Part Number Thread for L300

Hyundai part #23124-42001 Damper Pulley (Harmonic Balancer/Crankshaft Pulley) fits the 4D56T and costs ~ 50% of the Mitsubishi part. OEM quality at Febest price...

bberryski said:

Hello friends, just did a input shaft seal and bushings on the Aisin 03-72l 4 speed transmission for my girlfriend's 93' exceed 46G4 gas Delica. Wanted to share some knowledge gained that will help anybody attempting to make your trans better insulated and not a constant loss lubrication system.
Symptoms:
Atf (red fluid) dripping from bottom of bell housing, especially while in gear.
Parts used:
Input shaft seal:
Ebay trans seal
Ton of overlap parts # wise but this one worked for us.

Upper trans crossmember bushings:

Per GrowlerBeamNZ's recommendation used these Nissan bushings and trimmed them 5mm in width to fit the crossmember
FEBEST NAB-134 BUSHING
Lower transmission mount bushing:

Quick rant about this, don't buy these from Delicausa.com ($45 a piece) because all he does is order these ones below off ebay ($12 a piece) and send them to your house. Nice scam he's running there.
Delphi TD896W (L300 lower trans mount compatible)
This required a hacksaw to cut the old bushing race and a hammer to pop them out. We used a vice and hammer to get all bushings back in. The input shaft seal required a small hole drilled carefully in the face of the seal and a screw to remove the old one.

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To be clear (I think you were pretty clear in your post), but you used two of these Delphi TD896W to replace the bushing only on both an L300's lower transmission mounts; reusing the brackets. A very nice alternative (<$12 on RockAuto!!) to MB581258 and MB581261 which are OEM and include brackets!?

sealica said:

To be clear (I think you were pretty clear in your post), but you used two of these Delphi TD896W to replace the bushing only on both an L300's lower transmission mounts; reusing the brackets. A very nice alternative (<$12 on RockAuto!!) to MB581258 and MB581261 which are OEM and include brackets!?

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That is correct! same diameter, reused and painted the brackets

Does anyone have a suggestion for the best vehicle to use when attempting to find Hyundai part numbers (via parts catalogs) that are compatible for a 1992 Mitsubishi L300 4D56?

Hyundai parts are generally cheaper and potentially more available/newer than mitsubishi OEM at this point ...

... If I understand correctly they're only going to cross well if it's engine related, and doesn't have the differences between 4D56T/D4BF listed elsewhere on this forum.

I'm using a 1995-2003 Hyundai grace (AGEHY75, 4D56T) and getting seemingly good results, but occasionally it points me at parts for an H-100 on sparekorea causing some skepticism despite parts *looking* very similar. Sometimes parts look *fairly* similar, as below:

Example: FUEL FILTER BODY

• Mitsubishi MB554592
  
• Hyundai
  3197244002
  

The Hyundai part does have that long tube in the center which might be a problem (unless you just use a different fuel filter going forward?? but that being said I have a WIX 33128 sitting on my desk, and I don't see how the tube would really interfere with fitting; except that I don't have diameter/thread measurements before me ...)

This one by Hyundai 3197043251 is an especially good package deal (if it's compatible). Includes the fuel filter, body, and water separator (*might* need wiring modification) all in one unit for like $29 USD (vs. $57 USD for just the body mitsubishi oem).

sealica said:

but occasionally it points me at parts for an H-100 on sparekorea causing some skepticism

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Porter and Grace are both H-100 related... much like the Truck/Van L300 variances.

sealica said:

This one by Hyundai 3197043251 is an especially good package deal (if it's compatible). Includes the fuel filter, body, and water separator (*might* need wiring modification) all in one unit for like $29 USD (vs. $57 USD for just the body mitsubishi oem).

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Just about any diesel fuel filter/separator would be "compatible"... I would buy/install that w/o concern (even if you couldn't connect the warning light; which I'm about certain can be modified to work as well).

