What Did You Do for Your Van Today?

I am going camping this weekend and wanted to get some of the things that bugged me "fixed".

So, with help of my girlfriend we sewed some new curtains using some nice grey blackout curtain fabric, some roman shade tape (to add structure to the top and bottom) and then a bunch of RV Designer A102 Large drape carriers to create this...
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Then I added a simple waterproof switch to turn off the blinding door light from hell.
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Can now become...
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So, at night when I open the door I don't blind/wake up the entire campground... :p
 
Installed a small 120V AC inverter where the ashtray used to be. It's only 150W but useful for running for things that expect wall power, like my laptop charger, or the pump for the air bed.
The frame around it is 3-D printed so it fits the curves of the trim, and JB-Welded into place. It does not obstruct the air flow around the aluminum body of the inverter. Wired into the cigarette lighter, but I may wire it into permanent power. I checked, the handy little switch really turns it off and it doesn't draw any power.
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Installed a small 120V AC inverter where the ashtray used to be. It's only 150W but useful for running for things that expect wall power, like my laptop charger, or the pump for the air bed.
The frame around it is 3-D printed so it fits the curves of the trim, and JB-Welded into place. It does not obstruct the air flow around the aluminum body of the inverter. Wired into the cigarette lighter, but I may wire it into permanent power. I checked, the handy little switch really turns it off and it doesn't draw any power.
View attachment 2678

When the inverter is running does it throw a lot of heat into the cabin? That looks awesome.
 
Finally got around to replacing the muffler after 2 years of embarrassing rattles and smelly interior, she almost purrs now. Of course the next day some idiot reversed into my parked van and cracked my spot lights!
 
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Windows tinted, roof bars, awning, a tiny roof rack and a LED bar.

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Installed a side exhaust as well, pretty simple but a bit louder than I really wanted. Loud but not obnoxious.

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Last 3 days have been a bit of a pain in the but but im done with the major bits for now.

Radiator, thermostat,rear carpet and seats removed.

Thermostat gave me a bit of an issue but now its all good and no longer leaking.

Will tackle the valve cover gasket and ball joints later this week.
 

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When the inverter is running does it throw a lot of heat into the cabin? That looks awesome.
No, it barely gets warm - it's only 150W output. I had it laying around and I was tired of looking at the gaping hole where the ash tray used to be.
The inverter has an aluminum housing but none of the active components that may need cooling contact it. It only has small-ish vent holes in the front and rear bezel, so I wouldn't trust it to run a space heater. But it charges my MacBook (85W power brick) just fine, and the pump for the Aerobed.
The ashtray bezel is 3-D printed and glued into the trim with some JB Weld. It took a bit of dremeling to get it to fit. And I must have printed ten versions because of the weird shape of the cutout as well as the inverter itself.

- Fabian (aka Krazykraut)
 
Last winter I came to realize the air volume of both the front and rear heaters was a bit weak. I wasn't sure if this was just a characteristic of the Delica, but crawling under the van to check out the rear system I had discovered that all of the foam tape insulation between the heater box/blower enclosure and the body duct-work, as well as the A/C coil enclosure had deteriorated to the point that there were huge gaps allowing blowing air to escape. When the fan was running I cold feel warm air blasting from the gaps. So, while I've got the coolant drained I thought it a good time to remedy the situation as well as clean up the entire assembly. I removed the heater box/blower assembly by first disconnecting the two electrical harnesses and coolant lines and then the three fasteners that hold it to the body.
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After I had it out I peeled off the remaining foam tape from both the blower as well as around the ducting on the body. I also removed the blower motor/fan assembly and what I think is the thermostat little coil thingy, and then sprayed out the whole enclosure with a hose. Go easy on the fins of the coil as they are quite fragile and will bend.
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I didn't want to disconnect the refrigerant lines to the A/C in order to get to the foam tape between it and the body ducting, so I just loosened the bracket securing the lines to the underside of the body and then removed the three fasteners that hold the enclosure to the body, which allowed enough room to clean it up and R/R the foam tape. While I was in there I also carefully sprayed and vacuumed out both sides of the coils. The inside, in particular, had a lot of deteriorated foam stuck to the fins.
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I also discovered the flappers had a foam backing that more or less melted when I touched it, but the only way to replace it would be to split the two halves of the blower enclosure by removing the screws and clips that fastened it together, which was more than I wanted to take on, so I just cleaned off the remainder of what was there and left it as-is. I don't feel it will significantly affect the function of the flaps.

