Sheared Shock Absorber Bar Pin, suspension problems

[sven]

On a road trip; somehow the bar pin on my front left shock sheared. The previous owner had installed bilstein 33-230306. Took it to a shop and they fashioned a new bar pin from tool steel and when the wheel went back on the left was about an inch lower than the right. We retensioned the left torsion bar and gained about half an inch.

The theory is fatigued torsion bars allowed shock absorber to bottom out and over time sheared the bar pin. Heading up to rising Sun tomorrow, going to buy new shocks and torsion bars. Hoping that will prevent it from happening again. Any insight is appreciated.

 

[sealica]

In my case I was running pretty badly worn torsion bars for first 4 years or so of owning van. Lots of washboard "bump bump" gravel roads and big ruts & potholes. Lots of bottoming out.

The threads in my lower control arm (lower shock mount) took a beating. The actual shocks didn't fatigue enough for the metal to snap, but they ripped the bolts part way out of the control arm on RH side resulting in a menacing clank over every single bump. Also my bump stops were gone (one still had a few bits of rubber).

Replaced my torsion bars (along with having a threaded rod welded to the control arm in order to install new shocks) and installed new bump stops to play it safe although I don't think they're really used anymore and it's been great since.

I absolutely think my worn out torsion bars caused this (or at least accelerated it greatly); should've replaced them much sooner.

 

[sk66]

The previous owner installed the wrong shocks (unless you have a lift).
The 33-230306 compresses to 9.41"; the correct Bilstein is model # 24-013369, and it compresses to 8.86" (as it should).

 

[sven]

In my case I was running pretty badly worn torsion bars for first 4 years or so of owning van. Lots of washboard "bump bump" gravel roads and big ruts & potholes. Lots of bottoming out.

The threads in my lower control arm (lower shock mount) took a beating. The actual shocks didn't fatigue enough for the metal to snap, but they ripped the bolts part way out of the control arm on RH side resulting in a menacing clank over every single bump. Also my bump stops were gone (one still had a few bits of rubber).

Replaced my torsion bars (along with having a threaded rod welded to the control arm in order to install new shocks) and installed new bump stops to play it safe although I don't think they're really used anymore and it's been great since.

I absolutely think my worn out torsion bars caused this (or at least accelerated it greatly); should've replaced them much sooner.

Good to know, thanks man, will replace the shocks and torsion bars

 

[sven]

The previous owner installed the wrong shocks (unless you have a lift).
The 33-230306 compresses to 9.41"; the correct Bilstein is model # 24-013369, and it compresses to 8.86".

He did many things incorrectly… that is very helpful info and will help me rest easy after replacing the bars and shocks.

I don’t believe I have a lift. The shackles look stock. 3” roughly

 

[sven]

The previous owner installed the wrong shocks (unless you have a lift).
The 33-230306 compresses to 9.41"; the correct Bilstein is model # 24-013369, and it compresses to 8.86".

So I’m guessing the rear shocks should also be changed if a lift hasn’t been done.

 

[sk66]

I don’t believe I have a lift. The shackles look stock. 3” roughly

If you have the common 2" (1" actual) lift you would have 1" spacers at the upper ball joint in front (or maybe long shaft ball joints)... the shackles/lift in the rear make no difference for the front shock. Offhand I think ~ 3" is stock... I forget what they look like.

So I’m guessing the rear shocks should also be changed if a lift hasn’t been done.

I wouldn't hazard a guess... best to compare numbers...