Automatic transmission won’t stay in 4th gear

My 1992 delica L300 will not stay in 4th gear while highway driving unless I am going down hill. Van will shift to 4th but immediately start slowing down or will down shift to third when i give it gas. This is at speeds from 70-100 kph.
 
My 1992 delica L300 will not stay in 4th gear while highway driving unless I am going down hill. Van will shift to 4th but immediately start slowing down or will down shift to third when i give it gas. This is at speeds from 70-100 kph.
What you're describing doesn't really sound wrong... not holding speed in 4th and then downshifting w/ throttle is normal with any type of long or steep grade. Especially if it's loaded up.
Mine won't kick down automatically unless the speed is around 50mph/80kmh... I think that's normal because any higher will result in very high RPM.

If anything this sounds like a power/air/fuel type issue and not transmission...
 
What you're describing doesn't really sound wrong... not holding speed in 4th and then downshifting w/ throttle is normal with any type of long or steep grade. Especially if it's loaded up.
Mine won't kick down automatically unless the speed is around 50mph/80kmh... I think that's normal because any higher will result in very high RPM.

If anything this sounds like a power/air/fuel type issue and not transmission...

Thanks for the reply. The problem occurs on flat highways. I can never stay in 4th unless going down hill at a noticble grade. On any flat ground t will down shift to 3rd or slow down. So I’m constantly accelerating in 3rd and slowing down in 4th.
 
Check your kickdown cable adjustment: http://delicaforum.com/index.php?th...on-kickdown-or-throttle-cable-adjustment.762/

...and, if that's not it try replacing the overdrive solenoid- it may be weak or internally clogged. (http://www.delica.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=95&t=17802)
Thanks a lot Growlerbearnz! I checked the kickback cable and it seems to be at the proper settings but I loosened it a tad anyways.

I am curious about the solonoid. If it is damaged or not functioning would it still be able to shift to 4th like it so doing?

Thanks again
 
What's the engine RPM doing as it slows down in 4th? If the RPM is holding then the transmission is probably slipping. If the fluid level is good then it might be the pump/pickup/filter/torque converter. But if the RPM is holding it probably shouldn't kick down either... at least not until it drops below about 50mph.
If it is damaged or not functioning would it still be able to shift to 4th like it so doing?
It either doesn't shift into 4th, or it shifts out of 4th when it shouldn't... doesn't sound like your issue to me.
 
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What's the engine RPM doing as it slows down in 4th? If the RPM is holding then the transmission is probably slipping. If the fluid level is good then it might be the pump/pickup/filter/torque converter. But if the RPM is holding it probably shouldn't kick down either... at least not until it drops below about 50mph.

It either doesn't shift into 4th, or it shifts out of 4th when it shouldn't... doesn't sound like your issue to me.
Engine rpms drop with the speed. Fluid level looks good.
 
I am curious about the solonoid. If it is damaged or not functioning would it still be able to shift to 4th like it so doing?

TL;DR: Yes. If the solenoid were restricted in some way (internal clog, weak coil only holding the valve partway open) it might not be allowing enough pressure to pass to hold 4th (OD) engaged.

The hydraulic control unit turns 3 inputs into fluid pressure (torque converter speed, road speed, accelerator position). These pressures work in the valve body, a complex series of passages, valves, orifices, and springs which balance these pressures against each other on a series of shift valves, determining which valves are open and which are shut, and therefore which gear is selected. It's a ludicrously complex mechanism, but can be broken down into smaller sub systems for easier understanding.

The 3rd/4th shift valve is the one we're interested in. It has flywheel speed pressure on one side trying to shift it to 3rd, and road speed pressure on the other side trying to shift it to 4th. Imagine you're in 3rd and accelerating. As road speed increases the pressure eventually overcomes the torque converter speed pressure and the valve gets pushed to the 4th position, shifting the gearbox up into 4th. If road speed drops, torque converter speed pressure overcomes road speed pressure and the valve gets pushed back to 3rd. Easy.
To complicate things, Mitsubishi added a solenoid to disable 4th gear. If the solenoid is off ("OD off" light on the dash illuminated), torque converter speed pressure is blocked from acting on the valve and road speed pressure will keep it in 3rd, even at high torque converter speeds or low road speeds. With the solenoid on, torque converter speed pressure is restored and can shift the valve to 4th. If the solenoid was clogged or weak, it might be partially blocking torque converter speed pressure from fully acting on the valve, and road speed pressure might be strong enough to shift it to 3rd when it shouldn't.

That's what your symptoms sound like to me, since it's shifting normally in other gears and doesn't seem abnormally slow. The solenoid is also well known for causing problems, and it's easy and cheap (if you shop around) to replace.

