Tutorial: EGR and Boost Gauge Install

[sk66]

Temps are in fahrenheit
Starting Idle: ~220-300, maybe lower on a cold morning
City Driving: ~400-900, usually the higher end is on acceleration up some of our steep Seattle city hills
Highway Driving Flat: ~650-1000 depending on hills, etc. at about 100-120 kph
Mountain Passes: ~1000-1200; When going over Stevens Pass, or Snoqualmie Pass I generally turn off the Overdrive and cruise at about 80 kph with my RPMs around 3000 and keeping an eye on the EGT and temperature gauges.

Curious what other people set as their limit on temp reading when mounted to the blanking plate?

I get similar temps. I'll let it go to 1300f/700c w/o concern unless I see the coolant temp climbing, or even 1400f/750c for very short periods on hard steep climbs.
Another concern is shutting down with the EGT's above 600f/300c (some suggest even lower/idle limits). It can shorten the life of (kill) the turbo if it is heat soaked and cokes the oil in it.

Should note that these are pre-turbo temps (probe in lower EGR blanking plate).

 

[DrMorris]

I have been going shithouse lately between posting things and doing things to the Delica. This thread is for my latest install. I have wanted to turn the boost up for a while now, but I refused to do so without proper engine health monitoring. Therefore, I required a proper EGT and Boost gauge. I did not, however, want two seperate aftermarket gauges present on or around the dash. I like the factory stuff and little else. So my search began. I found a cool line of products made by a company called PLX Devices. They have been producing high quality wideband monitoring products for a long time. I actually have an old LM300 digital wideband in my Lexus IS300 2jzGTE swap. Anyway, here is what I bought.

PLX Devices Multigauge
http://www.plxdevices.com/Automotive-Gauges-and-Sensors-s/108.htm


Now, this setup is centered on a touchscreen gauge that you can buy. The idea here is to buy whatever sensor modules you want, string them all together, and broadcast their data to one gauge. Cool right? It gets cooler. They recently released a bluetooth application/dongle to allow streaming of sensor data to a freakin android or iphone. EPIC. This install uses the latter combination. Here we go!

Step One. Remove the damn panel again.


Step Two. Locate your EGT Sensor Probe install location.... Do you have an EGR Bypass?!?! BOOM!


Step Three. Remove your EGR Bypass plate and start drilling. It tells you what size bit to use.




Step Four. Tap that ass


Step Five. Install EGT Probe as far as you can into the plate.



Step Six. Install the plate and sensor probe back on the manifold.


Step Seven. Locate Power and Ground for your Sensor Modules. I choose the 12V Ignition-Switched Solenoid on the back of the firewall for power. The sensor modules collectively draw under 5 amps so stealing power from here shouldn't be a problem. If you had a Wideband Module I would NOT recommend using this power source. Find a stronger power source as wideband sensors suck up some juice. For the ground I made a ring terminal connector directly to the negative terminal



Step Eight. Did you buy the Boost Sensor Module? Obtain a vacuum tee and tap into the feed running into the top of the injection pump. This comes directly from the turbocharger compressor housing.


Step Nine. Run the vacuum, EGT Probe wires through the small opening near the back of the firewall entering the battery well. Zip tie everything onto the main harness that runs into there.

Step Ten. PROFIT. This is a screen shot from my android phone showing actual sensor data during driving! Freaking sweet.

I tried tapping into the rubber hose that went into the egr for my boost gauge but I'm not getting a reading. Will that line not work? I'm a little wary of cutting the line to the injection pump.

 

[Kellyn]

I tried tapping into the rubber hose that went into the egr for my boost gauge but I'm not getting a reading. Will that line not work? I'm a little wary of cutting the line to the injection pump.

There will not be any adverse affects by teeing into the injection pump.

 

[Kellyn]

I personally limit my acceleration to 1200F. This is with the probe in the lower EGR plate as well.

 

[DrMorris]

There will not be any adverse affects by teeing into the injection pump.

.Did it and it's working pretty good. Getting 5 or 6 psi. Haven't gone on the freeway yet.

 

[natematos]

To those that have installed gauges, can you describe or take a photo of where you tapped in for power? I cannot for the life of me find accessory power in this thing that’s not directly coming from the fuse box.

 

[DrMorris]

We spliced everything into the stereo

 

[Kellyn]

Here is an install that I did for Cole Wilson, the recent owner of my Green Low Roof. He sent me a digital flush mount gauge but I couldn't find anywhere to put it that would look good. Eventually I decided on trying the clock location but found that the gauge was too small for the hole and a trim ring would be needed so I searched the shop trash and found a piece of seat trim plastic with which to make a bezel. It came out great in my opinion. For this install I wired the gauge to the clock harness. The gauge powers up on Acc as opposed to Ign but at least it's properly fused.

 

[natematos]

Wow that's a great install! I didn't want mine to be super prominent and couldn't find a pod or location where it would blend in. So I decided to use the ash tray area. Right now it's just velcro'd in, but I'll be giving it a little more polish in the next few weeks.

