natematos
Well-Known Member
This connection was removed around '87/88. Every L300 after it has the piping, but it's not attached to anything.
Delica JB500 Camper
- Thread starter Nulla
- Start date
Nulla
Active Member
I wonder if those brake lines will fit my rig, yes it L300 but it is the truck version. I have not had a chance to look at my brake lines, maybe a future possibility. Just got back from 3 months Baja California, spend a lot of time off road. Getting ready to go to mainland Mexico, my goal is reliability and maybe a little more power. Thx
Nulla
Active Member
“I don’t know what wheels/tires you have on it but cutting down on rotational weight (especially tires) will probably give you more acceleration gains than the majority of engine mods. Not to mention cut your stopping distance in half.” I currently have 235/75 R15 AT just some cheap off brand tires. I am looking to replace them with 235/75 R15 Toyo Open Country (29” in diameter). I am open to suggestion.
I have no plans to modify the intake, I think it is engineered very well.
I will post picture of my inter cooler location later. I am also curious if it will make any difference. My goal is to lower the EGT and engine temp. I travel long range i am trying to keep the engine as efficient and comfortable as possible.
B-Line Performance
Active Member
Betting the fronts are identical. Would need a set of yours in our hands, so we could copy them. If/when you are ready we could work out a deal.
And IDT it is applicable to the truck (JB500)...
Nulla
Active Member
Here is mine i think it is still here see picture. There is an air duck that gets air from the front of the radiator. I think the push fan on my radiator will help with the air intake, it is a very strong fan. Thx
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connorwhite.online
Active Member
Oh the cheapo tires are probably nice and light. They usually save rubber to keep costs down. You may consider a smoother tread unless you’re doing a ton of brutal off-roading. It’ll keep her a little quieter on the highway.
The more headwind you can get on that intercooler, the more effective it’ll be.
I don’t understand why it was removed but at speed the missing intermediary pipe isn't necessary. As fluid dynamics would have it the intake is drawing air from the low pressure system of the duct, not from the cavity below. But yeah it’s not active at low speeds. Would love to know their thinking on that.
That looks like every other L300 after 1988...
I doubt the fan will help... if anything it would be directing air through the radiator and away from the inlet?
The inlet is low enough that water pushed over the air guide and against the radiator can be ingested when wading... it lowers the potential water ingestion level to near axle height. That's probably why the published wading speed is 5km/h max.
A longer intake is effectively the same as using a smaller diameter intake (due to friction losses). The same volume has to move faster which reduces the static pressure (increases dynamic pressure). This can lower the RPM where max torque occurs. But you're really only concerned with length after the filter (last/greatest restriction).
And that pipe has enough hard bends/angles that I'm not sure it has any real benefit at any speed. Obviously, Mitsubishi decided the potential negative (or cost) outweighed any potential benefit (lack of).
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Arnothill
Member
The fridge has a permanently hot heavy gauge wire and an ignition feed running to a relay. My van was rewired before I bought it and I have rewired it since. Now at least I have a wiring diagram.
All my wiring and fuses are under the side bench seat. The ignition feed runs to the fridge and determines whether the habitation battery is charging from the alternator.
There could be a hot live at the CO detector but I doubt if mine is working.
Nulla
Active Member
I finally got my fridge and AC fan working, that heavy duty wire running from the starting battery was intermittent, I replaced it with another wire running from starting battery to the (see picture) two distribution block providing 12v to the fridge and AC. thx
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connorwhite.online
Active Member
Ahhh yeah I guess I hadn’t considered how crucial stream fording was to the Delica’s intended use was until I saw it on the ‘General’ section of the manual. Cold air, cold water, same pipe
.So intake length before obstruction (filter) isn’t as crucial as after obstruction… good to know. I hadn’t considered that as a factor.
