Delica JB500 Camper

Growlerbearnz said:
When it's cranking is it trying to start? Making the occasional cough and puff of smoke? Or is it just cranking?

When you bled the injectors, was the fuel squirting/gushing out as you cranked the engine? Bleeding the injectors should be messy, if it's just dribbling then your injection pump might not be supplying fuel.
Check the cutoff solenoid on the injector pump, make sure it has power and goes "click" when power is applied/ignition turned on. (I'm thinking you might have disconnected it while working on the engine).

Try bleeding the fuel filter (open the 10mm bolt 2 turns, pump the black knob until fuel gushes out the bolt, then close the bolt again), then pumping the black knob about 20 times: that'll pump fuel into and through the injection pump.

Your timing looks good from what I can see in the photos.
Click to expand...

It is cranking and feels like it want to start but not coughing of smoke, so maybe it is just cranking.

When I bleed the 4 injectors squirts of fuel was shooting out, there was pressure. As soon a 2 or 3 squirt of fuel came out I shut the nut off. Should I be bleeding more?

Can you please tell me where the shut off solenoid is?

I read and followed your thread on bleeding the fuel filter, also read you thread on when the engine won't start. but I can bleed the fuel filter and injectors again.

I followed the manual instruction and the Delica.ca thread I checked alignment of timing multiple times, manually turn the engine multiple times and made sure everything was lining up. I disconnected the battery while turning the engine manually. as you can see by the pictures I even marked the old timing belt so that I can install the new timing belt in the same way, also everything is torque down per manual.

There is an oil leak on the alternator which I will address before cranking it up again. I wonder if there is a sensor on this engine that senses low engine oil pressure so it won't start.

I bought a new battery with 825 cranking amp, I will measure voltage of the glow plug bar again with this new battery.

thank you
 
There are no sensors that prevent starting. In normal operation if the ignition is on the solenoid is on, and the engine will try to start if the starter motor operates.

It sounds like you have fuel at the injectors, so the cutoff solenoid is probably working. If it didn't get any power there would be very little fuel at the injectors. If you didn't touch the injectors or fuel filter then they shouldn't really need bleeding.

Here's a post from another "wont start" thread:

"If there's no fuel at the injectors when cranking, it's probably the fuel cutoff solenoid. Our engines are entirely mechanical, the only way to stop them is to physically shut off the fuel supply, which is done by the fuel shutoff solenoid (in red):

31336DSC06325.jpg



When the ignition is turned to ON the solenoid should have +12V power and make a click. The solenoid needs power to allow fuel to pass into the injection pump.

If it doesn't have +12V, try using a jumper lead to apply power directly to it from the battery- if the engine then starts, you have a wiring fault (probably the rectangualr connector on top of the IP, the wires get brittle and break internally)

If it has power but doesn't click, you'll need to remove it. It has a rubber tip that can get jammed, or it might just be burnt out."
 
Growlerbearnz said:
There are no sensors that prevent starting. In normal operation if the ignition is on the solenoid is on, and the engine will try to start if the starter motor operates.

It sounds like you have fuel at the injectors, so the cutoff solenoid is probably working. If it didn't get any power there would be very little fuel at the injectors. If you didn't touch the injectors or fuel filter then they shouldn't really need bleeding.

Here's a post from another "wont start" thread:

"If there's no fuel at the injectors when cranking, it's probably the fuel cutoff solenoid. Our engines are entirely mechanical, the only way to stop them is to physically shut off the fuel supply, which is done by the fuel shutoff solenoid (in red):

31336DSC06325.jpg



When the ignition is turned to ON the solenoid should have +12V power and make a click. The solenoid needs power to allow fuel to pass into the injection pump.

If it doesn't have +12V, try using a jumper lead to apply power directly to it from the battery- if the engine then starts, you have a wiring fault (probably the rectangualr connector on top of the IP, the wires get brittle and break internally)

If it has power but doesn't click, you'll need to remove it. It has a rubber tip that can get jammed, or it might just be burnt out."
Click to expand...

I checked power of the solenoid, the highest it got was 0.35v and goes up and down to 0.13v. Also I don't hear it clicking. But I do get fuel at the injectors, I know that because when I bleed the injectors fuel was shooting up with pressure. I noticed a vacuum line in the back of the IP, does vacuum plays a role in starting and turning off the engine. I ask this because I replaced my faulty alternator for a Korean made alternator and the vacuum line connections are different. The Korean alternator has two point to connect the vacuum line, my OEM alternator the vacuum lines are "T" into one line, I took the "T" out and connected both lines to each of the vacuum line connection of the Korean alternator.

What I hear clicking is this solenoid see picture, I get 12v plus when ignition is on. Is this the glow plug solenoid?

I will read up on the link you send.