 

[Kellyn]

That works! I saw someone utilize one of the OEM gauges ( I think altimeter) and I'm going to do that next..

 

[Kyre]

So I deleted my EGR yesterday and have the PLX gauge to install in the original outside/inside temp area in the original pod.

1. I think I tapped the wrong blanking plate. I noticed people put them in both areas, but have realized I probably should have put the probe in the lower plate, not the upper. I could make a new upper plate and tap the lower (which would suck to have to do all that work over but I will if that's the right area). @Haileybut looks like you put the probe in the same blanking plate as I did, what's your temp experience? Did you leave in the upper plate?

2. Where can I get power? I know other people have asked but I'm still not entirely sure within the engine bay, can someone show some detailed photos of where they spliced for power and ground inside the engine bay (where the PLX modules will live). @Tom Boyd I see your photo above but am not entirely sure what you meant by connecting power and ground together, then ground directly to the battery. I wish the original photos from @Kellyn worked I'm sure they have some crucial visual info!

 

[sk66]

The upper plate is on the inlet... so you're measuring inlet air temp. I took power from the cigarette lighter.

 

[Kyre]

The upper plate is on the inlet... so you're measuring inlet air temp. I took power from the cigarette lighter.

And the inlet is much cooler right? If that’s the case I have to make a new plate and tap the lower.

I’m looking for an easy power source in the engine bay since the PLX modules will live there and the power comes from those modules and not the gauge itself. I could always just run wires back to the dash.

I was looking at the repair manual and it looks like ignition power comes from black/white wire and ground is solid black.

 

[Haileybut]

Yup, I did the same thing. My intake temps where 200 degrees. I modified the plate and got it to fit the exhaust side. I think I used he other plate as a template. Carefully open the holes and it will seal.

I blame it on lack of sleep.

 

[sk66]

And the inlet is much cooler right? If that’s the case I have to make a new plate and tap the lower.

I’m looking for an easy power source in the engine bay since the PLX modules will live there and the power comes from those modules and not the gauge itself. I could always just run wires back to the dash.

I was looking at the repair manual and it looks like ignition power comes from black/white wire and ground is solid black.

Yes, intake will be much cooler.

You're looking for 12v that's only on when the engine is running? The only thing I can think of offhand is the power to the IP pump shut down solenoid for the diesels.

 

[Kyre]

Yes, intake will be much cooler.

You're looking for 12v that's only on when the engine is running? The only thing I can think of offhand is the power to the IP pump shut down solenoid for the diesels.

Yeah only when the engine is running or Acc.

I think I’m going to mount the modules under the drivers seat which will allow me to run a wire for power back to the fuse box and add a fuse tap to the cigarette lighter.

 

[Kellyn]

I recommend taking power from one of the vacuum solenoids on the firewall near the fuel filter. They power up on ignition. Tap into this feed and run it to a relay that is fed power from the battery. You can then power a small bus bar with that relay. I typically would recommend making a small install near the battery if you have one battery or under the small access cover behind the drivers seat.

K

 

[rdelica]

@Jessey Dearing what mounting option did you use when ordering the gauge?

 

[Jessey Dearing]

@rdelica Here are my order details: Digital EGT Gauge (Round) with TC-KEGTS Probe*** LED Color Option: Green Mounting Type Option: 1/8 NPT Longer Cable Option: 4 Meter Cable

I went with the long cable because I knew I was going to have to run it from the EGT tap around the engine to the front of the car and came up through a rubber gasket hole that I found near the gas/brake pedals (I didn't want to drill a new hole into the van and found a hole back there) and then up behind the radio to the dash board. I think I had a little extra cable that is currently behind the glove box. I ran power through a fuse tap (into the ignition fuse?) straight from the fuse box which has worked fine, just can't have the fuse box cover on it, which I've never noticed. I imagine you could drill through the firewall and have a much more direct route from the tap to your mounting area and not need the super long cord. You could also run a string and see how much you need before ordering.

I have photos of how I mounted it within the pod. Also, I attached some of the photos from @Kellyn's post that no longer show up, his post and video were super useful in the process (having not done this before). Not sure why forums always end up hiding photos, but hopefully these show up. Also, this is a great post on how to remove driver's side seat / floorpan that I believe Kellyn referenced in his post: http://delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=99&t=2125&p=14203&hilit=floorpan#p14203

 

[Kyre]

I also just completed installing my PLX gauge. I removed the inside/outside temp, reused the plastic holder for that gauge and made a wood spacer so it's solid in the pod. Since it's a touch screen I didn't want the gauge flexing when pushed.

I have the EGT and Boost installed and went on a long road trip this weekend with multiple long climbs. It's great to know when to back down on the pedal to maintain my speed at a lower temp.

The boost is nice to have to know if it ever stops producing optimal boost or if I ever want to tweak. Max boost I've had so far is 10psi.