What is a good injector for the 4d56?

Growlerbearnz said:
What @Scott said. Bosch/Zexel injectors are designed to be rebuildable. If the shop doesn't want/know how to rebuild them, they're just lazy or incompetent.
Rebuilding (replacing the nozzle and pintle) is a safer option than replacing, as you keep your OEM quality injector bodies and springs which are guaranteed to work with your injection pump. Rebuilding also means recalibrating, which ensures all four injectors are working the same. That's not something guaranteed with cheap replacements.
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I got the OEM injectors. For sure I will not use this shop again. They been in business for 73 years rebuilding IP and injectors that is why I picked them. I asked to tune my IP a bit higher to get better performance. Should I take my new injector to the shop so that they can tune the IP to the new injectors? Is this necessary?
 

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As long as the injectors have the same spray pattern, you can have them adjusted to the pump. They only need the right kind of "washers" to do so.
 
floP said:
As long as the injectors have the same spray pattern, you can have them adjusted to the pump. They only need the right kind of "washers" to do so.
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I also got new OEM washers MD070717 and MD070718 are these the washers you are talking about? Thank you. What do you think of adjusting my IP slightly higher?
 
Nulla said:
I also got new OEM washers MD070717 and MD070718 are these the washers you are talking about? Thank you. What do you think of adjusting my IP slightly higher?
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Sorry, I didn't mean those washers. These are meant to seal the thread and to enable the heat to get absorbed by the head in order to protect the injectors from overheating, and therefore you will have to replace them. I was, however, talking of the spacers that you need to exactly preload the needle spring inside the injector. Those are allowed to be touched by the workshop-staff exclusively.
Greetings from Munich
 
The answer is "no". Nothing needs to be "matched".

The specs that are used for pump calibration are with special calibration injectors, calibration injection lines. Also a special calibration fluid is used. We never use regular diesel fuel in the calibration benches.

It gives the shop the ability to calibrate the injection pump with the same flow as it was new.
 
If your new OEM injectors are the correct part numbers for your engine, and the injection pump is still the original pump, then the new injectors don't shouldn't need calibrating. OEM parts are the same parts supplied to the assembly line, and are ready for installation.
 
Questions: this is the bottom injector gasket, it has a flat washer at the other side of the round washer, they are attached together. Which way is it installed? Flat washer down or up? also what is the tourque of the injectors? Cannot find it on the manual. Thx
 
The copper washers/gaskets (items 8 and 9 in the diagram) work either way round, but I install mine flat side down.

Torque to 50-60Nm. Torque is listed in the Torque Specifications table at the beginning of the chapter, and also on the assembly diagram (item 7).

Screenshot 2023-08-10 at 12.15.57.jpg
 
IP installed. I get a pups of blue smoke smoke when I press the throttle from idle. The smoke goes away at a higher rpm. My IP was tune to slightly higher performance when it was rebuilt, I am told 10%. Do I need to adjust fuel air ratio? It also sounds like it is missing a bit at idle. Idea?
 
Nulla said:
IP installed. I get a pups of blue smoke smoke when I press the throttle from idle. The smoke goes away at a higher rpm. My IP was tune to slightly higher performance when it was rebuilt, I am told 10%. Do I need to adjust fuel air ratio? It also sounds like it is missing a bit at idle. Idea?
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Correction, not blue smoke, it is white smoke
 
Check the bracket under the injection pump, like in this screenshot from the video:Screenshot 2023-08-11 at 16.20.27.png

See how one bracket has slotted holes? If the injection pump is working normally, the bolts are usually near the middle of those slots.
If the bracket looks like the one above, with the bolts all the way to one end of the slots, it's evidence that someone has changed the factory injection timing.

Probably the shop that last worked on the injection...
 
Growlerbearnz said:
Check the bracket under the injection pump, like in this screenshot from the video:View attachment 23266

See how one bracket has slotted holes? If the injection pump is working normally, the bolts are usually near the middle of those slots.
If the bracket looks like the one above, with the bolts all the way to one end of the slots, it's evidence that someone has changed the factory injection timing.

Probably the shop that last worked on the injection...
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Ok thx
 
@sk66, @Growlerbearnz I adjusted my IP according to video. The engine is now running smother and little black smoke when i suddenly press the pedal the smoke goes away quickly. No smoke at higher rpm. The engine also starts easily of course the engine is hot, i will wait till it cools down and try starting it again. I rotated the IP counter clock wise 1/4” or 6.35mm, (that is opposite of the rotation of the engine.) Is this advancing the IP or retarding it? should i keep rotating the engine in the same direction until all the smoke goes away, what happened if i over rotate. is it possible to make the smoke completely go away? On my googling they say some black smoke is acceptable on diesel engines. Thank you
 
Nulla said:
@sk66, @Growlerbearnz I adjusted my IP according to video. The engine is now running smother and little black smoke when i suddenly press the pedal the smoke goes away quickly. No smoke at higher rpm. The engine also starts easily of course the engine is hot, i will wait till it cools down and try starting it again. I rotated the IP counter clock wise 1/4” or 6.35mm, (that is opposite of the rotation of the engine.) Is this advancing the IP or retarding it? should i keep rotating the engine in the same direction until all the smoke goes away, what happened if i over rotate. is it possible to make the smoke completely go away? On my googling they say some black smoke is acceptable on diesel engines. Thank you
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CCW is advance. A little black smoke on acceleration is normal/correct. Too much advance is very bad for the engine, so I wouldn't push it. If you start hearing a hard knock in the engine it is pre-detonation (too much advance) which can destroy the motor...better to have a little white smoke on a cold engine rather then pre-detonation on a hot engine.
 
sk66 said:
CCW is advance. A little black smoke on acceleration is normal/correct. Too much advance is very bad for the engine, so I wouldn't push it. If you start hearing a hard knock in the engine it is pre-detonation (too much advance) which can destroy the motor...better to have a little white smoke on a cold engine rather then pre-detonation on a hot engine.
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Ok thank you
 
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