The L300 Suspension Thread

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*Ina Garten voice* If you don't have lasers at home, fluorescent string will do.

After chasing my tail trying to get the front toe to make sense, I figure out that the rear axle is crooked. Apparently I has the dumb today.
The left rear wheel is 5mm too far forward, which explains the pull to the left, and why I had to offset the front toe about 1.5mm to the right to get the damned van to rack straight without pulling. Once I'd measured it, suddenly all the alignment numbers make sense: 5mm on the rear axle makes for 0.2° thrust angle, and on the front wheels a 0.2° angle would be... 1.3mm. Close enough to the 1.5mm. I'm using string, not lasers, some inaccuracy is going to happen.

Now I get to fix the rear axle's alignment as well! This can of worms is well and truly opened.
 
Growlerbearnz said:
View attachment 3316

*Ina Garten voice* If you don't have lasers at home, fluorescent string will do.

After chasing my tail trying to get the front toe to make sense, I figure out that the rear axle is crooked. Apparently I has the dumb today.
The left rear wheel is 5mm too far forward, which explains the pull to the left, and why I had to offset the front toe about 1.5mm to the right to get the damned van to rack straight without pulling. Once I'd measured it, suddenly all the alignment numbers make sense: 5mm on the rear axle makes for 0.2° thrust angle, and on the front wheels a 0.2° angle would be... 1.3mm. Close enough to the 1.5mm. I'm using string, not lasers, some inaccuracy is going to happen.

Now I get to fix the rear axle's alignment as well! This can of worms is well and truly opened.
Click to expand...
Ugh...sounds like a huge PITA! Hope you get it sorted!
 
Well it's fixed- the left side of the axle had shifted 5mm forwards. When I loosened the U-bolts you could see it shift back. But how was it able to shift in the first place?

The leaf springs are not actually bolted directly to the axle, metal to metal, they're clamped between a couple of rubber pads. As you tighten the U-bolts, the top plate compresses the rubber pads. When the top plate hits the metal channel the U-bolt nuts stop turning, and you're done.
However the 28 year old rubber pads are no longer as resilient as they used to be, not exerting as much force on the spring as they should, and they're allowing the axle to move around under the springs.

Solution? Buy new rubber pads, really, but where's the fun in that (MR210201 x4). Quick solution? Trim 2mm from the top of the metal channel, allowing the top plate to crush the rubber pads even more. Waaaay more. Overkill more.

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Result? The axle is straight again, and the left side does not move. I know this because I can now feel the right side moving- the van drifts to the right when accelerating, and to the left when decelerating. Huh. It seems the un-modified axle mount is pretty flexible, but as long as both sides move the same you don't notice it. Until one side shifts but doesn't shift back.

I'm going to have to do the same to the right hand side. Tomorrow. Because after fixing that and finally sorting out the alignment I need a beer.

My final alignment specs, for reference:
Left: Caster 3°, Camber -0.3°, toe 0.5mm (measured at the 15" wheel rim)
Right: Caster 2.5°, Camber -0.3°, toe 0.5mm (for a total toe in of 1mm)

Reverse these figures if you're driving on the right.

This is a 90% highway alignment, with good road feel. The low toe-in and slight negative camber reduce understeer, which is what I prefer in a RWD. It's a touch tail-happy when provoked, but should calm down when towing or full of gear.
 
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Finally got all of my suspension components installed. Ended up paying a very talented mechanic a reasonable sum to do the install and alignment. Couldn't be happier and the van rides sublimely (Can I say that?). Had all new shocks, bushings, wheel bearings and seals, axle and tie-rod boots, upper control arm, ball joints, tie-rod ends and even drive-shaft U-joints. He even adjusted the torsion bars. I'm probably forgetting something... (And front differential mount bushings, too!)

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Thanks, once again, to @Growlerbearnz and @sk66 for guidance and help with many of the part #'s! You guys are the Jedi masters!

@oneadVANture, so you know...those upper control arms you found at Rock Auto were a perfect fit and saved the mechanic a lot of grief.
 
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@ccmickelson I haven't gotten around to writing an update yet, but I installed them on my van as well! Glad to hear they worked out for ya. I think two vans are a big enough sample size to say they officially work :D

-One
 
Hey Y'all, just checking - bout to order the upper (and probably lower for good measure) ball join assemblies. On the rock auto page (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi,1989,van,2.4l+l4,1208393,suspension,control+arm,10401) to refresh yer memories, ACDelco has options WITH and WITHOUT the welded tab. Which do I need? I remember @oneadVANture saying there was a tab for brake line mount, is that the tab he was talking about?

I ALSO need rear leaf springs, so if anyone has a lead on that, SUPER!
 
