What Did You Do for Your Van Today?

Added the FTS4x4 skid plates and hitch I got through @13mclean bulk order. Also extended the spare tire cage so that it holds the 235/75r15 spare fully inflated (I had to deflate the tire to about 20psi to get it to fit without the extension). I'll do a writeup about the extension if there's not already one on the forum.
 
Another oil change done and dusted. While I was in there I noticed and repaired a couple of things.

  • A bolt from the EGR on the turbo side had wiggled out. I took the elbow off and fiddled with it and realized that it had stripped out. Used a 13 mm tap and replaced the bolt (which should rattle a whole lot less now).
  • While I had the manifold open I monkeyed around in the turbo for a bit. Everything appears in much better shape and the oil can is doing an admirable job eliminating blow-by.
  • Noticed a rodent left me a gift of split maple seed shells on top of the batteries. Cleaned this off and made certain that was it. I'm out of peppermint oil at the moment, but its on the shopping list. No sign of a nest and I looked everywhere.
 
Replaced the headlight bulbs
- H1 Philips X-tremeVision for high beams
- H3 Philips VisionPlus for low beams

Noticed inside the drivers side headlight cavity (behind where the headlight assembly sits, there was a loose plug connected to the wires that connect to the indicator and headlights.

Any ideas what it it? (Circled in red on 3rd picture)

(Pictures are just the passenger side replaced to show comparison. It doesn’t appear a big difference for low beams but it really is when you are driving)5A659986-62EA-4DCE-A945-3AEDA4360F8F.jpegF04FF72E-DEC9-4DC0-8442-3DD70F071391.jpeg
 
I never even had a vehicle with a transmission oil cooler before.

Once I figured out what it was, it was time to figure out why it was covered in oil. I took at shot at replacing the in and out lines with new rubber today. I sure hope that the hoses are the issue and there is not a leak in the aluminum cooler itself.
IMG_0604.JPG
 
bigsleep55 said:
Replaced the headlight bulbs
- H1 Philips X-tremeVision for high beams
- H3 Philips VisionPlus for low beams

Noticed inside the drivers side headlight cavity (behind where the headlight assembly sits, there was a loose plug connected to the wires that connect to the indicator and headlights.

Any ideas what it it? (Circled in red on 3rd picture)

(Pictures are just the passenger side replaced to show comparison. It doesn’t appear a big difference for low beams but it really is when you are driving)View attachment 1788View attachment 1790
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It may be the connection to the driving lights in you high-beam housing. they are supposed to flick on/off with your turn signal. at least they do on my euro version and my other older european cars. That said, i know the High and Low beams are H1 and H3 bulbs, but what type of bulb, exactly, is used for the driving lights? I was thinking of getting yellow ones to see how they look.
 
Yesterday, I installed and wired my triple gauge pod that I installed under the radio/dash area.
I was only getting about 5 psi max boost, but changed-out a worn and rusted turbo actuator arm assembly, and adjusted it shorter. I have a healthy 10 psi now. I want to watch my EGT on some long highway sprints before i do any further adjusting.
 
Busted out the aluminum foil and cleaned up the sliding door guide. World of difference.
Now does anyone have any sourcing or part # cross reference for 1989 front light housings (the glass and reflector unit that the bulbs fit into). I have corrosion on both of my right hand side units and wold love to replace. Thx
 
My driver's side window has been problematic, struggling to go up and I'd often have to help it the last third of the way. It was clear that the window alignment was somehow off. I'd generally have to assist the forward edge of the window, as if the whole window was tilting toward the front. Due to being askew it would struggle or jam altogether. I lubed the window guides with both graphite and silicone spray. no love. Time to have a closer look

As you can see, rear edge of the window is dropping out of the frame due to the forward edge dropping.
1.jpg

Door disassembly is well covered in delica.ca and the manual. Once the door panel was off, I lubed interior rails, ran it up and down and looked for adjustment screws. I had read there were adjustable rails, but nothing on my van seemed to have any play.

It seemed more likely that the front of the window would sag as opposed to the rear raising faster. I needed to get the front edge angled more vertical.

Here you see the front guide rail that aligns the window while it is in the door and guides it into the upper frame.

2.jpg

As you can see, when the window is down, there is a fulcrum point of sorts on this rail supporting much of the glass weight. I suspect this causes it to bow.

There is space between the guide and the door frame (space to shim) I found by applying pressure here, i.e. pulling it in with one hand while operating the switch with the other, I could make the window rise smoothly.

The gap measured 5/8" After cutting a few pieces of wood slightly larger to see what would straighten the window without constricting it, I decided to add 3/32" inch to the gap. I used some old ipe from a deck I built, so this is very hard wood that should not compact much. I suppose metal would be more precise.
3.jpg

Pry the rail out slightly with a screwdriver and insert your shim. Secure with a dab of epoxy for good measure.
4.jpg

Close up door. Window rises smoothly and evenly again!
 
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I have a similar problem, but the glass seems to tilt outward at the top when closing. Glass jambs up about an inch from the top.
This happens to both doors, but only when driving. Both windows close fine when parked.
Previous owner provided neat little suction cup hooks to hold the top of the window in as you close it.
Keeps all three of my hands pretty busy while I'm driving.

I'll have to open up the panel and see what's going on in there.
Might be tough to do while driving.

Gardenerguy
 
Gardenerguy said:
This happens to both doors, but only when driving. Both windows close fine when parked.
Click to expand...