Thanks
solenoid?.jpg
 
Nulla said:
I checked power of the solenoid, the highest it got was 0.35v and goes up and down to 0.13v. Also I don't hear it clicking. But I do get fuel at the injectors, I know that because when I bleed the injectors fuel was shooting up with pressure. I noticed a vacuum line in the back of the IP, does vacuum plays a role in starting and turning off the engine. I ask this because I replaced my faulty alternator for a Korean made alternator and the vacuum line connections are different. The Korean alternator has two point to connect the vacuum line, my OEM alternator the vacuum lines are "T" into one line, I took the "T" out and connected both lines to each of the vacuum line connection of the Korean alternator.

What I hear clicking is this solenoid see picture, I get 12v plus when ignition is on. Is this the glow plug solenoid?

I will read up on the link you send.

Thanks
View attachment 8307
Click to expand...
That is the glow plug solenoid.
 
Growlerbearnz said:
There are no sensors that prevent starting. In normal operation if the ignition is on the solenoid is on, and the engine will try to start if the starter motor operates.

It sounds like you have fuel at the injectors, so the cutoff solenoid is probably working. If it didn't get any power there would be very little fuel at the injectors. If you didn't touch the injectors or fuel filter then they shouldn't really need bleeding.

Here's a post from another "wont start" thread:

"If there's no fuel at the injectors when cranking, it's probably the fuel cutoff solenoid. Our engines are entirely mechanical, the only way to stop them is to physically shut off the fuel supply, which is done by the fuel shutoff solenoid (in red):

31336DSC06325.jpg



When the ignition is turned to ON the solenoid should have +12V power and make a click. The solenoid needs power to allow fuel to pass into the injection pump.

If it doesn't have +12V, try using a jumper lead to apply power directly to it from the battery- if the engine then starts, you have a wiring fault (probably the rectangualr connector on top of the IP, the wires get brittle and break internally)

If it has power but doesn't click, you'll need to remove it. It has a rubber tip that can get jammed, or it might just be burnt out."
Click to expand...
I used a jumper wire and applied 12v directly to the cut off solenoid, this time I heard the solenoid click when I applied the power, but still no start.
 
for a peace of mind about the timing marks here are some pictures of the alignments. the tapes on the camshaft and the IP sprocket are the placement of the old timing belt, I read on this forum that when you are reinstalling a timing belt you would do this so that the old timing belt is placed on the same place same tooth it was sitting on. I installed a new timing belt but I copied the placement of the old timing belt partly to avoid the IP sprocket turning when the tensioner is released. I then disconnected the battery and turned it a number of times to make sure they are still lining up. also to remove the tape I used to mark the belt and the sprockets. I wanted to settle question I had about the alignment, for my own peace of mind.

pplplacementimingline1.jpegtimingline2.jpeg
 
Those timing marks look perfect.

My next suggestion was going to be applying 12V directly to the cutoff solenoid, but you already did that.

The next step is to manually power the glow plugs while the cutoff solenoid is powered with 12V.
-Connect the cutoff solenoid to 12V.
-Using a set of jumper leads, connect the positive lead to the positive terminal, and prepare to connect the other end of the positive lead to the glow plug bus bar for 5 seconds. (Ignore the negative side of the jumper leads). Be very careful not to let the positive clamp of the jumper lead touch the engine, only the glow plug bus bar. Maybe cover the rocker cover with a cloth just as a bit of insurance.
-Connect the positive clamp to the bus bar for 5 seconds, and then disconnect and immediately crank the engine (you will need an assistant for this).

The engine should start. If the engine now starts you probably have a bad connection near the battery, probably one of the fusible links has become unplugged.

Could you share a good photo of your injection pump and wiring connections, and your battery compartment? I want to see if everything's connected normally.
 
Growlerbearnz said:
Those timing marks look perfect.

My next suggestion was going to be applying 12V directly to the cutoff solenoid, but you already did that.

The next step is to manually power the glow plugs while the cutoff solenoid is powered with 12V.
-Connect the cutoff solenoid to 12V.
-Using a set of jumper leads, connect the positive lead to the positive terminal, and prepare to connect the other end of the positive lead to the glow plug bus bar for 5 seconds. (Ignore the negative side of the jumper leads). Be very careful not to let the positive clamp of the jumper lead touch the engine, only the glow plug bus bar. Maybe cover the rocker cover with a cloth just as a bit of insurance.
-Connect the positive clamp to the bus bar for 5 seconds, and then disconnect and immediately crank the engine (you will need an assistant for this).

The engine should start. If the engine now starts you probably have a bad connection near the battery, probably one of the fusible links has become unplugged.

Could you share a good photo of your injection pump and wiring connections, and your battery compartment? I want to see if everything's connected normally.
Click to expand...

I did all the above except connecting the glow plug bar for 5 second, I was afraid it might fry my glow plugs, tomorrow I can do that.

I have a question that was not covered in the manual or thread that I read about timing alignment; when all the four "pulleys" are align what should be the alignment of the crankshaft pulley to timing light alignment? pls see picture below I might not be describing this correctly. Should it be at Top
Dead Center? The middle line?

