Purchasing a new engine

TukHollow said:
A new engine is required.... on engine start ups it would start at Cold and then rise 1/3 of the way up when the engine was warm. I did notice that the day before my engine went kaplooie (and only that day, never before), the temp gauge needle would rise from 1/3 to 1/2 above Cold during driving, but it never reached the Red zone. I'm pretty cautious when I drive, trying to keep rpms never above 3000 and not going over 100kph on the freeways.
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Damn, that's no good. I thoroughly recommend a crate Hyundai D4BF engine, if you can justify the expense.

Your temperature gauge sounds like it was behaving normally- they usually sit around 1/3, and will rise when climbing a long hill.
If I had to guess I'd say your head gasket blew and the coolant went through the cylinder, possibly damaging the bore and making it more prone to seizure, which happened once the engine overheated. If the coolant level gets too low the sensor isn't immersed in coolant and won't register the true extent of the overheating.

It's good to treat the engine with respect- it is an old design- but the occasional rev out to 4000rpm when it's hot will clear the shmutz off the valves.
 
Just a thought here as a source for new engine... I know that Import Performance Auto in Bend, Oregon has been importing engines for quite a while.
 
Growlerbearnz said:
Once you've found your importer (sorry, I can't help there) here's a thread about fitting it: Hyundai D4BF Install on Delica.ca
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A couple quick questions as I’m continuing to research and learn about our deli engine. Your link to your install has proved helpful in teaching me about engines in general. I helped my dad many a times work on our cars growing up but never crossed over to being the head mechanic- I took up knitting instead! ;-) But i’m Up for this research challenge!

I wanted to verify, your install mentioned a D4BF but when I clicked on the Hyundai link you provided the engine in your pics resembled the D4BH... so I got confused. You did I fact purchase the D4BF? Our mechanic recommended that the D4BH would be the closet for fit.

Also, engine mounts. Are there only two? Do you have the part number off hand? I’m making a list of parts. Our mechanic recommended getting factory transmission mount/s also because you never know if a 30 year old part is gonna bust when removing it- better safe than sorry.
Again, I’m impressed with your motor/mechanical smarts. :)
 
Whoops! You're the only person to have noticed that mistake. Now fixed. The D4BF is the one you want: mechanically-controlled injection, non-intercooled engine, and is pretty much an exact copy of what you have right now.

The D4BH has an electronically controlled injection pump (you'd need to install an ECU and wiring) and manifolds designed for an intercooler. Not a straightforward drop-in swap.

Engine mounts: Correct, there are only two on the engine, and if they've sagged they're a pain to remove. It's a good idea to fit new ones. The entire drivetrain is held up by 4 mounts- the two engine mounts, and the two transfer case mounts (which are themselves hanging from 2 crossmember mounts. The crossmember mounts are not available individually, you have to buy a whole new crossmember, but Nissan Tiida mounts will fit with a little tweaking: Details Here on Delica.ca)

I should have had the part numbers for the engine mounts in my list, but they're not there. Just head over to mitsubishi.epc-data.com, enter your chassis number, and you'll get a parts catalog that suits your Delica. AFAIK the engine mounts are the same for all Diesel Delicas, but the rear mounts are different for manual and automatic.
 
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Excellent information. For that price, I'm not even replacing my timing belt. I'm going to order an engine and run my truck till she goes. It's not long off as she's been forced to inhale 16psi of boost for the last year.
 
Growlerbearnz said:
Murphy's Law says:
-If you have a new engine siting there ready to go, your old engine will outlast the sun.
-If your old engine *does* break, it'll do so at the most inconvenient moment, when you're far away from your replacement engine.

;-)
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You know, that's exactly what I was thinking when I typed my first message. I laughed out loud because I imagined being the guy that bought the defective Hyundai engine. I would have found the defect approximately 5 miles into a one way trail somewhere in Moab!
 
My mechanic told me today there is too much end play in the crankshaft. Thrust bearing is shot. So... my question is: do I need a new engine?
 