Cole Wilson said:
Hey Y'all, just checking - bout to order the upper (and probably lower for good measure) ball join assemblies. On the rock auto page (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mitsubishi,1989,van,2.4l+l4,1208393,suspension,control+arm,10401) to refresh yer memories, ACDelco has options WITH and WITHOUT the welded tab. Which do I need? I remember @oneadVANture saying there was a tab for brake line mount, is that the tab he was talking about?

I ALSO need rear leaf springs, so if anyone has a lead on that, SUPER!
Click to expand...
You want the one with the welded tab. It’s an exact replacement for the original.
Incidentally I have some extra rear leaf springs bushings as I ordered too many of one side. I’d have to figure out which ones they are. Be glad to send them to you.
 
ccmickelson said:
You want the one with the welded tab. It’s an exact replacement for the original.
Incidentally I have some extra rear leaf springs bushings as I ordered too many of one side. I’d have to figure out which ones they are. Be glad to send them to you.
Click to expand...

I'd be happy to take the bushings off your hands. I assume no matter where I source the replacement leaf springs, I'll be needing new bushings.

Additionally - my mechanic out here in WA, Eizo at Apex Auto, is very concerned about the replacement ball joints being for montero, not for the delica, but given that the rock auto search was for the mitsubishi van and everyone says they're a direct replacement, it seems like we're good to go?

He's requesting I get the camber and caster adjusters as well, has anyone had any luck finding those?
 
Cole Wilson said:
I'd be happy to take the bushings off your hands. I assume no matter where I source the replacement leaf springs, I'll be needing new bushings.

Additionally - my mechanic out here in WA, Eizo at Apex Auto, is very concerned about the replacement ball joints being for montero, not for the delica, but given that the rock auto search was for the mitsubishi van and everyone says they're a direct replacement, it seems like we're good to go?

He's requesting I get the camber and caster adjusters as well, has anyone had any luck finding those?
Click to expand...

I ordered these control arms for my 89 L300 and they were a direct bolt in replacement, and the balljoints have been holding up no problem so far if that helps at all!
 
Cole Wilson said:
I'd be happy to take the bushings off your hands. I assume no matter where I source the replacement leaf springs, I'll be needing new bushings.

Additionally - my mechanic out here in WA, Eizo at Apex Auto, is very concerned about the replacement ball joints being for montero, not for the delica, but given that the rock auto search was for the mitsubishi van and everyone says they're a direct replacement, it seems like we're good to go?

He's requesting I get the camber and caster adjusters as well, has anyone had any luck finding those?
Click to expand...

Glad you can use the bushings. PM me your address and I'll send you my Paypal address. I believe they will fit in a small Priority Mail box which is about $8.

The ball joints on those ACDelco control arms look exactly like the original OEM's that came off my van.

Not sure about the camber and caster adjusters.
 
Seems like you got your answer, but yes you want the welded tab!

I will look up the P/N I used for my tie rods tomorrow. Immediately after installing new parts I went to an old school racing shop for an alignment. I found some numbers in the shop manual. I'll see if I can dig them up tomorrow as well. Can has tracked very well since then so it seems to have done the trick
 
ccmickelson said:
I'm in the midst of doing a 4D56 for D4BF engine swap in my Delica and have been waiting for my interminable Amayama orders (now further delayed by the current G20 Summit in Osaka, which apparently shuts down everything) in order to continue with the project. In the mean time...I have begun ordering up suspension parts as just about everything but the shocks underneath the van is squeaky, creaky, dried up, cracked and worn out, including every bushing, boot and bellows which is not too surprising after 25 years and 150,000 miles. My plan is to maintain the stock suspension setup and just refresh as much as I can under there.
View attachment 2692

I plan on removing and repainting some of the components, including the control arms, sway bar, brake calipers, backing plates, wheel hubs, rear axle and various and assundry other bits and pieces.

So far I've gotten these parts in...

The first lot, which includes tie rods and ends, upper and lower ball joints and upper control arm bushings, came from a Taiwanese company called ALN Suspension that sells on Amazon under autochassisparts. The lot ran $246 even and got here in exactly 7 days. It all looks like high-quality stuff as far as I can tell. I'd be interested to know if anyone else here has experience with these parts.

View attachment 2690

The next lot, which includes, inner and outer CV boot kits and lower control arm bushings, are Febest equivalents and also sold on Amazon under Finest Auto Parts and ran $103 and took 5 days to get here.

View attachment 2694

The outer CV boot I.D. on the shaft side looks too narrow. I ordered the Febest BT-UN which is cross-referenced with the OEM part #MB526274 but the dimensions don't seem to be correct. This is also the boot that comes up on the Febest application page for the Delica P25W. It has the right length and hub-side I.D., but the axle I.D. is only 20mm and the axle is 30mm. Anyone familiar with this?

Here are the inner and outer boot side-by-side for comparison...

View attachment 2693

I suppose it is possible to "stretch" the outer boot over the axle but it is not ideal and I imagine it may fatigue the rubber over time.