Hyundai Part 3197043251 is an excellent value (primer/body + water sensor + fuel filter). Replaces MB554592 & MB554325 (with a fuel filter thrown in). Definitely glad I didn't purchase the primer/body and sensor separately; although I've got a spare fuel filter now since I didn't realize the other parts had issues until I went to do a pre-job investigation. I justified shipping from Korea with a few other parts; but considering the primer/body & sensor prices locally it's definitely cheaper once you add the fuel filter.

I wasn't able to swap the terminals over to the OEM connector since the Hyundai were slightly wider. I removed them properly to check if it was possible, but the OEM proved much trickier to remove. I realized the Hyundai terminals were wider and wouldn't fit anyways - needed to butt splice the cables together; but not worried about that at all - my OEM wires were extremely brittle and one fell off when I was uninstalling anyways.

Hyundai are bigger terminals, but smaller ~20awg wire; whereas the OEM is ~18awg. I assumed when splicing that black and black-red are the same function with both manufacturers.

Other differences are the bleed port (10mm) is now on the left (facing the filter/back of vehicle); which I actually like better. I also think it's got a rubber o-ring; whereas IIRC the OEM is just a dry bolt.

Ssr1013 said:

Having the hardest time tracking down two sets of front brake hose: MB238158 and MB500748. (I realize the line on the left still has the clip on it.)

Any thoughts would be great! Thanks.

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For front brake hoses, I believe the absolute best thing is to upgrade them to Stainless Steel. Follow the thread here for the lines. The hardest is getting the adapters to adapt the hoses from 3AN to 10mm metric. I just bought 3AN to 3AN and then reflared my front lines and installed a 3/16 3an fitting. Worked like a charm. https://starwagon.info/front-brake-upgrade/

Might we suggest an alternative braided stainless steel solution for your L300? One that’s custom built around Mitsubishi’s factory lengths and orientation. We will even give you a couple added inches for big brakes or added lift for free.



You also get piece of mind that you won’t have piece together multiple fittings that can loosen or fail. All of ours are crimped, come in your favorite colors and are guaranteed to last.

Just learned that the lack of heat in the front area is because the front blower motor needs to be replaced. Any idea what the part number is and if I have any options other than original delica parts? I have a 1993 L300 diesel star wagon 4×4

Amanda_sloan said:

Just learned that the lack of heat in the front area is because the front blower motor needs to be replaced. Any idea what the part number is and if I have any options other than original delica parts? I have a 1993 L300 diesel star wagon 4×4

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Part# MR03540316894

It seems the motor is discontinued but here’s a used one in the UK…

Or you can buy the whole assembly at Amayama…

You could also try Coombs Auto, or Glenn Shelly for a used unit.

I assume you’ve troubleshooted the thing and determined it’s not a blown fuse or bad connection?

Amanda_sloan said:

Just learned that the lack of heat in the front area is because the front blower motor needs to be replaced. Any idea what the part number is and if I have any options other than original delica parts? I have a 1993 L300 diesel star wagon 4×4

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DENSO 162500-4390 is stamped on my 1991 L300's blower motor.

I had the same problem (after checking for other issues in the heating electrical system) and replaced with a used blower motor. I almost grabbed an ebay european L200 Triton's motor which was much newer at 1996 or so and appeared identical in photos, but it sold before I could purchase. Found that by searching the above part #.

I'm definitely not certain, but some of the blower motors you get while searching "nd162500-4390" look like they could pretty easily provide a new stator & rotor that *might* plug into the L300's housing. Not sure - but when I was researching this option some leads were motors for Toyota Hilux Surf/Lexuses.

All that said my original blower motor bench tests fine, but there is a discernible difference in heat coming from the vents now that I've replaced it.

sealica said:

All that said my original blower motor bench tests fine, but there is a discernible difference in heat coming from the vents now that I've replaced it.

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This is the stuff that drives old vehicle owners nuts. You replace one thing, and it seems like something else went as a result.
My gut tells me these are unrelated, the blower motor shouldn't affect how hot the heat is. It just blows hot air passed the heater core, through the vents, into the van. I can see if it isn't spinning as fast, then perhaps it wouldn't feel as hot.