Gardenerguy said:
My mechanic told me today there is too much end play in the crankshaft. Thrust bearing is shot. So... my question is: do I need a new engine?
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Just make sure it's not the crank pulley coming loose or separating at the rubber- that's fairly common, and I don't know how your mechanic measured the end play. Thrust bearing play is uncommon on these engines, the thrust bearings are quite robust. The limit of thrust bearing play is 0.25mm (0.0098"), which isn't much.

Changing the thrust bearings isn't too difficult, but whether it's worth doing depends on what condition the rest of your engine is in. I'd be doing a compression test at least. It's possible your thrust bearing has failed prematurely from someone sitting there with their foot on the clutch rather than shifting into neutral (if it's a manual), but if it's as worn as all the other bearings then it might be cheaper to find another engine.
 
FYI,

I'm currently working on importing one of these engines. I am experiencing issues with EPA circumvention. Since this engine is new, it has to conform with current EPA regulations implemented on whatever year of engine manufacture. And while that's fine, this engine ain't exactly NOX free. So it either has to come into the country dressed as a lion wearing a hat or I've got a problem. Keep you posted.
 
Growler, the reason I had the rig in was for a new crankshaft bearing. The mechanic (owner of the local auto repair shop) said with a prybar he could move the crankshaft almost 1/2". I'm not a mechanic (except in my mind on really simple stuff), and I don't know what he was measuring, but seems to me that if there was that much play, everything inside the engine, connecting rods, etc. would be so far out of alignment, that damage would occur.

I've had this nice little van for less than a month and don't know much about the engine. The mechanic doesn't have any experience with these engines either. The engine has high miles with 234,000 km and automatic trans. The engine fires up instantly (after second click) and purrs (if a diesel can purr). There are no oil leaks, just a bit of weeping from the water pump, and the belts are in good shape.

Kellyn, thanks for the info on importing. I thought there had to be a catch. I've been researching a remanufactured engine of the correct period. I am at least the third owner of this rig and have no history on it. I like the thought of having the peace of mind starting with a fresh engine.
 
Gardenerguy said:
correction: replaced Crankshaft Pulley
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I'd take it to somewhere with more experience. I know it's a few hours for you, but Dean's in Portland are the best around. They have a full time Delica mechanic and last time I was in had 4 in there. They have parts on hand and are good at what they do.
 
Kellyn said:
I'm currently working on importing one of these engines. I am experiencing issues with EPA circumvention.
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That doesn't sound right to me... I thought the installation had to conform if applicable (i.e. complete system w/ exhaust, etc). How do they get those grey market imports here then (< 25yrs old brought in as parts).

Edit: a quick bit of research shows that you should be able to import the engine for installation into a Delica under the "equivalence" exclusion... although it might take a bit of work to convince them that a 4DBF is the same thing as a 4D56 (although, I believe they have the same stampings/markings)
 
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sk66 said:
That doesn't sound right to me... I thought the installation had to conform if applicable (i.e. complete system w/ exhaust, etc). How do they get those grey market imports here then (< 25yrs old brought in as parts).

Edit: a quick bit of research shows that you should be able to import the engine for installation into a Delica under the "equivalence" exclusion... although it might take a bit of work to convince them that a D4BF is the same thing as a D456 (although, I believe they have the same stampings/markings)
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I think SK66 has a good point. If the vehicle is already registered in the US, an equivalent replacement engine should be legit, even if manufactured after the 25 year cutoff.

There is some info in this Expedition Portal thread from a few years back that may substantiate this. A guy in Utah was able to have one shipped to his door...

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/judging-interest-for-group-buy-4d56t-hyundai-d4bf.135536/

and a little ways down this page on another thread he references having used Maxoverdrive in Canada to source it...

https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/mitsubishi-4d56t-into-a-1988-mazda-b2600.43424/page-6

Has anyone contacted a Hyundai dealer to inquire about sourcing an engine?

Edit: I'll also go on record to say that I am looking to get one of these engines. It would seem there is somewhat of a critical mass forming here, so if there is any possibility of or advantage to doing a "group buy" I'm in.


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