Question on D4BF Swap

Fdlplyr32 said:
In my opinion you are good, if the idle setting on the spindle is the same as factory. Weird that both the idle setting and the A/C idle diaphragm arm are both different from what I have.

For the diaphragm arm, at idle when my A/C kicks in it draws back and pulls the throttle bringing up the idle speed. You can see there is a gap which is different from yours. When activated it pulls the throttle back about 1/4 inch. I'm sure there is a service manual setting which I ignored. The effect is an rpm increase.

Of course, there are a ton of people here with more knowledge, I just know what worked for me. If I can measure something or more pics will help let me know.
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What's the distance between those two in your first pic?
 
Shaldridge said:
Yeah, essentially the new fuel line needs to be lower (moving it forward or back wouldn't make a difference) the old one sat more flush. it's that middle bit on the new one I need gone. And I'm honestly unsure if that's an "ok thing to do" Like does it screw up things if I remove that spacer (or what I assume is a spacer) (circled in pic)View attachment 26836View attachment 26837. as you
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I would remove the spacer, and use your old (shorter) banjo bolt. I bet when you get it apart you'll find the spacer is just a spacer.
 
Growlerbearnz said:
I would remove the spacer, and use your old (shorter) banjo bolt. I bet when you get it apart you'll find the spacer is just a spacer.
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I switched them out. Yeah, it was just a spacer. But I switched them back, cuz I'm just gonna use the original idle screw. Using the old would force me to tap the holes on the IP and come from the bottom which, now that the engine is in, is impossible.

Any idea what that banjo's torque might be? It's not in either manual. They show it, just not a torque for it.
 
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