Engine start problem right after fuel filter replacement.

NikTheGreek

NikTheGreek

New Member
Last week I replaced the fuel filter.

As usual, I removed the fuel filter housing by unscrewing the two 12mm bolts and worked on the bench.
I reinstalled the housing in the engine bay and my engine started without any problem.
A few hours later when I tried to restart the engine it took 2-3 cranks to start(this was the first time ever that it didn't start at the first crank)
Since then I still facing the same problem, sometimes starts right away, and sometimes takes a few cranks to start.

I replaced all fuel hoses connected from - to fuel filter and fuel pump with no luck.
I replaced the fuel filter housing with a brand new one and refitted once again the water trap sensor to verify that is OK ... but .... the problem remains.
I guess that I've double-tested everything I could with no luck.

Could you please tell me what else can I do in order to solve this?
Thank you in advance.
 
Perhaps there's air in the fuel lines/system.


this thread might be helpful:

Bleeding the fuel lines

If you've changed the fuel filter or worked on the injection pump or injectors you'll likely need to bleed the air out of the fuel lines. If you changed the fuel filter: Wrap a rag around the fuel filter- this will be messy. Loosen the bleed port bolt (10mm), press on the primer pump until fuel...
delicaforum.com delicaforum.com
 
If the delayed start occurs after sitting for a while and it starts better/quicker when it has set for less time; then I would suspect an air leak is allowing fuel to drain backwards creating an air gap. The only thing you haven't checked seems to be the primer pump; those do go bad. But I would expect the van would start and then stall after draining the filter.

You could try starting/running the engine from a fuel can (IP inlet hose into can). That would at least isolate the issue to being before the IP inlet or after.

Another possibility is that the new filter sent a bunch of loose fibers and blocked the IP inlet/outlet filters (it seems all vans have one at the outlet, some also at the inlet). But I would expect more pronounced issue other than just extending start time... maybe it's just a partial obstruction.
 
sk66 said:
If the delayed start occurs after sitting for a while and it starts better/quicker when it has set for less time; then I would suspect an air leak is allowing fuel to drain backwards creating an air gap.
Click to expand...

In some cases (rarely) starts without problem even when sitting all night .. but in some other cases starts with a problem even for small stops.

sk66 said:
The only thing you haven't checked seems to be the primer pump; those do go bad. But I would expect the van would start and then stall after draining the filter.
Click to expand...

Actually, I did replace the primer pump with a new one, and as you mention some times it slightly stalls ( reduces rpm ) in traffic lights.
The only part that is not brand new is the water trap.

sk66 said:
Another possibility is that the new filter sent a bunch of loose fibers and blocked the IP inlet/outlet filters (it seems all vans have one at the outlet, some also at the inlet). But I would expect more pronounced issue other than just extending start time... maybe it's just a partial obstruction.
Click to expand...

Could you please point where this filter is placed and how can be cleaned?

Thank you.
 
NikTheGreek said:
Could you please point where this filter is placed and how can be cleaned?
Click to expand...
The outlet filter screen is internal to the outlet banjo bolt. The inlet filter screen (if equipped) in under the inlet banjo bolt. They can generally be cleaned by spraying cleaner through them backwards.
 
OK.... problem solved.

Surprisingly it was much easier repair than I could think of but at the same time, it was so difficult to accept that this tiny part could cost me so much time and effort.
Anyway ... the problem was the small rubber sealant ring inside the fuel filter water trap. This one is sitting at the plastic bolt used to drain the water.
Watertrap.jpg


Thank you.
 
NikTheGreek said:
OK.... problem solved.

Surprisingly it was much easier repair than I could think of but at the same time, it was so difficult to accept that this tiny part could cost me so much time and effort.
Anyway ... the problem was the small rubber sealant ring inside the fuel filter water trap. This one is sitting at the plastic bolt used to drain the water.
Watertrap.jpg


Thank you.
Click to expand...
Hey, is there a replaceable gasket / O ring in that?
My water sensor was dripping after a filter change, not much, but enough to cause a problem, idle stall, slow start, etc.
Had to use a piece of fuel hose to block it.
I haven't removed it to take it apart, but I've got to either do that or replace the sensor.
Kinda don't want to damage it further by trying to open it up, not sure it was made to come apart.
 
Macleod said:
Hey, is there a replaceable gasket / O ring in that?
My water sensor was dripping after a filter change, not much, but enough to cause a problem, idle stall, slow start, etc.
Had to use a piece of fuel hose to block it.
I haven't removed it to take it apart, but I've got to either do that or replace the sensor.
Kinda don't want to damage it further by trying to open it up, not sure it was made to come apart.
Click to expand...
You mean in the butterfly drain valve? IDT it is serviceable.
 
Macleod said:
Hey, is there a replaceable gasket / O ring in that?
My water sensor was dripping after a filter change, not much, but enough to cause a problem, idle stall, slow start, etc.
Click to expand...
From memory if you unscrew the drain valve all the way you'll find an O-ring on the valve. There's also the seal between the sensor and the filter body. There's no reason to take it apart any more than that, those are the only places it can leak from. Unless it's been overtightened and has cracked, but you'll need to remove it to check for that anyway.

Before pulling it apart I'd check that it really is the sensor that's leaking, not something higher up. Maybe tie/tape a paper towel around the middle of the fuel filter, leave it for a day or two, and check that it's still dry.
 
Growlerbearnz said:
From memory if you unscrew the drain valve all the way you'll find an O-ring on the valve. There's also the seal between the sensor and the filter body. There's no reason to take it apart any more than that, those are the only places it can leak from. Unless it's been overtightened and has cracked, but you'll need to remove it to check for that anyway.

Before pulling it apart I'd check that it really is the sensor that's leaking, not something higher up. Maybe tie/tape a paper towel around the middle of the fuel filter, leave it for a day or two, and check that it's still dry.
Click to expand...
i am having that exact problem right now. the water purging wingnug/plunger thing is leaking. when you look at the parts schematic for it it is listed as a seperate part. Now who sells that part ???

part number is MB248214
 
Growlerbearnz said:
From memory if you unscrew the drain valve all the way you'll find an O-ring on the valve.
Click to expand...
The O-ring is replaceable with another cheap ( less than 10 cents ) general-purpose O-ring that is at the same dimensions.
That is what I did in my case and is still working fine.
 
well today was fix everything fuel pump/filter body assembly forward final day.

New OEM Lift pump fuel filter assembly MB554592N (ordered from parts dept of local Mitsubishi dealer)
New Filter Napa gold filter 3128
New Sensor Napa 2-95001 (it has a different connector but i cut off the old one and replaced the new one with the factory connector) it is slightly different from the original but it is the part that superseded the old one. The float is slightly different.
New fuel lines for fuel into lift pump/filter housing. Sourced at Napa
Bleed the lines to and post pump
Bleed the pump itself
Bleed the hard lines in the FI pump
Cleaned the FI injectors and bleed them too...

when done she fired and ran like a champ and actually attained a new top speed on the flats 77mph with no wind on the flats. The real test will be the cold temp start tomorrow...

Thanks for those people who answered questions and provided links...

Coop
 
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