Normally, when talking about tuning the intake length it's the individual intake runner lengths that is of concern. The intake runners are the individual pipes (castings) from the intake manifold common inlet/pipe to the individual cylinders... you're not going to affect that w/o fabricating a custom intake manifold.
As long as the flow velocity/qtty/turbulence prior to the inlet manifold isn't a restriction it's not really a concern. But fluid dynamics do contribute to whether that is the case or not.
connorwhite.online
Active Member
Right, that'd be major performance tuning. I guess I'm speaking to the relegated realm of an 'aftermarket air-cleaner'. I was thinking it'd be cool to make a variable intake that opened closer to the air filter at higher RPMs to keep the engine in the apogee of the torque band. Could be as simple as a Hall sensor, and an actuator to push open the housing around the air filter as RPMs increase. Curious about your thoughts here. That 100lb air cleaner is begging to be replaced
.Sorry for hijacking your thread Nulla.
IDT there's much you can do for the turbo motors... as long as it's getting enough air that it can generate the desired boost pressure it makes no real difference (i.e. as long as the inlet/filter isn't a restriction).
There's a lot that is poorly designed about the L300 diesel's intake (corrugated flex hoses, hard 90˚ turns, etc) but it doesn't seem to matter... it's probably all way oversized to compensate. I.e. if a single 1.5" dia exhaust is suitable for a 78hp motor (and it is), then a 1.5" unrestricted inlet is as well (actually oversized).
You may hear that the snorkel/filter canister needs modified (T3's dual outlet) for a highly tuned 4D56T; that's probably because the available L300 snorkels are terrible designs (but still not a problem for a stock motor).
Nulla
Active Member
No worries i am learning, i may have to do a bit of air intake modification at the air filter area to run my inter cooler piping.
Nulla
Active Member
@Growlerbearnz The fuel tank i am adding will be below the OEM fuel tank with a switching valve between the two tank, i have not decide if i am going with an electric switching valve or manual. My question; do you think the injector pump can sufficiently pull the fuel from the second tank? Fuel lines will be same size as the OEM, I am also thinking of adding a second fuel filter with water separator before the OEM fuel filter. I want to avoid any kind of fuel starvation. Suggestions welcome.
During my trip to Baja California, I had to purchase diesel in the village twice that sells Diesel in a 5 gal cans, thus the filters. Thx
The bottom of the tanks on an automatic L300 van are as low as the bottom of the side panels... so as long as your aux tank isn't lower than that, you shouldn't have an issue with the pump's ability to draw.
I can see installing a separate/dedicated water separator prior to the filter, but not really a second fuel filter; because they don't have bypass capability (or it's inadequate?). So the only thing that matters is if the first filter clogs. And two stage filtering doesn't really help either, because the bigger stuff doesn't really contribute to obstructing flow.
It sounds to me like what you want is a fuel polishing system like used in marine applications. That's basically a secondary pump/separator/filter system that cycles the fuel through the tank(s). But then your tanks would need to have an open interconnect or independent secondary systems. By having the two systems in parallel and running simultaneously you reduce the contamination rate of the primary filter by 50% (assuming equal flow rate). And the secondary system could be used to pre-filter the entire tank separately (electric pump/engine off).
Edit: FWIW, these vehicles were designed to be run in third world conditions... you'll probably be all right with just regular maintenance. The fuel filter schedule for european countries (EN590 or equivalent fuel standards) is inspect/drain at 30k, and replace at 60k. The schedule for other countries is replace @ 30k, inspect/drain more frequently.
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actionman
Member
And once you do, please let me know, too! I'm not that keen on sending my lines abroad, but if compatibility is confirmed, I'll order the full set myself.
The Bosch VE pump can lift fuel vertically about a metre.
If your injection pump is higher than a metre from the bottom of your fuel tank it could start to starve, but only when it's maxed out running at full power. If you regularly drive long distances at 4500rpm with your foot to the floor then fuel starvation is the least of your worries.
If it's less than a metre above the tank, then you have nothing to worry about.