The remainder of the smaller bushings, including the 4 leaf spring bushings, sway bar bushings, shock bushings and bump stops will hopefully, one day, arrive from Amayama. I have also ordered new bushings for the transmission and front diff mounts and will be installing new engine mounts when I install the D4BF.

I know many of you have already been down this road and I appreciate any comments, suggestions or advice on the matter.
Click to expand...

Just a heads up...the Febest BT-UN pictured here has disappointingly already begun to crack and split where it grips the axle.
 
That would be disappointing on an AWD car where it's turning all the time, but on a part-time 4WD where it's mostly just sitting there? Unacceptable.
...though I can see why you'd go for the Febest boot, the genuine item (MB896069) is US$70. Ouch.
 
Growlerbearnz said:
That would be disappointing on an AWD car where it's turning all the time, but on a part-time 4WD where it's mostly just sitting there? Unacceptable.
...though I can see why you'd go for the Febest boot, the genuine item (MB896069) is US$70. Ouch.
Click to expand...

Yes, it's a hard lesson. I'd be surprised if they make it another few months. Some of the shock bushings (can't recall the brand) are also showing cracks.
 
What is the general consensus on air/lift bags for the rear? I'm a Scuba instructor and 4 days a week I have 800+ pounds on tanks and gear in the back, and that's before adding a couple of passengers. If I get a stiffer suspension set-up I'm afraid the ride will be hellish when it is empty.
 
ccmickelson said:
I'm in the midst of doing a 4D56 for D4BF engine swap in my Delica and have been waiting for my interminable Amayama orders (now further delayed by the current G20 Summit in Osaka, which apparently shuts down everything) in order to continue with the project. In the mean time...I have begun ordering up suspension parts as just about everything but the shocks underneath the van is squeaky, creaky, dried up, cracked and worn out, including every bushing, boot and bellows which is not too surprising after 25 years and 150,000 miles. My plan is to maintain the stock suspension setup and just refresh as much as I can under there.
View attachment 2692

I plan on removing and repainting some of the components, including the control arms, sway bar, brake calipers, backing plates, wheel hubs, rear axle and various and assundry other bits and pieces.

So far I've gotten these parts in...

The first lot, which includes tie rods and ends, upper and lower ball joints and upper control arm bushings, came from a Taiwanese company called ALN Suspension that sells on Amazon under autochassisparts. The lot ran $246 even and got here in exactly 7 days. It all looks like high-quality stuff as far as I can tell. I'd be interested to know if anyone else here has experience with these parts.

View attachment 2690

The next lot, which includes, inner and outer CV boot kits and lower control arm bushings, are Febest equivalents and also sold on Amazon under Finest Auto Parts and ran $103 and took 5 days to get here.

View attachment 2694

The outer CV boot I.D. on the shaft side looks too narrow. I ordered the Febest BT-UN which is cross-referenced with the OEM part #MB526274 but the dimensions don't seem to be correct. This is also the boot that comes up on the Febest application page for the Delica P25W. It has the right length and hub-side I.D., but the axle I.D. is only 20mm and the axle is 30mm. Anyone familiar with this?

Here are the inner and outer boot side-by-side for comparison...

View attachment 2693

I suppose it is possible to "stretch" the outer boot over the axle but it is not ideal and I imagine it may fatigue the rubber over time.

The remainder of the smaller bushings, including the 4 leaf spring bushings, sway bar bushings, shock bushings and bump stops will hopefully, one day, arrive from Amayama. I have also ordered new bushings for the transmission and front diff mounts and will be installing new engine mounts when I install the D4BF.

I know many of you have already been down this road and I appreciate any comments, suggestions or advice on the matter.
Click to expand...


Has anyone else replaced their CV axels / have experience ordering aftermarket parts? Further down the thread @ccmickelson said the new boots had already begun to crack...

I rebuilt my cv axles on my old Audi and it did not go well...I'd really like to not rebuild anything and buy new axles if that is a possibility, has anyone been able to find full replacements? OEM is ideal but it doesn't seem like that is an option.
 
Pavioml said:
What is the general consensus on air/lift bags for the rear? I'm a Scuba instructor and 4 days a week I have 800+ pounds on tanks and gear in the back, and that's before adding a couple of passengers. If I get a stiffer suspension set-up I'm afraid the ride will be hellish when it is empty.
Click to expand...
I have Monroe MA708 air shocks on the rear. I run them at 20-30psi for everyday use (that's the minimum pressure you can use), pump them up to 90psi for long distance towing, and have pumped them up to 130psi for short periods for super heavy loads. They're 2.5 years old now and seem to work ok.
I've just added a thread in the FAQ on these shocks which has all the details of fitting them.

The nicest thing is they're cheap, and the install is easily reversible if you don't like them.
 
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