Limited Slip Differential (OEM)

ccmickelson

Well-Known Member
Hello! What sayeth the collective on the subject of converting the standard open diff to a limited slip diff on my L300 Starwagon. I have considered trying to source a good, used unit to just swap out, but in the event I can't find one, I am wondering about the possibility of doing a conversion and how complicated it might be. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Also wondering if an L400 rear diff is interchangeable with the L300. Thanks.
 
(Edited for the FAQ: this post now includes the relevant details from the whole thread.)

Limited Slip Differentials were fitted as standard to Chamonix and post-1991 Super Exceed. They might also be fitted to Jasper as standard. Was an option on all trim levels, so you might be lucky.

The factory LSD is a 2-way clutch type with steel plates (rather than friction material), very similar to the Toyota Hilux/Tacoma LSD.

They never fully lock (it's a clutch type, after all), but if they're in good condition with all the clearances in spec they work adequately. Just enough power will lock them up enough to get the van moving, too much power will overcome the clutch friction and allow one wheel to spin. For best results you want to rebuild them and shim the clutch packs so they're at the tight end of the allowable range.

Like the Toyota LSD they can get lazy when they wear. Rebuilding them is relatively easy, and you can make shims that go between the two spring plates to return them to factory clearance.

If LSD was fitted at the factory you'll have an orange sticker on the driver's door, like this:

IMG_20120410_134551.jpg


In English:
LSD_English.jpg


(Though the Japanese version says "don't idle" rather than "don't turn", meaning "don't let one wheel turn repeatedly while the other wheel is stationary" because it'll wear out the friction plates really quickly.)

There might also be a LSD filler plug:
IMG_20120410_155813.jpg



If you're still not sure, you can test it mechanically. Lift the rear axle off the ground, handbrake off, and try to turn one wheel forwards. If the other wheel turns forwards then you have an LSD. If the other wheel turns backwards then you have a regular open diff (or an LSD that's completely worn out).

Fluids and quantities are in the FAQ, but LSX-90 is a bit old fashioned. Modern good quality diff oils are multigrade and LSD compatible (I'd even say to avoid diff oils that aren't LSD compatible, because they're probably inferior quality.) You can use LSD oil in an open or front diff.

I recommend Redline 75W90 GL-5 in both diffs. It's synthetic and really good quality (My rear diff ran at 70C while towing with decent quality mineral oil, but dropped to 55C with Redline synthetic. Which seems ridiculous.)
Whatever oil you choose, make sure it's GL-5, LSD compatible, and says it's suitable as an SAE80 or SAE90 replacement.

Installing an LSD
The easiest and safest way to install an LSD is to swap out the whole rear axle.
AXle.jpg

Second easiest is to swap over the complete differential carrier (LSD on left, open on right):
LSDcarrier.jpg

Swapping out the whole carrier/gears/diff assembly means you don't disturb the critical alignment between the ring gear and pinion. You will, however, need to re-shim the axles at the brake end to set the end float as per the workshop manual.

The trickiest way is to replace only the differential centre. LSD and open diffs use the same carrier, ring and pinion, and bearings so it should be a straight swap, but you need to set the backlash and axle end play correctly. In general if you're swapping the diff centre you don't have to worry about setting the pinion depth, just measure the backlash before you pull your diff apart, and maintain that measurement when you adjust your new diff. That said, this one's best left to a differential/axle shop, but make sure they have a copy of the workshop manual and follow the specifications: L300 backlash settings are much tighter than your average truck axle.
 
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Assuming your exisiting axle is in good condition, you should only need MB160842, the LSD centre. It was used in other vehicles too, cross reference here at partsfan.com.
You should probably order a set of 10x MB092221 ring gear bolts: they're reusable, but they're cheap and it's safest to replace them.
You'll also want MB185319 rear axle shim set, for setting the axle endplay.

Backlash is the play between the ring gear and pinion, measured at the circumference of the ring gear teeth. Here's a basic video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ouq67Fyt5K8
A new ring gear and pinion are set to the factory backlash settings, but once they break in they're mated to each other and whatever backlash they settle at must be maintained. Changing the backlash changes the way they mesh, forcing them to break in all over again, and that rarely ends well.

Working on a differential isn't as easy as it looks, and the consequences of getting it wrong can be very expensive and exciting. The ring gear bolts need to be clean, dry, and degreased, installed in clean, dry, and degreased ring gear holes that have been chased to smooth out the threads (M10x1.25 thread). The bolts need to be installed with stud locker, and installed quickly, in the right order, and torqued accurately before the stud locker sets. Setting the preload on the diff bearings is also a bit of an art- the factory workshop manual covers how to do it, but without the factory tools you're relying on experience to set them appropriately.

