Snorkel Install
- Thread starter Kellyn
- Start date
Existing airbox... it has a one way drain to let out any water that gets scooped in.
There is only one inlet. You remove the plastic part of the inlet and attach the flex hose in it's place.
Marmot
Active Member
Has anyone installed the other model of FTS snorkel (the flush mount version)? There appears to be three self-tapping screws included, and my only guess is that they are for securing the snorkel to the body beyond the center screw? Also, there are two rubber plugs, which by the pictures, I assume are lower drain plugs. Perhaps two of the three self-tapping screws could be installed through the two holes created for the drain plugs?
mmmm1989
Member
Im in the process of installing mine (traditional style-not flat) and have a question. It looks like it is supposed to be bolted on the bottom right side-about six inches from the big hole. I can't figure out how I would put the bolt in from behind and tighten it since it is on the inside of the panel (just behind wheel well). The bolt is supposed to come from the inside and screws into the embedded nut in the snorkel. I saw some examples online where it was accessable, but those had the sliding door on the right side of the van. Should I just ignore this bolt? The upper two brackets and snorkel hose should hold it. (I plan to go directly into the air cleaner and not use the long snake hose supplied. )
That bolt is a tough one but it's very important. I recommend drilling a larger hole than is required to slip the intake portion of the snorkel through the body. Most important is to make sure the hole in the second wall is large enough to sneak your hand through. You'll then go in from behind and tighten the nut from inside. Make sure to put a rubber grommet on the stud of the snorkel or else the nut will pull the body away from the snorkel as you tighten the nut. You want to sandwich some kind of rubber there to reduce vibration.
mmmm1989
Member
Thanks. Yes, the key was making the inside hole big enough to get my hand in. I made the outside hole about 3 inches and the inside one I had to enlarge to about 4.5 inches. I found the stud a little short for my rubber washer and fender washer etc. I got a longer one. I welded a new inlet on the air box and just capped the original one. Used a 2 3/8 silicone coolant hose to connect. 
bikerjosh
Well-Known Member
Maybe I am just dense or 4-5 hours of sleep is finally catching up with me, but I am in the middle of a FTS #7 snorkel. I’ve read a few posts about folks saying to remove some wiring or sensors in the air box area when you drill the body. Is this just a temp move so you don’t run the hole saw through something if you went too far, or is it a permanent Relo? Second is the area in question wire harness that runs through the large grommet or the two solenoids or whatever they are on the rear most wall of the air box area? Thanks 
bikerjosh
Well-Known Member
@sk66 when you said
“I then attached the brackets to the snorkel, removed the adhesive tape coverings and placed the snorkel against the body making sure the tape sticks well. Then unbolt the brackets leaving them in place to mark/drill.”
In my package, I got 4 self tapping screws and 4 bolts. I assumed the 4 bolts attach the bracket to the snorkel and the 3M tape attached the bracket to the van. Are you saying you used screws to attach brackets to Van? If not what are the self tapping screws for?
Thx
“I then attached the brackets to the snorkel, removed the adhesive tape coverings and placed the snorkel against the body making sure the tape sticks well. Then unbolt the brackets leaving them in place to mark/drill.”
In my package, I got 4 self tapping screws and 4 bolts. I assumed the 4 bolts attach the bracket to the snorkel and the 3M tape attached the bracket to the van. Are you saying you used screws to attach brackets to Van? If not what are the self tapping screws for?
Thx
Last edited:
yes, the screws attach the bracket to the van... tape is not enough; it more provides a water seal.
bikerjosh
Well-Known Member
Ok, seems like the self tapping screws should be longer.
Also curious how much of a gap if any should be between the snorkel and the body? Seems like more than I would have guessed. Even pushing the snorkel into the side it doesn’t seem to deflect much if anything.View attachment 3548
Also curious how much of a gap if any should be between the snorkel and the body? Seems like more than I would have guessed. Even pushing the snorkel into the side it doesn’t seem to deflect much if anything.View attachment 3548