Delica JB500 Camper

Fantastic. I gave up on the kitchen extractor and put in an in-line unit, retaining the outside plastic cover. The original fan must be 25 years old. Time to replace.
 
Hey Y'all,
I have a 1995 JB470 and was wondering if anyone could help me with some of my solar and wiring issues. I'm new to the delica club - not sure if this is the best place to post this, but it seems like this is my audience and we're all in this together.

First question: I keep having problems with the truck electrical. The fuse for the dash lights/horn/emergencyflashers randomly blows then works for a month, then blows again. Same with the blinker/gas gauge/temp gauge. Same with the stereo. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this stuff?

Second question: I installed solar onto the rig a couple months ago. During the process I was told to disconnect the car battery from the new auxiliary battery because I changed it to lithium. Ever since the disconnect, the diesel heater doesn't work anymore. It will turn on and blow out cold air, then restart blow cold air and turn itself off. I replaced the relays and the heater worked for about 4 days, but only when the key was turned in the ignition. It's back to cold air and I am confused. Do you think the heater needs to be connected to the car battery? I wonder why it was connected there in the first place...

can anyone help??

Thanks,
Megan + Mochi
 
You best bet may be to start by following all the wires and draw your wiring diagram for the camper. It will then be easier to find out what is the problem (and future problems) and give you advice.

As for the diesel heater, they need a lot of amps when they start. You need a battery in good health + good wiring. You could test your heater unplugged from the camper electric by using an independent fully charged battery.
 
Agree with the high amp demand on diesel heater startup, it's likely the wired system was designed to run the heater only when the alternator was working. That heater could pull 10+ amps at start, then run at 3-4amps continously. The vehicle system was just designed to protect the house battery from depleting when the engine isn't adding charge.
But, diesel heaters do occasionally need service, glow plugs go bad, metering pumps can have issues, there should be a small inline screen filter just before the pump to look at. The metering pumps make a ticking sound, and if you put a hand on it you can feel it pulse.
I have a '95 JB500, and rewiring parts of it, adding solar, replacing the AC etc, was an adventure.
And yes, your lithium battery is incompatible with the OEM charging profile. An AGM or FLA deep cycle would have worked as originally intended. The camper was designed for the engine battery and one house battery of the same lead - acid type.
I expanded my house bank to two group 27 deep-cycle FLA, with a 160w solar on the roof.
 
Macleod said:
Agree with the high amp demand on diesel heater startup, it's likely the wired system was designed to run the heater only when the alternator was working. That heater could pull 10+ amps at start, then run at 3-4amps continously. The vehicle system was just designed to protect the house battery from depleting when the engine isn't adding charge.
But, diesel heaters do occasionally need service, glow plugs go bad, metering pumps can have issues, there should be a small inline screen filter just before the pump to look at. The metering pumps make a ticking sound, and if you put a hand on it you can feel it pulse.
I have a '95 JB500, and rewiring parts of it, adding solar, replacing the AC etc, was an adventure.
And yes, your lithium battery is incompatible with the OEM charging profile. An AGM or FLA deep cycle would have worked as originally intended. The camper was designed for the engine battery and one house battery of the same lead - acid type.
I expanded my house bank to two group 27 deep-cycle FLA, with a 160w solar on the roof.
Click to expand...
I should have added the basic thing that insufficient power or lack of fuel will not let the heater startup, but it will try, and blow cold air until it gives up and shuts down.
 
Mochi said:
Hey Y'all,
I have a 1995 JB470 and was wondering if anyone could help me with some of my solar and wiring issues. I'm new to the delica club - not sure if this is the best place to post this, but it seems like this is my audience and we're all in this together.

First question: I keep having problems with the truck electrical. The fuse for the dash lights/horn/emergencyflashers randomly blows then works for a month, then blows again. Same with the blinker/gas gauge/temp gauge. Same with the stereo. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this stuff?

Second question: I installed solar onto the rig a couple months ago. During the process I was told to disconnect the car battery from the new auxiliary battery because I changed it to lithium. Ever since the disconnect, the diesel heater doesn't work anymore. It will turn on and blow out cold air, then restart blow cold air and turn itself off. I replaced the relays and the heater worked for about 4 days, but only when the key was turned in the ignition. It's back to cold air and I am confused. Do you think the heater needs to be connected to the car battery? I wonder why it was connected there in the first place...

can anyone help??

