 4m40. I am thinking of adding an electric fuel pump that I can turn on when engine is cold and then turn of when engine is at normal operating temp. A few questions in my mind is where to add the pump in the fuel line, before or after the fuel filter assembly? Also, what's the long term effect if I dont fix the seal, how easy is it replace the seal can it be done in one afternoon...
When I bought my vehicle it had an adapted one, I thought about eliminating it but I don't know if it was intended as an improvement upgrade or if the OEM one was defective, They also removed the original clocks from the center console and adapted gas pressure gauges, voltmeters and exhaust temp gauges., I also want to have the original voltmeter, thermometer and inclinometer, and place the adapted clocks elsewhere.
 

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my 4M40 is on a 1998 Pajero 2.8. I've replaced all the hoses from the fuel pump/filter assembly up to the fuel tank. It didnt have any lift pump. I've installed the electric fuel pump before the fuel pump/filter and it worked as expected. the engine is idling perfectly w/ the electric pump on when cold. once the engine is at normal operating temperature I can turn off the pump and runs fine.
 
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