Definitely try to find a complete LSD "pumpkin" or even an entire axle, it's far easier and less risky (and should be *waaay* cheaper).
If you decide to buy a new LSD centre, consider having it set up by a diff specialist (in this case consider buying a new ring gear and pinion at the same time- if you're having a pro do the work you might as well).
If you do have the diff set up by a specialist, take along the factory workshop manual and make sure they do it to Mitsubishi specifications- American trucks have sloppy tolerances and waaay more backlash than a Delica diff. And don't let them forget to grease the pinion oil seal.
 
Thank you again for all of this invaluable, informative beta. Whether I swap or convert I’m gonna get this going. Got a lot of winter driving coming up.
 
This...
Some things are just not worth learning the hard way...

Yes, that is probably sage advice. Have you done this conversion?

Oh yes. I've turned one diff to glitter because I forgot the backlash measurement and just guessed. Not pretty.

Where should I be looking for a pumpkin or complete axle. How is the pumpkin removed from the axle assembly? It looks like it's all one piece.

Is this the "pumpkin"?
 

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Yes, that's the differential carrier assembly. Also known as the pumpkin. Best thing to do is to get that as an assembly.
 
Not on a Delica... mine came w/ LSD.

Ok. So you've done this procedure on another vehicle, then? Was it a conversion or swap? Was it successful?

Yes, that's the differential carrier assembly. Also known as the pumpkin. Best thing to do is to get that as an assembly.

Ok, great. Any advice as to the best place to search for this component would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Looking around...it seems the many rear differential housings are designed as a separate, housed unit that can be detached from the axles and therefore the pumpkin is composed of the rear drive unit as well it’s housing. With the Delica the housing extends to the axles so effectively the pumpkin is just the drive unit “guts” by itself with the input flange that connects to the driveshaft. I know I’m stating the obvious here. Just trying to get my brain around it. It seems my Ford Ranger is also part of a complete axle assembly with the driven unit insert, if that is stated correctly.
 
Yes, that's the differential carrier assembly. Also known as the pumpkin.
See, this is what happens when I try to speak American. ;-) Differential carrier assembly- the big cast iron lump that holds all the differential bits together, able to be swapped into another axle as one piece without disturbing the differential alignment at all. As you've found, on many larger axles the carrier housing also forms part of the axle, with the axle tubes bolted to it (kind of pumpkin shaped). Calling it a Differential Carrier is far more accurate.
 
What kind of LSD is the L300 OEM optional LSD; a clutch type, viscous, helical, or other?
if clutch type, is it 1 way, 1.5 or 2.0...is it any good? Does it fully lock?
 
2-way clutch type with steel plates (rather than friction material), very similar to the Toyota Hilux/Tacoma LSD.

They never fully lock (it's a clutch type, after all), but if they're in good condition with all the clearances in spec they work adequately. Just enough power will lock them up enough to get the van moving, too much power will overcome the clutch friction and allow one wheel to spin. For best results you want to shim the clutch packs so they're at the tight end of the allowable range.

Like the Toyota LSD they can get lazy when they wear. Rebuilding them is relatively easy, and you can make shims that go between the two spring plates to return them to factory clearance.
 
Thanks, much appreciated.
i have 1991 exceed, feels like open diff
What models did it come in? was it an option, so only some had it?
i think i need to buy new with the link above, are there any other decent aftermarket alternatives?
thanks again!
 
LSD was an option on all models, but I think it was standard on Chamonix, Jasper, and Super Exceed. Models with LSD had an orange sticker on the driver's door, and a drain bung with "use specified LSD oil only" on it. The definitive test is to jack both wheels off the ground, put the transmission in park (or in gear for a manual) and turn one wheel. if the other wheel turns the same direction, you have LSD. If it turns backwards, you have an open diff (or an extremely broken LSD).

IMG_20120410_134551.pngIMG_20120410_143441.png

The rear diff on an L300 is strangely small, so aftermarket alternatives are rare. Some early Pajeros had the same size diff, which might help you find something.
 
I have that drain plug on mine but it was painted over what looked to be intentionally. My guess is that whoever worked on the van before my owning dropped or stripped the original bolt and used that one in its place covering up the LSD part. When I saw that while doing a fluid swap I had to go out and buy LSD fluid just in case. I couldn't be too sure. I just got a 3 ton jack and will lift that rear end up to test whats actually on there.
 
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