Other culprits, clogged heater core, a mouse built a nest in there...happened to me...or the control lever may be out of adjustment, messing with the hot/cold blend.

I'm not too sure on that last one for the front, but I do recall seeing this in the workshop manual for the rear.

If you've dug into the dash and or have pulled the controls out, this could be the issue.

FYI, With my heat going I get ~140F from my middle vent on a hot engine.

Yes, they checked

ccmickelson said:

Part# MR03540316894

It seems the motor is discontinued but here’s a used one in the UK…

Mitsubishi Delica L300 2.5 4d56 86-94 Front Heater Blower Motor for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mitsubishi Delica L300 2.5 4d56 86-94 Front Heater Blower Motor at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Or you can buy the whole assembly at Amayama…

Mitsubishi MB380580 HEATER ASSY

Mitsubishi MB380580 HEATER ASSY. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

You could also try Coombs Auto, or Glenn Shelly for a used unit.

I assume you’ve troubleshooted the thing and determined it’s not a blown fuse or bad connection?

Click to expand...

ccmickelson said:

Part# MR03540316894

It seems the motor is discontinued but here’s a used one in the UK…

Mitsubishi Delica L300 2.5 4d56 86-94 Front Heater Blower Motor for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mitsubishi Delica L300 2.5 4d56 86-94 Front Heater Blower Motor at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Or you can buy the whole assembly at Amayama…

Mitsubishi MB380580 HEATER ASSY

Mitsubishi MB380580 HEATER ASSY. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

You could also try Coombs Auto, or Glenn Shelly for a used unit.

I assume you’ve troubleshooted the thing and determined it’s not a blown fuse or bad connection?

Click to expand...

Yes, confirmed it isn't the resistor or anything electrical

Amanda_sloan said:

Yes, they checked



Yes, confirmed it isn't the resistor or anything electrical

Click to expand...

You can also reach out to @stevenlee who owns rising sun. You'll have an answer in minutes.

Amanda_sloan said:

Yes, they checked



Yes, confirmed it isn't the resistor or anything electrical

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Thank you for all the help. I bought my delica early last year and am still adjusting and adapting to having a vehicle that takes a bit more when things need to be tended to. Opted to just buy the whole assembly incase any other issues come up.

sk66 said:

Hyundai part #23124-42001 Damper Pulley (Harmonic Balancer/Crankshaft Pulley) fits the 4D56T and costs ~ 50% of the Mitsubishi part. OEM quality at Febest price...

Click to expand...

Anyone know of a good source to get one of these? Installed new belts and they just keep squealing even after tightening them up a second time. Can't really see if the rubber is coming apart but after reading everything it seems this is a common failure point so I'm just going to replace it. Second question, I don't think the tensioners are making noise but do most people just replace it all as a set? We are right at 100,000 miles and it's a daily driver.

Delica_Dad said:

Anyone know of a good source to get one of these? Installed new belts and they just keep squealing even after tightening them up a second time. Can't really see if the rubber is coming apart but after reading everything it seems this is a common failure point so I'm just going to replace it. Second question, I don't think the tensioners are making noise but do most people just replace it all as a set? We are right at 100,000 miles and it's a daily driver.

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If you didn't install the matched set of OEM belts, that's more likely the problem.

sk66 said:

Welcome sparekorea.com

If you didn't install the matched set of OEM belts, that's more likely the problem.

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I did install the matched set, I'll check them one more time. Thanks for the link-

Any domestic part numbers for tie rods (inner and ends)? epc data isn't giving me anything but genuine

Doesn't EPC always give out OEM numbers? But if you crossref that number, you might get lucky.

My notes have MB527650 as the tie rod ends which comes up at Rock Auto as:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mopar,MB527650,tie+rod+end,7428

This thread has a reference to a non-OEM for inners.




Also