It might also be a number of other things, as sk66 says. Clogged filter screen in the transmission would lower torque converter speed pressure (but that would usually affect the other gears), faulty governor (but that would also affect all the shift points too, not just OD), gunked up internal passages/sticky valves/weak spring in the hydraulic control unit (that would *suuuuck*, but would involve replacing the solenoid anyway so it's easier to start there). Faulty pressure pump (more suckage- expensive!).
 
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That's what your symptoms sound like to me, since it's shifting normally in other gears and doesn't seem abnormally slow.
That's the thing... it's not really shifting abnormally in/out of 4th either (from my understanding). The problem is it can't maintain higher speeds in 4th... and then it shifts into third like it should when the speed drops and/or trying to accelerate from a lower speed w/ heavy throttle.

I haven't really read/decoded the shift pattern chart it's supposed to follow, and that behavior hasn't been described... My van shifts between 3-4 at ~ 40mph(65kph) under cruise/light acceleration, and around 50-60mph (80-100kph) with heavy throttle. I think that's probably pretty normal and it seems to fit the description (?).

IMO, it's either a lack of top end power w/ the OD gear ratio, or the transmission slipping in OD, that is causing it to bleed off speed. A stall test should identify which... and it's easy to do.
If the transmission is slipping even with proper fluid level it's probably not going to be easy/cheap...
 
I'm reading the symptoms as "driving on flat highway at 60mph it shifts in and out of 4th".. but yeah, it depends what the precise symptoms are.
Mostly I'm thinking of how the OD solenoid is a common fault and can cause some weird symptoms before it fails completely.

A stall test is probably a good idea, being quick and easy and non-invasive.
 
Thanks @sk66 and @Growlerbearnz !! I will try the stall test tomorrow and provide an update.

More symptom details: driving anywhere between 45-60 mph, I let off the gas allowing the van to shift into 4th. It will stay here but the speed and rpms will drop until it shifts to third. If I try to counter this by giving it gas it will immediately shift to third.

Any idea where I could find a OD solenoid if a replacement is needed? Having trouble finding one so far.
 
The generic name for our transmission is "AW372". Volvos had the same transmission, but slightly different wiring- I believe their solenoid earthed through the casing, where ours has a separate earth wire. In theory if you bought this Volvo solenoid and connected its single wire to the red wire on your existing solenoid, and ignored your solenoid's black wire, it would work. Haven't tried it though.

My auto shifted into 4th on its own at around 45-50mph and stayed in 4th, even when accelerating (gently) up to 60. You had to push the accelerator almost all the way down to make it downshift to 3rd. sk66 has a point- if your engine is extremely weak you might be using more accelerator than normal to maintain 60, but I'd think you'd notice that?

I might be barking up entirely the wrong tree here. It might be an internal clog. But replacing the solenoid is *cheap* compared to having the transmission rebuilt, so it's a good place to start.
 
The Volvo solenoid I used is part #1239928... looks like the same as Grant linked to and about the same price. You have to cut the cables and splice it into the harness, but it's straight forward. And you can pull that section of harness easily to do the work inside at a bench. Still, I'd rather not be cutting into the harness if it's not necessary.

There's also the solenoid bypass hack which is free and doesn't require any harness cutting/splicing. But it also removes your ability to manually select 3rd gear when necessary/beneficial (which really isn't very often IME). I did this hack in the interim so I had a drivable van while I waited for the replacement part and time to install it.
 
I believe their solenoid earthed through the casing, where ours has a separate earth wire.
I would have to crawl underneath and verify what I did, but I believe the OEM solenoid is also grounded through the case... the 2nd wire in that plug/harness actually goes to some thingamabob on the other side of the transmission.
If it comes to it, I can always crawl underneath and verify the wiring connections... looks like I'll be under it soon enough to fix a brake line leak anyway...
 
If it comes to it, I can always crawl underneath and verify the wiring connections... looks like I'll be under it soon enough to fix a brake line leak anyway...
That would be pretty useful, if you could. Even just for future reference. I'd do it, but my automatic is no longer with us.
 
Okay gentleman. I hooked up a new OD solenoid. I wired the new one by connecting the single wire to the single wire that connected to the old one, even though the old one splits and connects to two different plugs. Unfortunately, not only did my original problem not go away but after about 20 min of driving the OD stopped working entirely.... so now have two issues :) not sure what could have happened to the solenoid since it was working for a while initially. But looks like i might need to take it to a transmission specialist to properly diagnose the isssue and see what I jacked up on the solenoid replacement.
 
Sounds like your splice didn't hold up, or maybe the little o-ring is out of place? The original wire doesn't "split," there are two wires in the harness and each goes to a different plug... you didn't cut both of them did you?
I'm 99% certain on this... but I haven't verified as I'd have to completely re-open the harness.
 
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