Engine Block Heater

sk66 said:
What you want is an EGT gauge... anything near/above 1400f/760c is going to kill a turbo in a hurry
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yes! that's what I have planned to install. coming soon. Mechanic told me he can install the EGT gauge on top of the steering wheel tower,
 
Maxismolkin said:
My face tells it all....
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Yeah, I would be pretty white knuckled too... especially if there was any cross winds/turbulence.
TBH, high RPM going downhill shouldn't be an issue as long as you're not pushing redline, but holding more than ~ 3000rpm under heavy load going uphill is asking for trouble (especially w/o an EGT gauge).
 
Jumbo_shrimp said:
@ silverstate I just cleaned really well with degreaser then wiped down with alcohol rag. Did when my oil pan was warm not hot or cold. Used the sealant around the edge and let cure for I think 24 hours as per instructions.
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Hey y'all jumping back to this thread as it pertains to a current situation I'm in. My Delica had some glow plug issues due to the aftermarket manual bypass that was installed. I got stuck out in West Texas and had to leave it there prior to the holidays. I plan on replacing the plugs but also wanted to install a 250 W wolverine pad I purchased. Any potential issue with installing it onto a cold oil pan? Also, could I try to fire it up after less than 24 cure time? How long do you normally keep it running for?
Thanks!
 
Howdy all. Sorry to resurrect this old discussion but I'm new to the Delica world and was curious if folks prefer the Kat's 40mm style block heater or the adhesive type. The adhesive type looks pretty easy to install. Thanks in advance.
 
davidjbarnes said:
Howdy all. Sorry to resurrect this old discussion but I'm new to the Delica world and was curious if folks prefer the Kat's 40mm style block heater or the adhesive type. The adhesive type looks pretty easy to install. Thanks in advance.
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A heater element directly in the coolant (Kats type) is going to be more effective/efficient... my preference is to avoid temps cold enough to require a block heater.
 
Noogie said:
Has anyone added and engine block heater to their diesel? Winter is coming... I’m looking to add one but would appreciate a steer in the right direction if anyone out there has done it already.
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I am in CO and don’t have a garage/drive way for an extension cord option. Therefore I am plumbing an Espar Hydronic S3 into the coolant line. It runs off the auxiliary battery and a line off the fuel tank.
 
I installed a Katz block heater into the rear frost plug hole of my new D4BF before doing the engine install so it was a very convenient install. I’ve already started using it because it makes startups so much easier even in mildly cool fall weather. I have it connected to a timer that turns it on about an hour before I leave for work. I think it will really help with the wear and tear of cold startups on the engine as well as the starter motor. Also there is almost none of the typical smoke I see on a cold startup.
I also plan on eventually installing an auxiliary espar hydronic diesel heater which will double as a cabin heater once I figure out how to power the rear blower with both the starter battery and auxiliary battery. Hmmmm...
 
ccmickelson said:
I installed a Katz block heater into the rear frost plug hole of my new D4BF before doing the engine install so it was a very convenient install. I’ve already started using it because it makes startups so much easier even in mildly cool fall weather. I have it connected to a timer that turns it on about an hour before I leave for work. I think it will really help with the wear and tear of cold startups on the engine as well as the starter motor. Also there is almost none of the typical smoke I see on a cold startup.
I also plan on eventually installing an auxiliary espar hydronic diesel heater which will double as a cabin heater once I figure out how to power the rear blower with both the starter battery and auxiliary battery. Hmmmm...
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I use https://esparparts.com/techsupport/pdfs/Blower Control Module/BCM 03-2012.pdf
I have it wired to the rear blower, it comes on automatically once the coolant heats up from the diesel heater. It has its own lead from the battery, I have it running off a aux battery.
 
JDro said:
I am in CO and don’t have a garage/drive way for an extension cord option. Therefore I am plumbing an Espar Hydronic S3 into the coolant line. It runs off the auxiliary battery and a line off the fuel tank.
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That's a pretty serious piece of equipment. We're Colorado folks too and have just gotten used to taken the generator with us and using it to power blocks and heaters and such. I am going to look into this though. Very nice suggestion!!
 
davidjbarnes said:
Is the freeze port easily accessible? Thank you!
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For easier access I’d think you’d need to remove the starter motor and maybe the fuel filter. Levering the frost plug out might be the most difficult part of the job. Don’t knock it into the engine water jacket like I did (I was fortunately able to extract it with a pair of needle nose pliers.)
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Just got my adhesive style block heater and am going to install it this weekend. Before I move ahead I wanted to confirm placement. The heater goes on the bottom side of the oil pan which in my driver side photo below is circled in yellow, not red (pardon the ignorance). Correct?

I'll also be doing my first oil change!

Thanks in advance!

2020-02-08 10.34.59-1.jpg
 
Yellow is the engine oil pan, red is the transmission oil pan. Neither will warm up the coolant significantly. Warming the oil will help the engine turn over at full starter speed, and reduce wear on startup, but I wouldn't expect it to fire any easier if it's already cranking fast enough. A block heater like ccmickelson's warms the cylinders and head via the coolant, which does help it fire up. Ideally there'd be both heaters, as well as a battery heater. Warming the trans should make it shift better for the first few minutes until it warms up itself, but I doubt many would bother doing that.

In WW2, aircraft flying in the dead of winter (Eastern Front, mostly) often had their engine oil drained and kept indoors between missions. A T-34 tank engine, a 38.8-liter 500hp V12 diesel, designed in the 1930's and mostly built with extreme haste under appalling conditions, apparently started down to -30C or so with the help of kerosene in the fuel, gasoline in the oil, ether, glowplugs, and compressed air. Below that, they would light a tray of (diesel?) fuel on fire under the engine; two hours later, the soot-covered tank could be started.
 
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