D4BF/ 4D56 Pilot Bearing

[jonsvibe]

Hey all. Emergency here. I was swapping out my clutch and flywheel on my 4D56 with a D4BF kit. The D4BF flywheel has a larger pilot bearing which I didn’t realize until everything was pulled. Does anyone have a part number for a replacement that would be compatible with the larger OD of the D4BF flywheel and smaller ID of the 4D56 input shaft?

Cheers

 

[tonkatruck]

Measure the size in your new flywheel and the old one give a bearing supplier a call they normally have stock on the shelf most bearings are stock sizes

 

[Kaz Maynard]

Hey all. Emergency here. I was swapping out my clutch and flywheel on my 4D56 with a D4BF kit. The D4BF flywheel has a larger pilot bearing which I didn’t realize until everything was pulled. Does anyone have a part number for a replacement that would be compatible with the larger OD of the D4BF flywheel and smaller ID of the 4D56 input shaft?

Cheers

NTN 6203-LLU/15-C3 (6203-15.2RS),Deep groove ball bearing, sealed, 15x40x12 mm | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NTN 6203-LLU/15-C3 (6203-15.2RS),Deep groove ball bearing, sealed, 15x40x12 mm at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

6203-15

If it is similar to my hyundai flywheel and your manual L300 is similar to mine this is what I used to mount a d4b flyweel to my 4d56 and mate it to my L300 gearbox.

Hope that helps.
Kaz

 

[Growlerbearnz]

Interesting. What year is your gearbox? I have the stock D4BF pilot bearing and it fit my '96 gearbox.

...at least, I think it did. Well thanks, now I'm paranoid and have to pull the gearbox to double check.

 

[jonsvibe]

Interesting. What year is your gearbox? I have the stock D4BF pilot bearing and it fit my '96 gearbox.

...at least, I think it did. Well thanks, now I'm paranoid and have to pull the gearbox to double check.

Assuming it was never swapped… so built 08/1992. The ID on my original pilot bearing is 15mm and when checking the hyundai, the bearing ID on it seemed to be 17mm. Perhaps the input shaft is larger on later model transmissions?

 

[jonsvibe]

6203-15

If it is similar to my hyundai flywheel and your manual L300 is similar to mine this is what I used to mount a d4b flyweel to my 4d56 and mate it to my L300 gearbox.

Hope that helps.
Kaz

Amazing thank you, this is exactly what I need! I found a couple other part numbers for compatible bearings but wouldn’t be able to get any on short notice.

I ended up getting a shop to resurface and mount a new ring gear on my old flywheel but will order this bearing in case I need to swap down the road. Thanks again!

 

[jonsvibe]

hey, popping back on here as I’m running into more clutch issues. Major squeaking only when the engine is off and letting off the clutch. I rebuilt the slave cylinder with the job as well and did grease seal along with other contact points. Could it be clutch itself?

I’m attaching the link to a video I posted on reddit below
Delica Clutch Squeak

 

[tonkatruck]

Did you put any copper grease on the shaft.. could be the slave cylinder o rings did you put any vasaline or put some grease on your fingers and coat the o rings

 

[jonsvibe]

Hey all, new issues.
Greased the Clutch Arm pivot, replaced the Slave cylinder, and re-bled the system. Been great without squeaks.

However, recently I’ve been running with a stiff clutch. It’s really stiff on the last inch or so. Starting cold and driving for the first 20 minutes, the clutch feels great but after driving a bit, my pedal becomes much stiffer. I’ve been spraying silicone grease onto my Clutch Master pushrod to no avail and am unsure what to check next other than pull the trans again. If not the hydraulic system, I believe I’m left with the throwout bearing or presure plate? Any thoughts?

 

[Growlerbearnz]

Check the clutch pedal free play. When the pedal is at rest, the pushrod should not be touching the master cylinder piston.

Adjust the free play using the locknuts on the pushrod.


Reason: When the master cylinder piston returns to its rest position, it uncovers a tiny hole in the cylinder wall that relieves any residual pressure. If the piston can't return all the way (because the pushrod is holding it in) then the pressure slowly builds up.

 

[jonsvibe]

Check the clutch pedal free play. When the pedal is at rest, the pushrod should not be touching the master cylinder piston.

Adjust the free play using the locknuts on the pushrod.

View attachment 21442
Reason: When the master cylinder piston returns to its rest position, it uncovers a tiny hole in the cylinder wall that relieves any residual pressure. If the piston can't return all the way (because the pushrod is holding it in) then the pressure slowly builds up.

Right on, I appreciate it. I re adjusted the turnover spring and finagled with the pushrod. Seems to be acting better. I suppose the last question I have is the pedal still encounters heavier resistance on the last 0.5-1 inch of travel. If I press harder I can get it to go the floor. I’m going to measure the distance to floorboard to make sure it’s in spec but is it common for these clutches to not go all the way to the floor? Provided I’m not grinding gears of course… Gonna test it now. Thanks again

 

[jonsvibe]

Ok, is there any other way that the master cylinder would not be venting pressure? I’m still getting a soft pedal in the morning and hard (last inch) in the afternoon. I’m wondering if from here it’s something internal to the clutch?

 

[sk66]

Ok, is there any other way that the master cylinder would not be venting pressure?

I get what you are asking, but no. The clutch (and brake) are closed systems with no venting/recirculation (in normal use). The only reason there is a reservoir of fluid is to accommodate wear (and to a lesser degree, protect against small leaks).

If the clutch is releasing fully before reaching bottom, then I wouldn't worry much about the last bit of travel. And I would think it should release well before that (although I've never driven a manual Delica).