Thanks,
Megan + Mochi
Click to expand...
1) can not with the truck fuses issue
2) on the solar panels I disconnected the oem connection to the truck battery. I have renogy solar system I connected the two batteries per instructions of the renogy installation.
3) the 12v to the refrigerator is supposed to be powered when the ignition is on. I had problems with this it was intermittent. There are two wire that powers the 12v to the back, I disconnected the oem connection and powered them directly from the truck battery and installed a switch on the dash to send power there when I need it. I think this is all on this thread.
4) regarding the diesel heater mine is not a diesel heater I believe it is heated using radiator water. I have not messed around wit it. See picture
 

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Nulla said:
Hello, We are very new to the world of Delica. Our Delica is a JB500 camper should be arriving in Los Angeles in about 2 to 3 weeks. We will prep it in Los Angeles then begin our joy ride across the USA. We have a lot of learning to do. What we know so far is that it is a L300 with a 4D56 turbo Diesel engine (learned from this forum). The first thing we will do is to change the timing belt, we are trying to source a timing belt kit. I have already send inquiries to Amayama and Megazip. If there are other sources please let us know. After changing the timing belt, water pump etc.. Next is to make the engine more efficient and reliable . This will include the following;
1. Inter cooler - looking for a bolt on kit if available
2. Installing a larger down pipe - looking for a bolt on kit if available if not it will be a trip to a muffler shop
3. Installing a more efficient air intake - looking for a bolt on kit
4. EGT gage - what brand are you all using?
5. Boost control - what brand are you all using?
6. Install an electric fuel pump
7. Install an oil catch can
Other suggestions to make the engine for efficient and reliable are welcome. After installing the above we will then twik the engine as suggested in this forum i.e, removing the EGR gage etc....

Looking forward to your suggestions. We will share inside photos when we get them. Thank you.
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Can I ask you how you purchased your jb500? I'm seriously looking to buy one too. Can you give me your buyer/importer's contact info? Thanks! And congrats on your purchase!!
 
Nulla said:
I got mine from Ottoex https://www.ottoex.com/ Alex was very helpful.
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We also bought ours from Alex at ottoex. Paid for it in July but just getting the chance to get away and pick it up this week. VERY happy with Alex but were really looking for an Isuzu Elf Outback Express. There's a great looking one on ebay right now for $35K. 1995,under 20K miles.
 
YogaSlackerSam said:
3200kg? Nice. Our L300 is 3300kg
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I saw the number on the scale and it is what is written on the paper to purchase the ticket, the cost of the ticket is base on the weight and length of the vehicle. I hope it is correct, hard to believe that your l300 is heavier.
 
Nulla said:
I saw the number on the scale and it is what is written on the paper to purchase the ticket, the cost of the ticket is base on the weight and length of the vehicle. I hope it is correct, hard to believe that your l300 is heavier.
Click to expand...
The #Slackervan is 7200lbs. I have had it on a few scales :). See links below.

expeditionportal.com

Mitsubishi Delica L300 4x4 – “SLACKERvan” - Expedition Portal

SLACKERvan’s Mitsubishi Delica L300 4x4 might just be the most impressive compact overland rig I’ve ever seen.
expeditionportal.com

gearjunkie.com

Delica Like No Other: This 1988 Mitsubishi Might Be the Most Impressive Van Life Build Ever

A rare 1988 Mitsubishi Delica has hundreds of custom features and modifications — maybe more than any other van of its kind in the world.
gearjunkie.com gearjunkie.com
 
Yes I am, BUT I need the EGT reading bigger, it is very difficult to see in the day time when the sun is on it. The EGT is most important to me when I am driving. When get a change I will go to their website to see if there is one with a big EGT reading and whether it is plug and play with my current wiring.
 
ronsjc said:
I realize this is an old post, but I'm considering the same gage. Happy with it? I have a L400 so I'm hoping the install will be fairly straight forward.
Ron
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Nulla said:
Yes I am, BUT I need the EGT reading bigger, it is very difficult to see in the day time when the sun is on it. The EGT is most important to me when I am driving. When get a change I will go to their website to see if there is one with a big EGT reading and whether it is plug and play with my current wiring.
Click to expand...
I just look at the link you send. This is the one I need, my egt is where the boost is located very small. I wonder if I can replace mine with this format, plug and play.
 
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