This is a common problem and has to do with wind pressure generated. The window motor literally isn't strong enough to close the window properly at speed. Mitsubishi makes a part to fix this (MB421735). It's available on Amayama, costs about $15 after shipping and guides the window in to its home.
 
natematos said:
At least this is $15 for both sides and about a 30 second install.
Click to expand...
Where does this get installed? In the image (item 67103) on epcdata.ru, it looks like it mounts into the window run channel...
143_1103P3AB0T.png
 
sck_nogas said:
Where does this get installed? In the image (item 67103) on epcdata.ru, it looks like it mounts into the window run channel...
Click to expand...

Correct. It sits just above the upper mirror mount on either side. The part includes a little hook that goes up and around the rubber window channel.
 
general maintenance goodies: new air and fuel filters, R & R power steering fluid and oil in front & rear diff's, and transfer case.
 
You’re correct, I’ve got one on my passenger side, but not on my drivers, and only have issue with my driver side. Any speed over about 53mph, I have to lower the passenger window half way to pressurize the cab right so the drivers side window seats properly when closing. ‍♂️
 
Installed an OEM rear curtain. It was from a high roof, so I had to get a little creative and the fit isn't 100% perfect. But it is damn good. Combining this with my front curtain I'll now be able to sleep without that damn sun waking me up!
 
Well, I just got my Delica back from being "modified" to pass CARB (California Air Resources Board) requirements in order to un-lock the previous owners' attempt to register it in California. Once it got flagged in the DMV, there was little else I could do. Options were...
  1. Take it to one of the two testing labs in California to have them modify and certify that it meets EPA standards for the model year.
  2. Create a paper LLC company in another state, then have that "company" register it in another state, I'm looking at you, Montana. But, in CA, that's illegal and they are cracking down on it.
  3. Sell it to an out of state buyer, find another Delica, and try again. :(
So, I went for the more expensive, but legal route. Hey... I wanted to keep my newly installed engine and I just finished repainting this one!

So, on Friday morning, I picked up my Delica after California Environmental Engineering/G&K Auto Conversions installed an HJS City-Filter Diesel Particulate Filter and then ran whatever tests that it takes them 12 weeks to do. On my way home, I stopped by the DMV office to file the paperwork to have them send it up to Sacramento to the DMV Technical Compliance Section to have them remove the block on registration.

Didn't have an appointment, but when I showed them the pile of paperwork I had, they had me work with Crystal, the specialist. She looked up the record, made a few calls, looked again, made another set of calls, took my registration fees, etc... After 2 hours, I had a VIN verifier come out and look at my car. Okay, I'm thinking "last step before they send my paperwork off", then I can go have lunch... He looks at my VIN, (it's a British Columbia assigned VIN) and he says... The VIN decodes for a 1998, but the all the paperwork says it's a 1991...

Uhhh, no... It's an Assigned VIN when it was imported. See my VIN is 2BG705316W0000000
  • 2BG = Canada, British Columbia Assigned
  • 70531 = Vehicle Attributes
  • 6 = Check Digit
  • W = Model Year = 1998
  • 0 = Plant code
  • 000000 = Sequential Number (Not actual number)
Oh, no... According to VIN decoding, it should have been M not W... So, the Vin verification guy says I have to take it to CHP to have them do a VIN verification and approval... So, it's back into the DMV office and Crystal gives me a temporary registration and the paperwork to schedule an appointment with CHP. Call the CHP number, first available appointment is March 6th... Crap... Just wanted to get the paperwork mailed out, and now I need to wait another month, have an inspection, then head BACK to the DMV, to get ANOTHER 30 day registration and have them mail the paperwork to Sacramento. To then wait some more time to have the Technical Compliance Section remove the block, to then go BACK to the DMV, to finally finish the paperwork to then be able to register my car! That will take MONTHS!!!! Head home, all dejected...

Get home and get a call from the DMV. Apparently the DMV office manager disagrees with the CHP need, and would I mind coming back? 45 minutes later, BACK at the DMV, talking to Crystal. A different VIN verification guy comes out, looks at it, marks a few things on his paperwork and I go back in to talk to Crystal. This time, she goes back and huddles with the manager. The DMV manager comes up and apologizes to me? I'm grateful that they are willing to work so hard on this. Thinking that we still need to send paperwork up to Sacramento, am not expecting much. Then Crystal comes back. She's smiling... She opens a drawer, pulls out some plates, and hands them to me. She's done the impossible! I'm now registered?

Yup, I'm finally legal!!! First thing I do? Go out and try an over night camp in Blair Valley and go hike some mountains!
blair - 1.jpgblair - 2.jpgblair - 3.jpgblair - 4.jpg
Just folded the seats down, threw in an air mattress, and sleeping bag. Not going to make it into a full camper, as I want to take 5-7 people out in the desert/mountains/wilderness on my trips, in addition to car camping in style.

Time to take a well needed rest!
blair - 5.jpg

It is possible!!!
 
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Installed the Monroe 708s on the rear and put in a little on-board compressor while I was at it.

Big Thanks to growlerbearnz for doing the leg work on that one!! They work sweet.IMG_2664.JPG

I fed my shock air lines up and popped a shrader valve out from rear wash compartment, then mounted the compressor on the wash compartment door. (There is also a nice handy ground screw right inside the compartment.) This put the compressor safely inside, but I can access easily to attach a line to inflate tires in a pinch. Forward line will run under the carpet, then it meanders beneath the driver seat and to a fill switch on the dash.
 
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