Dea Dtdc.jpg
 
Here are pictures of my IP as requested by Growlerbearnz. Can you also tell me where I can find the manual on how to time the injector pump. thank you.
 

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To confirm timing I open it up to see if the timing is matching up with the outside timing mark with the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt marks. see picture below. I found that all the "4 pulley" and timing mark on the lower cover all lines up at Top Dead Center which is the first line on
mark.

Now engine tries to starts but there is a loud banging noise. It sounds to me like the timing is advance, where the combustion is happening at Top Dead Center or a little before. I am looking for the manual on the Injector Pump to figure out the timing. I looked at the shop manual but could not find it, pls share the link if you know where it is. thx

the timing mark.jpg
 
Nulla said:
I have a question that was not covered in the manual or thread that I read about timing alignment; when all the four "pulleys" are align what should be the alignment of the crankshaft pulley to timing light alignment? pls see picture below I might not be describing this correctly. Should it be at Top
Dead Center? The middle line?
Click to expand...
It should be aligned to the "T" mark when the cam and IP sprockets are both aligned. Basically that's where you start: turn the crankshaft until it's on the "T" mark, then check the cam and IP sprockets are correct.


Nulla said:
Can you also tell me where I can find the manual on how to time the injector pump.
Click to expand...
Section 11_Engine of the full workshop manual, page 83 shows how to set the timing on the injection pump.
Though the timing will only have changed if you removed the IP. Timing isn't all that critical anyway: as long as the IP's sprocket timing mark lines up when the crank pulley is on "T" then the timing should be ok. It's easy to let the IP slip a tooth when installing the belt though, the IP wants to spring around to the wrong position.

Nulla said:
To confirm timing I open it up to see if the timing is matching up with the outside timing mark with the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt marks. see picture below. I found that all the "4 pulley" and timing mark on the lower cover all lines up at Top Dead Center which is the first line on
mark.
Now engine tries to starts but there is a loud banging noise.
Click to expand...

Well this is all very odd and probably quite frustrating for you!
If:
-the crank pulley is on T and
-the cam and IP sprockets are lined up with their marks and
-there's fuel at the injectors and
-the glow plugs are hot
...then the engine should start.

I would remove the rocker cover and top belt cover, and turn the engine *by hand* to confirm that the rockers move as they should, and that the marks line up again. I know you've done it a million times by now but...
 
Growlerbearnz said:
It should be aligned to the "T" mark when the cam and IP sprockets are both aligned. Basically that's where you start: turn the crankshaft until it's on the "T" mark, then check the cam and IP sprockets are correct.



Section 11_Engine of the full workshop manual, page 83 shows how to set the timing on the injection pump.
Though the timing will only have changed if you removed the IP. Timing isn't all that critical anyway: as long as the IP's sprocket timing mark lines up when the crank pulley is on "T" then the timing should be ok. It's easy to let the IP slip a tooth when installing the belt though, the IP wants to spring around to the wrong position.



Well this is all very odd and probably quite frustrating for you!
If:
-the crank pulley is on T and
-the cam and IP sprockets are lined up with their marks and
-there's fuel at the injectors and
-the glow plugs are hot
...then the engine should start.

I would remove the rocker cover and top belt cover, and turn the engine *by hand* to confirm that the rockers move as they should, and that the marks line up again. I know you've done it a million times by now but...
Click to expand...

Mystery solved!!!! Broken 2 exhaust Rocker Arm. I am in Los Angeles where can I get these rocker arm ASAP the OEM part# is MD307725. I am actually happy that the mystery is solve. Looking forward to the next one71DB90A2-DA0A-49D3-B30C-990E79FB427C.jpeg71DB90A2-DA0A-49D3-B30C-990E79FB427C.jpeg
 
Nulla said:
I don’t have an old 4d56
Click to expand...
Nah, he's asking @InstrumentOfPeace if *he* has any leftover parts he can send to you.

Broken rockers definitely explains the lack of go!

Looks like the crankshaft might have been turned while there was no timing belt installed? If there's no timing belt you must not rotate the crankshaft from TDC.

You should remove, wash with solvent, and closely inspect the rest of the rockers, checking for cracks, just in case there are others that are waiting to fail.

When you swap the rockers out you'll have to use a torque wrench to tighten the rocker shaft bolts (the ones with "10" in your picture). As the bolts tighten pay attention to how they feel. If one (or two) feel squishy as they tighten, like you're screwing them into cheese, then the threads in the head might have stripped out from the impact that broke the rockers. The threads can be easily and cheaply repaired in place using a heli-coil repair.
 
sck_nogas said:
You are BOTH in Los Angeles area, so it's not that far of a reach. Since I'm in San Diego and recently played with my rockers, I could also help if timing is right.
Click to expand...
Oh no, my 4D56 is sitting in San Luis Obispo. Nulla is gonna call me when he's free to take a ride up to pull whatever he wants off of it.
 
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