I decided not to use the same type of foam weatherstripping as it had been originally assembled with, but instead I found a rubberized adhesive tape of a similar dimension.
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The cover to the duct-work controls had a slightly more narrow dimension but it was no problem to cut the adhesive tape down to make it fit.

After everything was cleaned up and new weatherstripping tape applied I put it all back toether and the fit is nice and snug with no gaps. Can't test it yet, as there is not battery power to the van but it will undoubtedly result in much more air volume to the rear.

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Next up...the front heater!
 

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Last winter I came to realize the air volume of both the front and rear heaters were a bit weak. I wasn't sure if this was just a characteristic of the Delica, but crawling under the van to check out the rear system I had discovered that all of the foam tape insulation between the heater box/blower enclosure and the body duct-work, as well as the A/C coil enclosure had deteriorated to the point that there were huge gaps allowing blowing air to escape. When the fan was running I cold feel warm air blasting from the gaps. So, while I've got the coolant drained I thought it a good time to remedy the situation as well as clean up the entire assembly. I removed the heater box/blower assembly by first disconnecting the two electrical harnesses and coolant lines and then the three fasteners that hold it to the body.
View attachment 2731
After I had it out I peeled off the remaining foam tape from both the blower as well as around the ducting on the body. I also removed the blower motor/fan assembly and what I think is the thermostat little coil thingy, and then sprayed out the whole enclosure with a hose. Go easy on the fins of the coil as they are quite fragile and will bend.
View attachment 2735
I didn't want to disconnect the refrigerant lines to the A/C in order to get to the foam tape between it and the body ducting, so I just loosened the bracket securing the lines to the underside of the body and then removed the three fasteners that hold the enclosure to the body, which allowed enough room to clean it up and R/R the foam tape. While I was in there I also carefully sprayed and vacuumed out both sides of the coils. The inside, in particular, had a lot of deteriorated foam stuck to the fins.
View attachment 2732

View attachment 2733

I also discovered the flappers had a foam backing that more or less melted when I touched it, but the only way to replace it would be to split the two halves of the blower enclosure by removing the screws and clips that fastened it together, which was more than I wanted to take on, so I just cleaned off the remainder of what was there and left it as-is. I don't feel it will significantly affect the function of the flaps.

I decide not to use the same type of foam weatherstripping as it had been originally assembled with, but instead I found a rubberized adhesive tape of a similar dimension.
View attachment 2736

View attachment 2741

The cover to the duct-work controls had a slightly more narrow dimension but it was no problem to cut the adhesive tape down to make it fit.

After everything was cleaned up and new weatherstripping tape applied I put it all back toether and the fit is nice and snug with no gaps. Can't test it yet, as there is not battery power to the van but it will undoubtedly result in much more air volume to the rear.

View attachment 2742

Next up...the front heater!
How was the condition of the plastics? Break anything
 
I am going camping this weekend and wanted to get some of the things that bugged me "fixed".

So, with help of my girlfriend we sewed some new curtains using some nice grey blackout curtain fabric, some roman shade tape (to add structure to the top and bottom) and then a bunch of RV Designer A102 Large drape carriers to create this...
View attachment 2657

Then I added a simple waterproof switch to turn off the blinding door light from hell.
View attachment 2658
Can now become...
View attachment 2659
So, at night when I open the door I don't blind/wake up the entire campground... :p
I want to add that switch too!!! Nice!
 
Replaced front factory bearings and shocks with Timken bearings and Bilstein shocks. Shocks made a huge difference in how she rides. Bearings replaced because I wanted to check the condition and decided to just replace them while I had them off.

Bearing shock1.jpgBearing shock2.jpgBearing shock3.jpg
 
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Installed Aisin manual hubs and 1/2 of the front dash speakers. The one next to the glove box is giving me fits, even after removing glove box. Charging up cheapo bore-scope to try and help guide my screw driver. BTW- is the top of the stereo bezel just attached w/clips? hub.jpg
Hesitant to pull on it for fear of breaking plastic. Took out the three screws at the bottom. dashbezel.jpg
 
Top of the bezel is just clipped in. You remove the bottom screws (3) and then tilt up from the bottom, not straight out. Your radio or pocket below may have to be removed.
 
Installed Aisin manual hubs and 1/2 of the front dash speakers. The one next to the glove box is giving me fits, even after removing glove box. Charging up cheapo bore-scope to try and help guide my screw driver. BTW- is the top of the stereo bezel just attached w/clips? View attachment 2761
Hesitant to pull on it for fear of breaking plastic. Took out the three screws at the bottom. View attachment 2762
Why do people convert over to the manual hubs? Are the autos just that inefficient and creating that much wear?

I have manual lockers on mine but i also bought it that way.
 
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