Laminate Flooring

rtaylor6753

rtaylor6753

Active Member
I bought some waterproof floating laminate w/ cork backing over the weekend with the intention of taking out carpet on floorboard only. Leaving carpet over wheel wells and behind front passenger seats over the engine compartment. I plan to install a sound deadening/heat barrier to metal floor, screw 1/4 subfloor to floor??? then finish with floating laminate t&G w/ a cork back for adding sound deadening. I am now having seconds thoughts about screwing down to metal floor. Any thoughts or suggestions??? I like the carpet but flooring would be much better living near the beach and camping in the woods.
 
13mclean said:
This is my plan as well, but 1/4" plywood is pretty flexy. I was going to try to go 1/2".
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Trying to minimize the build up layers, I would like to stay flush with trim at sliding door if at all possible. Might be able to get away with 3/8" subfloor. Or add furring strips in between ribs to decrease flex. I'll have a better idea once remove carpet. Are you going to screw into floorboard?
 
Yeah. Self tappers through the ribs I imagine. I'll also be going for flush with the side door lip, but not sure how that's going to play out yet. Trying to keep the captains chairs/runners too.
 
13mclean said:
Yeah. Self tappers through the ribs I imagine. I'll also be going for flush with the side door lip, but not sure how that's going to play out yet. Trying to keep the captains chairs/runners too.
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Yep. Sounds like we are doing exactly the same thing. Runners will stay except for maybe the one closest to door. May do cutouts/inserts if possible. I'll keep you posted on progress. We have waves coming this weekend and next, so not sure how much I'll accomplish over the next two weeks. Lol.
 
I used tongue and groove bamboo flooring and glued everything with no nails / gorilla glue etc.
Didn't want to drill holes for rust to take a grip.
 
PinkPig said:
I used tongue and groove bamboo flooring and glued everything with no nails / gorilla glue etc.
Didn't want to drill holes for rust to take a grip.
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You glued the floors down with gorilla or something more like liquid nails construction adhesive? Any issues with the floor moving, expansion, etc.?
 
I first put down closed cell foam insulation - something like this:
https://www.vandemon.co.uk/product/...MI-tHtw_yl3QIV4ZXtCh2fNAMYEAQYCSABEgI7nvD_BwE

Then tongue and groove bamboo on top:
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Vertical-Medium-Bamboo-Solid-Wood-Flooring/p/158154

It has survived sand, salt, seawater, a leaky skylight, mud and football boots and still looks ok.
No movement or issues as it butts up to the side carpet trim which provides expansion room.

A few pictures from work in progress a while back
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LzrpxozyD7s44Hb7A
 
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13mclean said:
Yeah. Self tappers through the ribs I imagine. I'll also be going for flush with the side door lip, but not sure how that's going to play out yet. Trying to keep the captains chairs/runners too.
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I ended up going with 1/2" birch plywood (lightest and strongest) 1/4" subfloor would have been much too flexy. I unscrewed the step at sliding door and inserted subfloor and finish floor under the lip and reinstalled screws to attached step. The step will need to be furred out 1/2" and longer screws to reattach. The captain chair will remain. I am fabricating 3/8" SS plate (spacers) to raise the tracks up so the finished floor will not rub when the captain chair slides forward and aft. I'll take picks once complete. See pics for flooring process.
 

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13mclean said:
Yeah. Self tappers through the ribs I imagine. I'll also be going for flush with the side door lip, but not sure how that's going to play out yet. Trying to keep the captains chairs/runners too.
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@13mclean I was not able to keep flooring flush with side step trim. Instead I slid the subfloor and laminate flooring under the lip by removing trim piece and reinstalling with longer screws. I also had to fur out the step, using drop from 1/2" ply. To keep the captain chairs operable, you will need to add 3/8" plate under the mounting positions. I work in steel fabrication and luckily we had some 3/8" SS bar laying around so I used that. (2) 1" x 2" and (4) 2" x 3" w/ 9/16" holes per captain chair. If you are keeping both chairs you will need (12) pieces of 3/8" plate. I was able to use the same factory mounting screws. They are plenty long.
 
rtaylor6753 said:
To keep the captain chairs operable, you will need to add 3/8" plate under the mounting positions. I work in steel fabrication and luckily we had some 3/8" SS bar laying around so I used that. (2) 1" x 2" and (4) 2" x 3" w/ 9/16" holes per captain chair. If you are keeping both chairs you will need (12) pieces of 3/8" plate. I was able to use the same factory mounting screws. They are plenty long.
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For someone w/o the resources of metal fabrication, wouldn't washer stacks suffice?
 
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